PrusaSlicer Tutorial  

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

The icon that is a box with a little curved arrow pointing and a flat surface? When you click that icon you will have white ellipses on the faces of your object. Click on the one you want to be the base and the object will be auto rotated.

As for tutorials, I don't know, I would assume there are some out there but I've never tried looking.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

Thanks @darcshadow, I will try that.  I saw those ellipses but did know what to do with them.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

There are no tutorials on Slic3r that I have found.  Just trial and error and asking silly questions here.  The tool is powerful, and the Plicer upgrade makes it even more powerful.  It will do an awful lot. If you find something you need to do and can't find it, ask here and someone will get you an answer.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

Thanks @tim-m30, I printed one of my designs but I didn't like the layer formats that I selected so I printed another copy using different layer formats.  Liked it much better but discovered a huge shift sideways in the X-axis about 80% completed.  To me it looks like a coding error because once the shift happened then the remainder of the print followed the new X-axis shift location.

Does anyone have any ideas as to the shift?

Which layer formats does everyone seen to prefer?

Thanks all,

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

Actually I lied -- there is a manual and I knew of it when I posted; but it had totally slipped my brain (I was thinking paper hands on type manuals).

https://manual.slic3r.org/

Sometimes I wonder how I get through a day without forgetting my behind.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

Large shifts are almost always NOT a software problem.   Usually it is what's called a nozzle crash.  The nozzle snags on some plastic that is curling on the part. The motor stalls, for a few steps and those steps become a permanent offset in the print.  Everything above that point prints as if the part somehow moved sideways.  This happens on X and on Y.  A photo is helpful to diagnose.

As for layer formats -- I'm not sure I understand what you mean.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

I've had that problem happen as well but was never present to witness it. Nice to know what is actually causing it.

The manual for Slic3r is really pretty good, however, be aware, it is for Slic3r, not Prusa Slicer. The two programs are very close and the manual will get you a good starting point but there will be some differences and things not included in the manual that Prusa Slicer can do, one of which is the auto rotate thing.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

Thanks @darcshadow, I too have never been there when the shift happens.  I am using PrusaSlicer, so I have no previous experience or bad habits.  Will develop the bad habits moving forward.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

Thanks @tim-m30, that makes sense, but how do you prevent that from happening other than gluing your eyes to the print.

What's the best way to stop the print so you can start over before wasting a lot of time?

I have attached a photo.  You can see the shift with the part on the right (part with bottom).

Layer formats should have read ... infill settings.  Which do you prefer?

Thanks,

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

The image posted is too lo-res to really see what's happening. Drag the original photo into the text box to post; and use the Link To / Media File option.  

To be honest, a shift on that part would be difficult to blame on curl.  Any shifts are probably due to something else happening. But I'm also assuming the part is the only thing on the bed when printing.

Each type of curl has it's own roots, a fix for one situation may not help another.  Curl on overhangs, curl on layer buildup above infill, two common types, slowing print speeds reduces likelihood of a crash, reducing print fan speeds, and changing part orientation can help with temp differences.

Here's a part that suffers overhang curling (middle) and infill curl (mid top).

And this part suffered curl problems and had a large shift on my first attempt, caused by insufficient infill.  This is the second print with more infill, but it was still struggling with curl and I had to slow print speeds down, and when that wasn't enough I slowed the print fan to 25%.  Those flat spots on top of the Gyroid infill were the problem, the edges just would not stay flat.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

Each time the shift happened it was well into a new section, not at any transitioning level, & each printed piece developed the shift at approx .375" from the surface/table.  But the shift has only happened twice & had about 8 good prints.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

Looks like the original image is only VGA ...

Are the three parts shown supposed to be the same?  Or are there four parts and the top one is a stack? 

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

ps: just to ensure we are talking about the same thing: this is a layer shift.

RE: PrusaSlicer Tutorial

@tim-m30, yes, that is exactly what is happening except my shift is minor compared to your photo.

My shift is small, maybe by only one bead width, approx .020" (.5mm).

My photo shows three individual pieces to make up the holder project.  The piece that has a bottom to it (top piece) is the one with the shift, just about the flat full bottom.