[Solved] Broken after not even a day  

RE: Solved it

So, the reason for this was: The filament crawled into an empty area in between the PTFE tube, something like a groove. Once cold, it was impossible for the filament to move in either direction because it locked itself into position

I am not sure whether this is a design flaw or if the screw was not tightened properly or if the PTFE tube is too short.

But at least I know now what to do to heal it. Takes two minutes.

I think you need to disassemble hotend and check inside heatbreak -it should be perfectly clean inside. If you notice even a tiny amount of filament inside, it means hotend wasn't assembled properly.
And why didn't that happen with PLA? Because as we raise the temperatures, imperfections come to surface -is one of the reasons why PLA is so popular.

Contact support

Posted by: @apple-1

[...] What do I do now?

Be glad you paid a few bucks extra for a printer with support. Log in to the online store and contact support via chat. They are very good and will work through this with you. You paid for it, use it!

FWIW - This isn't a major problem, but it can be intimidating the first time it happens. Stay calm and work through it. You'll be ready for next time. Good luck!

Thanks

Thanks for your support to all of you.

All seems in order. I am printing now Benchy on PETG and so far it looks very good. 

I was a bit doubtful because my calibration of the first layer is at -1.900 which I though compared very much to the numbers I saw online. But it all looks good.

Interesting, though: When a print starts and the first line before the real thing is printed on the one end of the base plate, that line is approx. double the width of everything that prints afterward. I assume this is normal behavior as the prints seem to come out very, very nicely.

Armin

As long you get good first layer, any Z-offset value is good. If you'd feel more comfortable with value that's not that much on the limit, then move SuperPINDA a little up (max 0.5mm!) -then you'll have good 1st layer at about -1.4 Z-offset.
That "fat" first line on the edge is supposed to be that way -no need to worry about.

If you're close to -2, I would reposition the PINDA higher.

The Super PINDA should have about 1.5 mm distance between nozzle and SPINDA, so that you’re around -1 when your Live Z is correct.

Instructions for adjusting the PINDA are in Step 16 of https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-superpinda-mini-mini_179912  

I put this little helper on Prusaprinters.org to help position the SPINDA: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/57192. Works better than zip ties or credit cards, which have less well-defined heights.

Thanks!

Thanks for that! I will try your method today, because I really do believe that the sensor is too high and it never can hurt to get familiar with some procedures. Will write back later how it went. Printing your tool right now …

BTW: Your link did not work for me (it seems the forum software adds some parameters to links and the prusa website trips over them. The Link opens as

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/57192.#_ga=2.46593191.129294552.1635279972-1483798579.1634546895

where it should only read as https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/57192

The Google Analytics (?) parameters make the link misunderstood by the prusa website. 

Best

Armin

RE: Pumpkin-ready

Your method worked nicely. Z is now -1,3 and the rectangle is completely filled with no holes at all. I am now finetuning printing pumpkins for my daughter‘s Halloween party …

Glad to hear it worked. Sorry for the messed up link. Don't know how that happened. 

One last thing

Am I correct to assume that the Live-Z adjustment only affect the very first layer, i.e. a change of the Z-adjustment in the middle of the print does not do anything?

I am asking because my initial calibration of Z-axis now shows a totally solid area and I wonder if Live-Z-adjustment will "squeeze" more or less the following layers on top of the previous ones? 

The height of the next layers is defined by your chosen layer height. 

See also @bobstro's explanation in an older thread:

It's important to realize that Live-Z only impacts your 1st layer. You are setting the zero position for the nozzle above the print surface, the initial gap. After the 1st layer, every other layer is adjusted upwards from that level by your specified layer height. This means that adjusting Live-Z after the 1st layer won't affect other layers other than problems if the part becomes detached due to poor adhesion.

https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/everything-prints-good-except-first-layer/

Production on full speed

Halloween production at full speed now – thanks to the community: