MK2 PEI bed problem  

Re: MK2 PEI bed problem

Especially with ABS...

Re: MK2 PEI bed problem

Hi Selim

Your problem will most likely be one or more of these:

1. Bed temperature
2. Calibration
3. First layer height.

Let me explain further...

1. Bed temperature. I found that printing PLA at 50 or 55 degrees was not quite sufficient and now use 60 degrees, even for small parts. Having set the bed to 60 degrees, after five minutes, I measured the bed and it was more consistent across the bed than the Mk1, but the average temperature of the top of the bed was only 55 degrees.

2. Calibration. I finally resolved this one using feeler gauges, but a sheet of copy paper folded in half will suffice.
Remove the filament and with the printer heated and up to temps for a couple of minutes, wipe nozzle to remove any excess plastic.
Align the Z axis; move Z up to the stops at both sides.
Run "Calibrate Z" ensuring that the bed does not get pushed down at any point - if it does, then you may need to adjust the probe position.
At this point, do not move the extruder.
Use the folded paper (which should be about 0.2mm thick) to slide between nozzle and bed. The paper should be a tightish fit (this is the point I use the 0.2mm feeler).
Use the "Live Adjust" to tweak the nozzle gap. (see note below)
Remove paper and use "Auto Home" to re-home the printer and check again with the paper; it should now be OK.

3. First layer height. Ensure the slicer is set to print a first layer height of at least 0.2mm

NOTE: I found that using "Live Adjust" did not work for me, so I have that set to 0.000 and have adjusted the probe to give me a nozzle gap of 0.18mm.

Hope this helps!

Peter

Re: MK2 PEI bed problem

1. Bed temperature
2. Calibration
3. First layer height.
4. Bed not clean enough.

Even one single finger tap on bed means that first layer won't stick on the bed at that spot. Bed must be carefully degreased before printing. I use clean paper tissue and pure alcohol.

Re: MK2 PEI bed problem

Ha!

David, I just remembered that one as well... Came back to edit that into my post, but I won't bother now...

Peter

Re: MK2 PEI bed problem

Thank you PJR.
I will try them.
I also always using 60 degrees for PLA cause 55 is not enough for sure.
My bed is always clean. I always wipe it with %50 alcohol solution so this is not the problem.
I also have a Lulzbot mini with PEI sheet but believe me their PEI sheet is completely different than any other PEI sheets. I dont know why.
Anyways thanks for the advice and help 🙂

Re: MK2 PEI bed problem

I found that 65 degrees work on PLA so basically you have to add 5 degrees more to your regular heated bed temp.
Wheeww what a great relief. 🙂

Re: MK2 PEI bed problem

I used glue stick on a print and now cannot get it off of the bed. It is the tree frog and tried using a spatula but do not want to break the toes on the frog. Any suggestions?

Re: MK2 PEI bed problem

Hi Todd,

If it was an older i3 with a glass build plate, I would say just take the glass build plate off and go soak it in some warm water and it will soften the glue. Maybe if you get a wash cloth or rag damp with warm water and wrap it around the frog on the build plate and let it sit for a while. The moisture may start to soften the glue around the edges of the frog and allow you to get a start. You will likely also want to put another dry towel over/around that so that any extra water/moisture doesn't run off the build plate into the printer or onto the heating element.

Good luck!

Roger

Re: MK2 PEI bed problem

if its the mk2 try heating the bed to soften the glue