I can literally watch my ASA print warp after removing it
RE: I can literally watch my ASA print warp after removing it
I’m trying to print this model. It takes up most of the build plate of my XL and it’s about 10mm thick. I’m using glue stick and I have the Prusa enclosure. I pulled it off and it was perfectly flat. As I was changing filament and loading my next print it warped. I've had the cooling fans both on and off. I upped the bed temp. Not sure what to do next. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
RE: I can literally watch my ASA print warp after removing it
Looks like it adhered to the bed quite well during the printing, so that’s good.
Just guessing here. Maybe leave it on the bed until after it cools? Or, if you had flipped it over after you removed it, would it have warped the other way?
MK4S/MMU3
RE: I can literally watch my ASA print warp after removing it
I’ve had them finish in the middle of the night so they’ve had a chance to cool slowly. I was thinking about trying solid infill thinking maybe it would cool more gradually.
RE: I can literally watch my ASA print warp after removing it
Could you put a heavy weight on it while it cools? Perhaps remove the build plate from the printer with the print still attached, place it somewhere flat and put a large flat weight on top?
RE: I can literally watch my ASA print warp after removing it
I’ll give it a try on the next one.
You can try annealing, with mostly flat parts it often works well:
Constrain the part (perhaps by loading it with weights) and put it into an accurate oven or other heater, raise the temperature to the glass transition temperature of the material (manufacturer's data sheet) and keep it there for long enough to heat all the way through. Allow to cool slowly, when cool remove the constraints.
Afterwards measure the part carefully as sometimes resolving the warping stresses can resize the part - this is another occasion where calibrating any changes back into the original CAD may be worthwhile.
Cheerio,
RE: I can literally watch my ASA print warp after removing it
You can try annealing, with mostly flat parts it often works well:
Constrain the part (perhaps by loading it with weights) and put it into an accurate oven or other heater, raise the temperature to the glass transition temperature of the material (manufacturer's data sheet) and keep it there for long enough to heat all the way through. Allow to cool slowly, when cool remove the constraints.
Afterwards measure the part carefully as sometimes resolving the warping stresses can resize the part - this is another occasion where calibrating any changes back into the original CAD may be worthwhile.
Cheerio,
This would be my recommendation.
RE: I can literally watch my ASA print warp after removing it
If you don’t have an oven for that you can also use a heatgun and some clamps. Just be careful not to overheat the part and selectively.
RE:
Haven’t tried the annealing but I redesigned the part to be slid in and not screwed together. I didn’t mention this but, you can see it in the pictures, the edges print well. It lifts in the middle. The top which had been printing great (basically a 10mm thick wall that takes up most of the XL build plate) was a disaster. I upped the infill to 100% just to see if maybe it would cool more evenly. The part that is the subject of the post (the base) looks great when the print finishes but then you can hold it in hand and watch it warp. This time I removed it, thought I was home free, and it started warping. I put it in the sink and ran cold water over it while pushing down of the middle. That was working and it didn’t warp as much. So the annealing and the top pressure may be something. I’m on hunt now for a cheap used (for powder coating and now annealing 3D prints) oven so I can try annealing the base. Thanks for all the replies.
I have not tried this but your post made me think ...
For PLA and perhaps PETG it should be possible to anneal in hot water; it's certainly worth trying with PLA, a flat bottomed bowl of water at about 65°C, a weight, and allow the water to cool with the part.
Cheerio,
OK, I have now tested PLA and it seems to work - so ASA is worth testing with boiling water.
Cheerio,