"Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error  

RE:

The 3rd missing image must have been too big but it showed what line to make the changes in, I will add that info again here:

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

Change your starting gcode in profile from 195 to 170 for PETG nozzle cleaning and this helps.

TAB Printer settings -> own G-code -> find line starting from M140

 

M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp

M104 T0 S{((filament_type[0] == "PC" or filament_type[0] == "PA") ? (first_layer_temperature[0] - 25) : (filament_type[0] == "FLEX" ? 210 : (filament_type[0]=~/.*PET.*/ ? 195 : 170)))} ; set extruder temp for bed leveling

M109 T0 R{((filament_type[0] == "PC" or filament_type[0] == "PA") ? (first_layer_temperature[0] - 25) : (filament_type[0] == "FLEX" ? 210 : (filament_type[0]=~/.*PET.*/ ? 195 : 170)))} ; wait for temp

 

Change those two to 170

M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp

M104 T0 S{((filament_type[0] == "PC" or filament_type[0] == "PA") ? (first_layer_temperature[0] - 25) : (filament_type[0] == "FLEX" ? 210 : (filament_type[0]=~/.*PET.*/ ? 170 : 170)))} ; set extruder temp for bed leveling

M109 T0 R{((filament_type[0] == "PC" or filament_type[0] == "PA") ? (first_layer_temperature[0] - 25) : (filament_type[0] == "FLEX" ? 210 : (filament_type[0]=~/.*PET.*/ ? 170 : 170)))} ; wait for temp

After this modification and with sating or texture sheet I completely close issue with nozzle cleaning. 

On Smooth PEI even with 170 deg. of Celcius can happen that bed leveling will still leave this shity dots where nozzle touch bed for measurements.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

Thank you.  I'm not at the printer right now, but when I am, I'll try it.  You still have to clean the filament drippings off the nozzle.

BTW: The ObXidian nozzles for the MK4 are now in stock.  I got the .4mm and .6mm.  I have worked with these on my MK3/S modified with a Revo 6 and they are great.

RE:

You are welcome. Of course I have always cleaned the nozzle as the hot end heats up but that is just a grab with my fingers, no brass brushes or anything. And I clean my sheets with a razor blade and wipe it down with Windex and it works perfect. 😋 Thanks for the info on the ObXidian nozzles. They are pricey and with shipping from overseas even more so. I haven't used any abrasive filaments . . . yet. I think the nozzles will be available in the US too.

Posted by: @steve-4

Thank you.  I'm not at the printer right now, but when I am, I'll try it.  You still have to clean the filament drippings off the nozzle.

BTW: The ObXidian nozzles for the MK4 are now in stock.  I got the .4mm and .6mm.  I have worked with these on my MK3/S modified with a Revo 6 and they are great.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

I sometimes print with CF+PC and CF+PETG, so I need the hardened nozzle.  The Obxidian nozzle works fine with those filaments.  That's why I put the REVO 6 in my MK3/S.  I generally clean the build plates with 99% IPA.  Any filament that won't come off, I typically scrape off with either a plastic scraper or a fingernail.  Sometimes, if the filament is stuck too badly, I'll just print over it.  Seems to work.  That's why I went with the MK4:  I got tired of futzing with the first layer calibration on the MK3/S.  When I got it dialed in for PETG, going to the CF filaments or PC, the first layer distance seemed to change.  The MK4 seems to handle it better.

I use the build plates for the MK3/S on the MK4, and that seems to work fine.

I have an XL on order, mainly for the dual extruders so I can use a soluable support filament and for the bigger build area.  I like the idea of a toolchanger rather than a dual extruder, which has it's own problems.  I also like the Prusa infrastructure and the open-source nature of the printers.

Generally, my go to filament is PETG.  I might do a simple prototype in PLA+ (because it's cheaper), and then print it in a stronger filament.  I use Alibre Design for designing stuff for the printer.  I also use Octoprint, even with the MK4.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

I will be printing abrasive filament at some point so I will remember this post and refer back to it when I need it. I also have an MK3 original I recently out together and have the upgrade kit to the MK3S+ but will install that after I use it for a while. Then the Revo6 will make more sense to me. I like Prusa stuff for the most part too. I also have a couple of kits for setting up Octoprint with the R-pi but haven't had a chance to set them up yet. One will go on the MK3. I have 6 3D printers with 2 of them being Prusa. All in various upgrade stages.

