Accelerometer how to article  

RE: Accelerometer how to article

Thank you for this. Once I get my MK4S kit and the accelerometer addon (not expecting ship date until week 45), I'll be swapping to plated copper heater blocks so I can use my WC nozzles. I've been holding off because I expect the heavier copper heater blocks to need slightly different IS tuning.

The article doesn't show where to put the M593 command, I assume in the start gcode. But where is best? Before or after MBL? Looking at the default MK4IS profiles (and the MK4S profiles) for guidance, I don't see M593 in any of the start gcodes. I sliced a cube real quick using one of the MK4IS profiles (switching off bgcode) and opened the resulting GCode in a text editor. Searching for M593 only shows two instances in the end gcode turning IS off. How is IS turned on?

RE: Accelerometer how to article

You do not need to do anything with the values once they are displayed - they will be automatically applied to the printer. 

I'm guess a recalibration will be advisable after a firmware upgrade. 

I'll have a full video guide on the entire process soon 😉

RE:

Video Guide now live!

RE: Accelerometer how to article

Great video on how to check your IS tune. I followed along and my stock MK4S ended up x54 y44 as well.

RE: Accelerometer how to article

Tried out my new Accelerometer today.  The linked article, AND Ifti's video was helpful -- Thanks @iftibashir !

The first problem I had was removing the silicone sock.  I didn't want to disconnect wires and lower the nozzle...  So, I created a simple "hook tool" to grab the silicone sock and pull it off, without having to lower the nozzle.  Posted here if anyone wants it: 
Nextruder Silicone Sock Puller for MK4S and MK3.9S by ScottW | Download free STL model | Printables.com

I ran the calibration test (3) times, to make sure results were consistent.  My MK4S is on a paving stone with sorbothane pads under it, inside a Prusa Enclosure, so I assume that all of that (especially the stone and pads) make a difference in the resonant frequencies, compared to the stock model on a table.

My results for the Y axis were similar to stock values; MZV filter at 41-42Hz (firmware default is MZV @ 40Hz).

My results for the X axis recommended the ZVD filter, at 55-56Hz.  Firmware default was MZD at 50Hz.

I accepted the new results into firmware settings and ran another test using the Klipper test model (with PrusaSlicer default 0.2 Prusament PETG SPEED profile).  Looks fantastic!  I have always seen a little ghosting in this print before, but that is GONE after the calibration. To my surprise, the improvement is really significant.  There is still a little in the "speed" profile, but it is virtually non-existent in the "structural" IS profile.

I thought the accelerometer was probably going to be a waste of money, but after looking at the results -- I'm really glad I bought it!

RE: Accelerometer how to article

My MK4S is on a paving stone with sorbothane pads under it, inside a Prusa Enclosure

I've been considering using a paving stone under my MK4 inside my enclosure, but haven't decided how to do it yet. My two thoughts are:

• Inside the enclosure, removing the alignment bumpers and creatively routing the external LCD cable.
• Outside the enclosure under the bottom panel with the weight of the enclosure stretching the bottom panel.

Currently, I don't have a paver and my MK4 is suspended on the thin metal "drum head" of the bottom of the enclosure, supported to my table at the corners of the enclosure. And this is a bit louder for some movements than my decommissioned MK3 (I only have room for 1 printer).

How did you square this circle?

RE: Accelerometer how to article

Posted by: @sembazuru

My MK4S is on a paving stone with sorbothane pads under it, inside a Prusa Enclosure

I've been considering using a paving stone under my MK4 inside my enclosure, but haven't decided how to do it yet. My two thoughts are:

• Inside the enclosure, removing the alignment bumpers and creatively routing the external LCD cable.
• Outside the enclosure under the bottom panel with the weight of the enclosure stretching the bottom panel.

Currently, I don't have a paver and my MK4 is suspended on the thin metal "drum head" of the bottom of the enclosure, supported to my table at the corners of the enclosure. And this is a bit louder for some movements than my decommissioned MK3 (I only have room for 1 printer).

How did you square this circle?

I removed the stock bumpers, put the stone inside, and left the LCD attached to the printer.  The stone adds enough height that the LCD is easily viewable through the clear plastic doors.  I typically control everything remotely, and really only use the LCD when loading/unloading filament, so having it inside works for me (and means I don't have to fiddle with it when removing the printer for maintenance).

I tried both a 16in x 16in x 2in concrete paver (~30 pounds, painted to seal in concrete dust), and a thinner 16in x 16in x 0.8in Porcelain paver (~16 pounds).  I found the thinner one to work just as well for noise dampening.  It also didn't require sealing and was a LOT easier to install due to the lower weight.

I was a bit concerned that the "bumpers" were needed to keep the printer in place.  But even with Input Shaper going full bore, the printer stays put on the stone.