Why I'm using PC Blend as my "go to" filament
Prusament PC Blend has become my first choice for most of my functional prints. Not because I'm ignoring easier filaments like PCTG etc, but because the properties justify the slightly higher print temperature (and price) once you have a working profile dialed-in.
I've collected a lot of different filament types: PETG, PCTG, ASA, PA, PPA etc and each seems to have it's place. Most of my functional prints get banged up a lot and are often near heat sources. PC Blend ticks off all the boxes for: heat resistance, impact resistance and dimensional accuracy. PETG just doesn't hold up to abuse and ASA has layer adhesion issues, doesn't do well around solvents and seems less consistent under load. Then you have PA and PPA (especially PPA-CF) which are better on paper but then really overkill for something that doesn't go under a car hood.
As usual, I started with the PrusaSlicer profile for PC Blend and tweaked it. What I came up with is:
Nozzle: 275, Bed 110, Extrusion Multiplier 1.045, XY shrinkage 0.59%
Three negatives need to point out.
- For larger parts proper thermal management of the bed and chamber are needed including brims and mouse ears. I also use a very stiff Garolite G10 surface to prevent the parts from warping the print sheet off of the bed.
- Price. It's twice as much as PETG
- Colors. Not really much choice at the moment. Hopefully Prusa will expand the palette.
RE: Why I'm using PC Blend as my "go to" filament
I have printed some smaller prints with the Prusa PC Blend with some success. However now I am trying to print a larger flat functional part that will deal with some compressive and dynamic loads and seeing some significant warping where my build sheet was pulled away from the magnetic hold. I tried a number of settings but admittedly I didn't run through all the calibrations since I had previous prints go well (like I should have). I'm going to go back and do that. However, I don't have a Garolite G10 plate plate and have just been using the Prusa print sheets (and I think I've ruined one of them). With the G10, how do you affix it to the printer if it isn't magnetic (it looks like it isn't)? Also, do you use any adhesive with it such as Magigoo PC or Nano Polymer Adhesive?
RE:
I barely print PC blend nowadays.Yes, it beats clearly PCTG, PETG and ASA for heat endurance and hardness, but being more stiff it's also less resistant to impact than other filaments. My main problem with PC is warping with large parts, as my printers don't have active heated chambers. I manage medium sized models with a smooth sheet and Dimafix or Nano Polymer as adhesive but for what I mainly print, there's no need for the extra temp. resistance of PC. ASA or PCTG do fine.
Oddly enough I never tried garolite for printing PC, only for PA and I don't use these plates anymore because, in my experience, Prusa dedicated PA plate is better. but maybe it's time to fetch those garolite plates and try them with PC.
For smallish parts that need to withstand mechanical stress, temperatures up to 130C and most solvents I use either PA11-CF from Prusa or PA-AF80 from Fillamentum. PA11-CF is harder and more stiff but less resistant to impacts. PA-AF80 is made with a PA12 base filled with aramid ( kevlar ) fibers instead of carbon. Those fibers gives it an extraordinary endurance to wear by friction as well as a greatly improved resistance to impacts, if compared to carbon filled PA/PC. Problem is the price (80€ for 600 gr spool ) and it comes only in 'natural' color, a sort of pale cream.
RE: Why I'm using PC Blend as my "go to" filament
However, I don't have a Garolite G10 plate plate and have just been using the Prusa print sheets (and I think I've ruined one of them). With the G10, how do you affix it to the printer if it isn't magnetic (it looks like it isn't)?
I use Holden Enterprises G10 on a rigid steel backing and print on it with Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. It's a G10 surface that has been bonded to the steel plate.
RE:
I used to make my own custom garolite printing plates purchasing a blank steel sheet, a foil of 3M-468MP double sided adhesive and a garolite/fiberglass board.
Lately, blank flexible steel sheets seem to be gone at Ali-Express, so I purchase a cheap textured plate instead, gluing the garolite on one side,
The first times I did this all went well, but when I purchased a couple of garolìte boards a few months ago, the vendor had the 'brilliant' idea of shipping the boards forcefully rolled into a narrow tube with many turns of packing tape to keep it from unbending. Needless to say that the boards arrived deformed and it was quite impossible to flatten them again. When I claimed a refund, the guy didn't seem to understand why I didn't like to get a tube instead of a flat board.
Be warned if some of you intend to purchase these boards at Ali-Express. Some vendors are totally clueless about the articles they sell.
RE: Why I'm using PC Blend as my "go to" filament
I used to make my own custom garolite printing plates purchasing a blank steel sheet, a foil of 3M-468MP double sided adhesive and a garolite/fiberglass board.
Lately, blank flexible steel sheets seem to be gone at Ali-Express, so I purchase a cheap textured plate instead, gluing the garolite on one side,
The first times I did this all went well, but when I purchased a couple of garolìte boards a few months ago, the vendor had the 'brilliant' idea of shipping the boards forcefully rolled into a narrow tube with many turns of packing tape to keep it from unbending. Needless to say that the boards arrived deformed and it was quite impossible to flatten them again. When I claimed a refund, the guy didn't seem to understand why I didn't like to get a tube instead of a flat board.
Be warned if some of you intend to purchase these boards at Ali-Express. Some vendors are totally clueless about the articles they sell.
That was my first G10 board. I bought a G10 surface on Amazon then attached a 3M adhesive magnet sheet to the back then stuck it to a spare textured plate. It pretty much worked but then I had parts that warped the plate into a Pringle and went with a solid steel solution.