I use DesignSpark Mechanical but have used FeeCAD too. I looked at the Alibre Design you mentioned but it is too pricey for me at the moment. 🙃 

Posted by: @steve-4

I sometimes print with CF+PC and CF+PETG, so I need the hardened nozzle.  The Obxidian nozzle works fine with those filaments.  That's why I put the REVO 6 in my MK3/S.  I generally clean the build plates with 99% IPA.  Any filament that won't come off, I typically scrape off with either a plastic scraper or a fingernail.  Sometimes, if the filament is stuck too badly, I'll just print over it.  Seems to work.  That's why I went with the MK4:  I got tired of futzing with the first layer calibration on the MK3/S.  When I got it dialed in for PETG, going to the CF filaments or PC, the first layer distance seemed to change.  The MK4 seems to handle it better.

I use the build plates for the MK3/S on the MK4, and that seems to work fine.

I have an XL on order, mainly for the dual extruders so I can use a soluable support filament and for the bigger build area.  I like the idea of a toolchanger rather than a dual extruder, which has it's own problems.  I also like the Prusa infrastructure and the open-source nature of the printers.

Generally, my go to filament is PETG.  I might do a simple prototype in PLA+ (because it's cheaper), and then print it in a stronger filament.  I use Alibre Design for designing stuff for the printer.  I also use Octoprint, even with the MK4.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

I use Alibre Design because when I first got it, it was the only inexpensive CAD around, and I was designing a commercial product (see www.hangatablet.com).  I use it and keep it updated because I don't have to have a learning curve for Freecad, which is what I would use.  I really like the feature tree concept as well as the parmetric capbility.  Plus, their tech support is really good.

I like the Obxidian nozzle because it's one less thing I have to worry about when using different filaments.  I can put any filament though it and no worry about the nozzle.

I use Octoprint exclusively (including the PI camera).  I custom-made a housing for it and the PI B.  I use a buck converter (so I can run the PI on 24V) and a custom prototype hat so I can control lights and can have the printer (and PI) power down when the print is finished.  I use the same Octoprint that used on the MK3 on the MK4 (with a new USB cable).  Works fine, except for the MK4 firmware issues.  If you have multiple printers, Octoprint is clearly the way to go for sanity.  One thing, though.  Each Octoprint box should have it's own static IP address, and DON'T use dynamic IPs (DHCP).

Before you get ready to install the upgrade on the MK3, I reprinted the entire extruder housing and the fan duct in PEAK (I had a service do it).  I did that because I like to print CF+PC, and it turned out whatever Prusa make those parts out of, they melted (as well as the Pinda mount) after printing the high temp stuff for a while.  I might do the same for the lower x axis bearing holder and fan duct on the MK4 because they sit so close to the hotend.  I quit using the MK3/S because I got really tired of futzing with the first layer distance.

If I rebuild the Octoprint setup, I will set up the PI using the standard Raspbian (so I can have a local browser so I can control Octoprint) and install Octoprint on top of that.  It will need a PI 4 or 5 for the performance.  I would then build a housing for the 7" display and use that to control the printer locally.  I already have a PI B housing with the 7" display and the buck converter already built.  I use that to learn Linux.  I can combine the parts using Alibre to put the entire mess in one housing.  I am a retired electrical engineer and can do this stuff.  Either that, or use the PI with the touch screen as a separate processor with a browser.  I use the PIs with the VNC server so I can control them with my big Windows machine using a VNC client.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

Hi Steve,

I can believe Alibre is good and has great support but I am just a hobbyist and DesignSpark and Fusion360 is what I started with. And DesignSpark gives you all the bells and whistles, although not parametric, that I will ever need. Fusion360 is good too but expensive and the hobby version is limited and the files are stored on the cloud which I don't like in case I want to have my files private.

The Obxidian nozzles sound great and I will check them out later when I really need them or maybe sooner if Black Friday has some good deals. 😀 

On the Octoprint I will add it to some but not all of my printers. I have a bunch of networked PC's in my house and I sure know about static IP addresses. I use them all the time. Great point though. The Prusalink works fine with the MK4 so I have 2 Raspberry PI's for the MK3 and one other for now but may buy more kits from TH3D unless you know of some deals elsewhere.

I will be a noob with the Raspberry PI's as I never used one yet but have messed with Arduinos. I am not an electrical engineer but I am well versed in electronics and a whole lot more. Computers (built over 100), programming (in the past), machine shop, welding, powder coating, ASE Certified Master Auto Tech (years ago), and much more. Basically a jack of all trades, master of none. 😉 And now I know who to ask if I have any questions on Octoprint or R-PI stuff.

