PC Blend Print Layer Shift
hi!
i've recently started printing pc blend - getting all the info on how to from the blog here. however, i find my prints with shifted layers (looks like inverted elephant feet). i follow all pc blend temperature recommendations, use brim (15mm) and windshield (5mm away from object) and deactivated the fan. maybe someone has experience with this and can give me adivce?
i recalibrated several times for better first layer adhesion, however the print does seem to warp slightly and therefore lift from the heatbed? do i want it to stick more or are there any other settings i miss? how many layers of kores do you use?
thank you!
best,
nik
pc blend
I use a light coating of Kores and if it is warping, I will add a brim. If it is not adhering enough, your z offset might need to be adjusted.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
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Have you compared the PC Blend prints to prints of other filaments having higher than PLA temps, such as ABS or ASA?
I've had good luck with the Prusa PC Blend, but I have not done any relatively tall prints. I've always used either Kores or lately Layerneer as a release agent.
reply
Check your fan shroud. Printing PC with the fan off, with an ASA or ABS shroud, it will soften and droop fast, and can then catch on the print. I remove the shroud for PC prints. As it happens, I just started my first roll of PCCF, and the first print I did was a fan shroud. I fitted a brand new ASA shroud just to print the PCCF one, and it barely made it to the end of the 35 minute print!
I print in an enclosure, normally just to avoid drafts and contain fumes, but due to PC warping issues I've tried heating it. With enclosure at 45C, and bed +5 over default profile, I still get lifting sometimes. As Chuck H notes, you may need to squish your first layer (z offset) more into the bed than you might normally just to get it to stick more. FYI, I've done all my PC with the satin sheet, no glue.
Having tried PCCF, I think my one and only roll of PC Blend will be my last - I'll just switch to using PCCF for tough, precise, heat-resistant parts. It's just so easy to print with, although you will need a hardened nozzle (I'm using Nozzle X), and E3D recommend using their copper alloy heat block for printing at PCCF temperatures. Of course, PC Blend has a slightly different balance of material properties which you might actually need.
RE: PC Blend Print Layer Shift
A box around the printer could help, to keep of wind, 100% close is normally not needed, expect wen it is very cold, a photo shoot tent works also.
-Start the printer to warmup, but do not print for a longer time.(especially in the winter).
-Print slower, then filament can cool down, or print more models at the same time if model is small.
-Get moister out of filament.(put roll in a de-moister for 6 ours).
-Print hotter you could try(extruder).
-First layer needs to be 100%, if not, sticking will be bad, clean bed very good with dish soap, and use glue.
-Windshield.
update
hey guys! thank you for your help.
i print pc-blend on a mk3s and i tried to include some of the above recommendations in my printer/filament-configuration; however, the so-far best print results i achieved by using a configuration that was posted here -
1/ has anyone of you tried the above link/config out? if yes, what problems did you encounter on a mks3?
2/ i started to print in an enclosure - do you still recommend a whindshield or is it redundant now?
3/ in case anyone has the same printer/filament configuration (pc-blend/mks3) and prints pc with good results, would you mind sharing your .ini?
4/ which printer-settings do you use? i only printed pla with 0,3 draft settings before - do you use 0,1-0,2 fine/speed/quality settings when printing polycarbonate?
thank you all for your help! i'm relatively new to 3d-printing and grateful for all help.
best,
nik
layer shift
You may still get it periodically even with a box or enclosure. The same is true with warping.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog