PEI sheet damaged with first print  

RE: PEI sheet damaged with first print

I believe all PEI is sourced from the same huge petrochemical conglomerate. As such, I wouldn't expect a huge variability in quality. Same for the 3M adhesive. If anything, there might be variables in the final application process. I know my replacement sheet sure didn't go down as smoothly as the original, and even some originals show corrosion under the PEI. Ultimately, it doesn't  matter since Prusa declares the sheets -- textured or smooth -- to be consumables, even if defective out of the package. Somebody in the EU might be able to challenge them on this. 

RE: PEI sheet damaged with first print

@charles-h13

It’s clearly a product of the normal changes that happen in the manufacturing processes. If you look at the info on the smooth PEI coated sheet on the Prusa store, it does say not to use IPA before printing PETG and a release agent may be needed. I’ve probably just been getting lucky with my old sheet. I used it so much that I started using glue sticks and the best way to clean that off is with soap and water (or just water). When I was heavily printing PETG I was using less alcohol and a lot of glue. It makes sense that the glue could actually protect the PEI coating. 

Besides, this is just another reason to get a textured sheet. I’ve only been contemplating it for over a year. Now that I have a Mini with both kinds of sheets I’ve actually been able to try the textured sheet.

RE: PEI sheet damaged with first print

Again, another plug for the Layerneer Bed Weld.

I'm currently running some PETg prints (white Hatchbox) and, after cooling, they pop off fairly easily.

RE: PEI sheet damaged with first print

My most recent solution to too much sticking with PETG is to make a slurry of mixed Elmer's washable school glue, disappearing purple and blue Windex. I apply some glue to the bed, then spray on some Windex and use a Kimwipe to mix them together and spread them out over the whole build plate evenly. Then I allow it to dry without wiping it off.

The Ear Savers, printed out of PETG, are thin with a large surface area and hard to get off the bed, especially an older or worn bed. With Windex alone, about half would get broken coming off the bed.  So far with the glue/Windex mixture, all have come off cleanly.

Regards,

Mark

RE: PEI sheet damaged with first print

Posted by: @marklgoldberg

Elmer's washable school glue, disappearing purple

Hmmmm ... This sounds like it's a similar formula to that of the 'disappearing purple' glue sticks that Mika3D includes with some of their filament.

RE: PEI sheet damaged with first print

@jsw

The glue alone is thick and is hard to apply evenly in a thin coat. The mixture of the glue and Windex is wet and thin. That and the purple color make it pretty easy to spread it out into an even thin coat that doesn't seem to affect the Z height adjustment.

Regards,

Mark

RE: PEI sheet damaged with first print

@jsw

Shhh! They are gonna sell out again if you keep operating as a pusher for Layerneer Bed Weld.  

Using damaged PEI sheet from the other side

Is there a way to still use the PEI sheet from the other side? Like covering the naked glue layer with something

sheet damage

We have nearly all damaged a sheet.  If not, it will happen.  I have one that is so screwed up, I reserve it for new filament testing.  

Using damaged PEI sheet from the other side

I mean if the hole (a small one, like 1 cm square) can be safely covered with something to prevent the glue contacting the head bed and flip the sheet to use the other not damaged side. There are two usable sides. Does damaging one side make the whole sheet unusable (apart from testing new filaments)?