Posted by: @steve-4

I use Alibre Design because when I first got it, it was the only inexpensive CAD around, and I was designing a commercial product (see www.hangatablet.com).  I use it and keep it updated because I don't have to have a learning curve for Freecad, which is what I would use.  I really like the feature tree concept as well as the parmetric capbility.  Plus, their tech support is really good.

I like the Obxidian nozzle because it's one less thing I have to worry about when using different filaments.  I can put any filament though it and no worry about the nozzle.

I use Octoprint exclusively (including the PI camera).  I custom-made a housing for it and the PI B.  I use a buck converter (so I can run the PI on 24V) and a custom prototype hat so I can control lights and can have the printer (and PI) power down when the print is finished.  I use the same Octoprint that used on the MK3 on the MK4 (with a new USB cable).  Works fine, except for the MK4 firmware issues.  If you have multiple printers, Octoprint is clearly the way to go for sanity.  One thing, though.  Each Octoprint box should have it's own static IP address, and DON'T use dynamic IPs (DHCP).

Before you get ready to install the upgrade on the MK3, I reprinted the entire extruder housing and the fan duct in PEAK (I had a service do it).  I did that because I like to print CF+PC, and it turned out whatever Prusa make those parts out of, they melted (as well as the Pinda mount) after printing the high temp stuff for a while.  I might do the same for the lower x axis bearing holder and fan duct on the MK4 because they sit so close to the hotend.  I quit using the MK3/S because I got really tired of futzing with the first layer distance.

If I rebuild the Octoprint setup, I will set up the PI using the standard Raspbian (so I can have a local browser so I can control Octoprint) and install Octoprint on top of that.  It will need a PI 4 or 5 for the performance.  I would then build a housing for the 7" display and use that to control the printer locally.  I already have a PI B housing with the 7" display and the buck converter already built.  I use that to learn Linux.  I can combine the parts using Alibre to put the entire mess in one housing.  I am a retired electrical engineer and can do this stuff.  Either that, or use the PI with the touch screen as a separate processor with a browser.  I use the PIs with the VNC server so I can control them with my big Windows machine using a VNC client.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

If you are looking for a decent, no cost cad, I suggest you look at Freecad  It's a parametric modeller and similar to the high-end packages.  As I said, I went with Alibre when the only alternatives were the very high-priced cad package (like Solidworks, Solidedge, etc.).  Now there are decent alternatives.  As I mentioned, I am familiar with Alibre, and have played with Freecad periodically.

Regarding static IP addresses.  I hope you are documenting what address go with what device.  I use an Excel spreadsheet for this.  This is really an IP plan, and important when you forget which IP address goes with what device.  Also, your next of kin will thank you, providing they know how to find the spreadsheet.

To get Raspberry PIs on sale, check out Microcenter's daily sales.  Sometimes you can get PIs on sale.  That's what I did.  If you don't have one locally to you, they can ship.

I am an EE, but I retired as the Director of IT Architecture and Engineering for a Major Airlines, and have been in the IT business for a VERY long time.  I also used to design (and test) radars and air traffic control system.

Steve

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

Steve,

  I already have FreeCAD on my pc as I just downloaded and installed the latest version yesterday. I uninstalled a few older versions and also 2 RealThunder versions. I thought I mentioned that but it may have been on another post in another thread here.

I always have a list of IP addresses or just look them up in my router config but a spreadsheet is also a good way to store them.

I get emails from Microcenter all the time. I will have to check the store for deals. No stores locally but shipping is no problem. Thanks.

Sounds like you have had an interesting career and lots of electronics knowledge.

I looked at you website and see you are still waiting on suction cups to get your store going. I myself have no need for the device (hangatablet) you are making and selling but it looks like a great idea and I am sure you will make some money at it once all the pieces and issue are worked out. I wish you luck.

Posted by: @steve-4

If you are looking for a decent, no cost cad, I suggest you look at Freecad  It's a parametric modeller and similar to the high-end packages.  As I said, I went with Alibre when the only alternatives were the very high-priced cad package (like Solidworks, Solidedge, etc.).  Now there are decent alternatives.  As I mentioned, I am familiar with Alibre, and have played with Freecad periodically.

