Changing the Defaults for Input Shaping  

RE: Changing the Defaults for Input Shaping

Hello. I don't know but I tried to run a ringing tower to tune the input shaper as described on the Marlin website. I think M593 commands are locked, because I see no change in layers.

If somebody from Prusa or more advanced user can answer I would appreciate.

I run a modified X carriage: 3 vents for printing, sherpa extruder. The  mass isn't the same than original so normally the resonance frequency differs from stock.

RE: Changing the Defaults for Input Shaping

You can change them in the settings of the Printer. I am running my printer right now so I can't tell the exakt steps inside the printer but they are there. You can choose different algoritms.

RE: Changing the Defaults for Input Shaping

Nope.

They are grey.

Do you have cheat code?

RE:

Posted by: @yoann-hervouet

Nope.

They are grey.

Do you have cheat code?

No I dont'. I was just wrong. I found them in the settings on the printer but they weren't changable. I just thought they were.

But according to the Release Notes of the 5.1.0 firmware it should follow the same settings for Input Shaping as the MK4. They even linked to the Release notes for the Mk4 were the codes is to change the Input Shaping settings.
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v5.0.0-alpha1

RE: Changing the Defaults for Input Shaping

I'm on the same boat as i changed my printer to a Mini Bear with an LGX extruder. This means my IS settings would be closer to the MK than Mini.
I'm not sure where the "T" comes from, since it's not described on the Marlin site, but it is in use with the Mk4. 

Posted by: @david-stockdale

I am trying to change my default values for my input shaping.  First I can not see a way to change them from the display.  So I have added M593 X T2 F39.9 ; Input Shaper XM, and M593 Y T2 F32.1 ; Input Shaper Y, to the end of my start GCode.  When you run the print and use the screen to check the values after the print starts, it still shows the default.  Has anyone else tried changing theirs?

RE:

Found it

T values:
0:ZV, 1:ZVD, 2:MZV, 3:EI, 4:2HUMP_EI, and 5:3HUMP_EI. Default value is 0:ZV.

So "T2" stands for MZV

RE:

I just did a M593 X F123

Then a M593 which gave this result:
echo:axis X type=MZV freq=123 damp=0.100000 vr=20.000000
echo:axis Y type=MZV freq=32.799999 damp=0.100000 vr=20.000000

Seems to work fine.

These are the default values on my Mini:
echo:axis X type=MZV freq=118.199997 damp=0.100000 vr=20.000000
echo:axis Y type=MZV freq=32.799999 damp=0.100000 vr=20.000000

Also, MZV seems the default....

RE: Changing the Defaults for Input Shaping

I just printed a ringing tower with increasing frequences for each layer.
Printed fine, but i find it hard to find the right spot.
Picked 2 and put them in my start gcode.
It seems to work with my Mini Bear

RE: Changing the Defaults for Input Shaping

On second look, i don't think changing the frequency did do much. 
Turning it on or off works fine, but setting a different frequency not.

RE: Changing the Defaults for Input Shaping

Hi, I converted my mini to a mini bear and printed as usual before switching to firmware 5.1 and tested the input shaper, I can't get a good print to work when using the input shaper, we make mistakes in connecting the perimeter and in the corners, please don't you have a functional profile for the prusa slicer for mini bear with inputshaper?

RE: Changing the Defaults for Input Shaping

Is there an easy way to switch-off the input shaper? Just to compare and see any difference (for the better or the worse). I got some unusual bad print results that I could not explain. A normal 45° overhang got really messed up so that I had to stop the print. I tried some 6 prints with different settings and also used different petg-materials but nothing improved this simple overhang print. Quite unnerving. The same print on my Mk3s printed just fine. Just notice the up-curling (attached picture) and the ravaged overhang structure. The nozzle was pressing the upcurled part down on every pass and it elastically feathered up after the nozzle passed. I've not seen anything like this. I used the standard Prusa configuration and the (different) petg-filaments where as dry as possible. The same materials printed flawless on my MK3. I updated PrusaSlicer 2.7.1+win64 just before this print. I use the E3d's Revo Micro for more than a year now and never had any problems with it. Other prints without overhang seem to be ok.