Persistent X-axis Layer Shifting. Please help!
Hi, all. I'm relatively new to 3D printing and have been loving my Mk4S now for about two weeks (see pic). However, as of late I've been experiencing x-axis layer shifting that I cannot fix. It is frustrating! See the picture of my last three prints. I have been printing with black Overture PETG and all of my parts need to have 100% infil (so big, 14hr prints). I've ensured the x and y axis pulley screws are tight, belt tension is adequate, and print speeds are all at default. All diagnostic checks pass. I'm at a point where I don't know how to fix this issue!
Thanks for the help!
Best Answer by Brian:
I bet PETG is building up on the nozzle with that 100% infill and is dropping off somewhere on the print causing a crash, and hence the layer shift.
There is no real strength increase from 80-90% infill vs. 100 and I honestly can't think of a situation where it would be particularly helpful.
So the first change I'd make is lowerg your infill down to at least 90 if not lower and use rectilinear pattern.
Second, You didn't say what layer height or print profile your using, but if your using the structural profile try bumping up your nozzle temp 10 degrees.
If your using the speed profile raise the nozzle temp 10 degrees and slow down your infill speed and solid infill to 200.
Also watch while your printing to make sure that the infill is not underextruding and that your not getting excessive buildup on your nozzle. You will get buildup for the 1st few layers, but after that it should be minimal.
PETG in particular does not do well with solid infill because the nozzle tends to accumulate plastic with the back and forth motion as the nozzle sweeps back past the line it just printed in the opposite direction. It does much better with more perimeters vs. solid infill.
Lastly your PETG needs to be dry to minimize stringing and oozing. I find that the Prusament PETG filament profile works really well.
Good luck.
RE: Persistent X-axis Layer Shifting. Please help!
Hello,
I can see your printer sits in the enclosure: for starters your printer is not placed adequately between the vibration dampers, you can review the instructions here and compare with the picture of your enclosure ( https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/4a-installing-the-printer-mk4-s-mk3-9-s_567325#567973 )
Also, pay extra attention to the vibration of your printer during high speed / tall prints, I noticed my MK4S inside the enclosure had quite a bit of vibration because of the bottom metal sheet being a bit flexible and echoing the movements of my print head. Adding extra feet (in the form of vibration dampers) under the metal sheet completely solved the problem and greatly improved my print quality (no more ghosting).
RE:
Yeah, that bottom of the enclosure is a bit like a drum head. I've been thinking of printing additional feet, but haven't seriously looked at all the options on Printables yet. Then see if I can get a piece of scrap granite from a local counter shop to put under all of it instead of putting a paver inside the enclosure.
See my (limited) designs on:
Printables - https://www.printables.com/@Sembazuru
Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/Sembazuru/designs
RE: Persistent X-axis Layer Shifting. Please help!
I bet PETG is building up on the nozzle with that 100% infill and is dropping off somewhere on the print causing a crash, and hence the layer shift.
There is no real strength increase from 80-90% infill vs. 100 and I honestly can't think of a situation where it would be particularly helpful.
So the first change I'd make is lowerg your infill down to at least 90 if not lower and use rectilinear pattern.
Second, You didn't say what layer height or print profile your using, but if your using the structural profile try bumping up your nozzle temp 10 degrees.
If your using the speed profile raise the nozzle temp 10 degrees and slow down your infill speed and solid infill to 200.
Also watch while your printing to make sure that the infill is not underextruding and that your not getting excessive buildup on your nozzle. You will get buildup for the 1st few layers, but after that it should be minimal.
PETG in particular does not do well with solid infill because the nozzle tends to accumulate plastic with the back and forth motion as the nozzle sweeps back past the line it just printed in the opposite direction. It does much better with more perimeters vs. solid infill.
Lastly your PETG needs to be dry to minimize stringing and oozing. I find that the Prusament PETG filament profile works really well.
Good luck.
RE: Persistent X-axis Layer Shifting. Please help!
Yea, somehow when I was putting my Mk4S inside the enclosure the cables to the PSU on the outside were not long enough so it is just barely in the inside vibration dampers.
I've read articles and seen videos of people experimenting with wobbly tables and tables that don't wiggle and the results are always reported as similar. Do you think this is really it?
RE: Persistent X-axis Layer Shifting. Please help!
I bet PETG is building up on the nozzle with that 100% infill and is dropping off somewhere on the print causing a crash, and hence the layer shift.
There is no real strength increase from 80-90% infill vs. 100 and I honestly can't think of a situation where it would be particularly helpful.
So the first change I'd make is lowerg your infill down to at least 90 if not lower and use rectilinear pattern.
Second, You didn't say what layer height or print profile your using, but if your using the structural profile try bumping up your nozzle temp 10 degrees.
If your using the speed profile raise the nozzle temp 10 degrees and slow down your infill speed and solid infill to 200.
Also watch while your printing to make sure that the infill is not underextruding and that your not getting excessive buildup on your nozzle. You will get buildup for the 1st few layers, but after that it should be minimal.
PETG in particular does not do well with solid infill because the nozzle tends to accumulate plastic with the back and forth motion as the nozzle sweeps back past the line it just printed in the opposite direction. It does much better with more perimeters vs. solid infill.
Lastly your PETG needs to be dry to minimize stringing and oozing. I find that the Prusament PETG filament profile works really well.
Good luck.
You could be on to something. I've always feared that PETG would build up like you say.
I will try to up the nozzle temp to see if that helps.
I am using .2mm structural.
I just purchased my PETG but I will try to give it a dry in my dryer.
Thank you!!