Regarding static IP addresses.  I hope you are documenting what address go with what device.  I use an Excel spreadsheet for this.  This is really an IP plan, and important when you forget which IP address goes with what device.  Also, your next of kin will thank you, providing they know how to find the spreadsheet.

To get Raspberry PIs on sale, check out Microcenter's daily sales.  Sometimes you can get PIs on sale.  That's what I did.  If you don't have one locally to you, they can ship.

I am an EE, but I retired as the Director of IT Architecture and Engineering for a Major Airlines, and have been in the IT business for a VERY long time.  I also used to design (and test) radars and air traffic control system.

Steve

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

It's not a good idea just to have the list of IP address in your router.  If your router ever died, well.....  Listing IP ranges in the spreadsheet (ie 192.168.0.2-60 are for Computers, 61-70 are for access points, etc.).  That way, if you add a new device to your network (such as a new Octoprint), you will know where to put it in the IP plan.

I used to design and program things before embedded computers became popular.  I built and programmed 2 radar simulators for testing out air traffic control systems.  I also have designed radars.  I first learned to program the IBM 1401 computer.

The Hangatablet is interesting, but I don't think there is much market today.  Most people use their cell phones for nav.  We originally contracted with a manufacturer to injection mold the parts, but he skipped with our money, so there is that.  I redesigned the product so I could 3D print the parts on the Prusa MK3/S, but printing would take too long to mass produce.  I have 3 patents on the hanger.  I originally printed the hanger in PETG and the shaft softened in the sun.  I redesigned the hanger and printed it using PC+CF.  Also made the shaft thicker (easy to do with a parametric modeler).  So far, the shaft haven't softened.  I have enough suction cups to make around 90 hangers.  I can get more.  They come from China.  At this point, I am a bit too old to start making these and dealing with post-sales support.  Advertising is another big issue.  I printed the last hanger for the phone on the MK4 in PETG.  Once I get the ObXidian nozzles for the MK4, I'll print the hanger and tweak the model a little bit.  The parts take a bit to put together, so there's that.  If I ever get the XL, I'll be able to print the stuff much faster, and more copies on the print bed.

I will build an Octoprint box for the XL whenever I get it.  Having 2 extruders means I can put a soluable support filament in one extruder, and the real stuff in the other, and not have to futz with breakaway supports (the hanger requires supports).  It will be nice by then hopefully Prusa will have figured out the Nozzle Cleaning Failed problem as well as the problem of the MK4 and the XL not playing nice with Octoprint.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

Steve, I agree on the IP address "ranges" for keeping things organized. I also take screenshots of my router setting and store them on multiple computers and backup drives so I have that covered one way or another.

Interesting stuff on your work with programming and radars. Definitely a specialized skill. I started coding with a Commodore 64. 😋 

On the hangatablets you should have tried to get on Shark Tank. 😀 Sounds like what happened to you has happened to many others where the other guy just takes your money and leaves you hanging. I guess the sunshine in a got car can mess with the PETG. That's good to know as I would have thought it would have been ok. That PEAK filament is way pricey as I looked it up.  Good thing for PC-CF to lower that cost. You seem like me in the sense a good idea takes longer to get to market than expected and by the time you do, the window of opportunity is way less or even gone (or idea stolen and copied).

Someday I will get a dual extruder for soluable supports. That is way too cool. I will get there eventually. And the Octoprint soon . . .

Posted by: @steve-4

It's not a good idea just to have the list of IP address in your router.  If your router ever died, well.....  Listing IP ranges in the spreadsheet (ie 192.168.0.2-60 are for Computers, 61-70 are for access points, etc.).  That way, if you add a new device to your network (such as a new Octoprint), you will know where to put it in the IP plan.

I used to design and program things before embedded computers became popular.  I built and programmed 2 radar simulators for testing out air traffic control systems.  I also have designed radars.  I first learned to program the IBM 1401 computer.

The Hangatablet is interesting, but I don't think there is much market today.  Most people use their cell phones for nav.  We originally contracted with a manufacturer to injection mold the parts, but he skipped with our money, so there is that.  I redesigned the product so I could 3D print the parts on the Prusa MK3/S, but printing would take too long to mass produce.  I have 3 patents on the hanger.  I originally printed the hanger in PETG and the shaft softened in the sun.  I redesigned the hanger and printed it using PC+CF.  Also made the shaft thicker (easy to do with a parametric modeler).  So far, the shaft haven't softened.  I have enough suction cups to make around 90 hangers.  I can get more.  They come from China.  At this point, I am a bit too old to start making these and dealing with post-sales support.  Advertising is another big issue.  I printed the last hanger for the phone on the MK4 in PETG.  Once I get the ObXidian nozzles for the MK4, I'll print the hanger and tweak the model a little bit.  The parts take a bit to put together, so there's that.  If I ever get the XL, I'll be able to print the stuff much faster, and more copies on the print bed.

