Recommended MatterHackers Build PLA settings  

RE: Recommended MatterHackers Build PLA settings

No idea on that filament, 

I have recently had two difficult PLA filaments, 

One wanted to print hot, and jammed the extruder at lower (More normal temperatures)
the other caused strings like crazy and wanted to print cooler than normal
you can see some of the strings over the red areas, this was printed at 190 which was still too hot... 

In both instances I used Temperature towers to sort the issue out, 

A temperature tower typically starts printing at a higher than normal temperature and prints a test form, then it reduces temperature and repeats the form, and so on until either the temperature tower completes or the printer stops printing because the temperature has got too cool
there are examples on Prusa Printers, for PLA and PETG. Note if a PLA Print is rubbish at the PLA temperatures, try the PETG tower, yout PLA May need higher than normal temperatures...

be aware that If you slice the models yourself, you will have to ensure the temperature changes occur at the correct levels. 
I code in a command to move the extruder off the model, then set the new temperature and instruct the printer to wait for that temperature to stabilise, before returning to the model, otherwise your temperature tower has different results as the temperature changes from the last value to the next value... 
regards Joan

RE: Recommended MatterHackers Build PLA settings

Posted by: @mochas-workshop

So I recently gotten 2 rolls of MH build series PLA filament for the first time but every time the extruder clogged and the gears kept on clogging up, I'm trying to find the correct settings but I can't. Any filament setting recommendations for this?

I have MatterHacker Build series PLA and it does require some tuning. I also got some under extrusion and clogging with it. I assume you've already clear the clog and move the heater block up per step 6 in this? https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mini_112011

I currently have the filament setting as 215C/60C at first layer, and 210/60 other layers. Density at 1.25 g/cm2, and extrusion multiplier at 1.01. You should print your own calibration cubes to determine the extrusion multiplier though since each spool may be slight different.

I only get very minor stringing issue at these temperatures. I have tried lowered to 205 and while the stringing is gone completely, I got random under extrusion in return, so 210 seems to be a good compromise.

RE: Recommended MatterHackers Build PLA settings

I printed a spool of MH Build series earlier this year. MH Build wasn't particularly notable in my experience.  If filament is getting chewed up in the extruder gears, it most likely stopped feeding and the gears shredded the stuck bit until they didn't engage anymore. I'd try:

1. Check the filament feed path for any friction. If the filament got stuck on the feed down, the extruder may simply not have been able to pull it in. (Seems obvious, but one poster had a filament cleaner attached that had become stuck.)
2. Check your extruder idler gear and be sure it rotates freely.
3. Check your extruder tension and make sure it's not too tight.
4. Decrease cooling. 100% may be too much. Make sure your fan duct is not blowing on the heater block and is directed towards the nozzle. Consider a silicone sock to reduce fan impact on the heater block temp. Decreasing cooling will improve flow while not adding more heat that you then just try to blow away.
5. Increase temperature. As Joan notes, some cheaper filaments do better with a bit more heat. I don't recall MH Build specifically, but I bump temps 5-10C if I encounter flow issues with a new filament. 
6. Slow down. Some filaments are thicker than others and simply slowing down, especially fast infill speeds, can help.

RE: Recommended MatterHackers Build PLA settings

Hello All

I am interested to read the above posts. Right now I am trawling the forum to narrow down and fix my printing issues. I have a MK3S that I built myself (which has greatly helped my understanding of the whole machine and made it easy for me to go back in and try and deal wth this issue(s)).

In short, after a perfectly working machine, i found it nearly impossible to build anything. I then encountered a full blockage - and then another which meant getting the heatbreak out and cleaned. I have also taken up the slack in the X-axis belt. After some reading in here, I have concluded my experiments with PLA, then PETG, then ASA and back to PLA has left sufficienet residue to cause my blockages. Mechanically, i am confident the machine is in good shape, which brings me to me latest thinking...

I am doing a job right now using PLA (Prusament). The stringing has been awful at 215 degrees (bed at 60 - all other parameters as per the default Slicr settings). This morning I have gotten up to a failed build due to a crash/impact - the blob was clear to see. I have just started another build and I have the nozzle at 205 degrees...this seems to be working, but I am now having to babysit the machine :-/

Reading above, it seems the filament can vary quite a lot - I have kinda just worked that out myself, but it is nice to have it confirmed. But I have also wondered if I am wrestling with a faulty sensor (thermistor maybe? - tho the display seems to show a steady temperature?).

With regard to oozing at the nozzle, if i leave the the temp at the default 215 degrees for PLA, it oozes and strings terribly - impossible to build with. But at 205 degrees, the oozing continues to a much lesser extent and the stringing has mostly gone. Can I reduce it further? Will that impact on layer adhesion? Can I adjust anything else like feed speed or volume ratio to counter the lower temperature?

Many thanks - apologies for the long post, I feel like i'm on bit of a journey trying to fix this machine!

RE: Recommended MatterHackers Build PLA settings

@slipperyeel

Be careful 😀 This is a thread about the Prusa Mini, not the Mk 3, whilst many of the principles are the same, the 'best' parameters may differ due to the different designs of the printers (Mini is a bowden setup and the Mk 3 is direct drive).

RE: Recommended MatterHackers Build PLA settings

Gordon W, thanks for the clarification, I saw your answer in time)

Gentley