I will build an Octoprint box for the XL whenever I get it.  Having 2 extruders means I can put a soluable support filament in one extruder, and the real stuff in the other, and not have to futz with breakaway supports (the hanger requires supports).  It will be nice by then hopefully Prusa will have figured out the Nozzle Cleaning Failed problem as well as the problem of the MK4 and the XL not playing nice with Octoprint.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

So I just ran into this. The solution was really simple (after struggling for an hour...). On my setup, the thumb screws that hold the quick change nozzle/loadcell stuff had vibrated loose after a bunch of prints. I re-tightened these and everything started behaving.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

Hi Guys, I have the same issue with nozzle cleaning failed. I tried different temperatures like described above. I was in a long contact with Prusa Chat support. They send me a new load cell, same problemes occuors. All calibration tests were Okay. My nozzle was absolutly clean before sensing algortihmen starting.

I getting grazy here since days, I trying to run the printer without any success. The printer was a kit and built it up by myself. The first 50 prints were without any issues. I tought I have to bougth the MK4 after using my old MK3S  (Also a Kit) because of speed and precision. 

I'm starting to think it was a bad decision. Does anyone know the criteria when the printer recognizes the nozzle as clean? I imagine that the distance traveled by the Z axis and the measured force are compared. If the Z-axis has to travel less distance than the last measurement to register a force, I think this will be viewed as a blockage. Can anyone get this from the source code?

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

How do you adjust the nozzle temperature for cleaning?  I am having this problem with TPU.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

Have you downloaded and installed the latest firmware?  I think they have fixed the problem.

You have to make sure the nozzle is clean, especially oozings of old filament.

You change the temps by going to the settings gear and changing the temp there.

Steve

RE:

New update from my issue:

I got a new Love Board send by great Prusa support and it solved immediately my problem. I will try to analyse the issue with the old love board by myself. I think there is something wrong with the ADC HX717 IC. Maybe the commication via RS422 to the Love Board is corrupt or the HX717 has any other problems. I will try to replace this IC my myself. We will see...

For everybody which have same issue with "nozzle cleaning failed" who tried everthing like discriped in this topic, in the end it can be a problem with the love board. That was my experience.

Checklist done before replacing:

1. recalibrate more than once - same problem
2. changed software from older software (4.xx before input shaper) to 5.1.2. testing all versions between 4.XX and 5.1.2 downgrade and upgrade - same problem
3. Cleaned nozzle to a perfect condition (brass brush), no filament rest on the nozzle tip while probing - same problem
4. Using in this forum explained temperature settings - same Problem
5. In contact with prusa chat support losing and fixing some screws an the Printhead head.
6. Checking cable connection and checking wires if they are broken or injured - same problem
7. Prusa supports send me a new load cell - same problem
8. checked z axis spindle reversal backlash, i printed with my old MK3 printer new spindel nuts, fits perfects no reversal backlash anymore - same problem
9. checking raw data of load cell in the printer menue, it seems that the value is jittering a little bit, prusa chat support told me thats normal, but there is no official  definded tolerance description, would be nice to have - same problem
10. Last try again with prusa chat: they send me a new love board, i replaced them and works immediately!!!!

Thanks Prusa Support for unsophisticated providing of the replacement parts!

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

I'm starting to get these errors almost always on my MK4 when printing ABS (I was printing PETG and PLA so far)

Hoping it's not the loveboard, it usually settles after 2 retries or doing a filament change with nozzle cleanup

I'm on firmware 5.1.2

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

Thanks for posting this, you solved my problem! I followed the procedure for changing the nozzle, only just pushed the nozzle up while tightening the thumbscrews and we're back in business.  

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

I'm also experiencing loops with "nozzle cleaning failed".  The nozzle and bed look clean to me.  I think I'll just disable the g-code since it's not doing any cleaning and wastes time.

RE: "Nozzle Cleaning Failed." Error

Pissed and about to resolve this problem with big hammer. Wish me luck.