ASA juice for large models adhesion
I'm mainly printing ASA, and I use glue + IPA as the coating on the smooth PEI in the enclosure. However, corners lose adhesion for larger models with >20h print times. I understand that I can add brim, but first, I want to experiment with ASA juice and face a few questions/challenges.
- Concentration: I used 10g of ASA for 100ml of acetone as recommended here ( https://all3dp.com/2/abs-glue-slurry-juice-tutorial/). However, there are still small lumps, and adding more acetone does not seem to change it. Is it normal?
- Application: as you can see in the video, I use a brush, but it gives a pretty uneven surface. Is it any better way to do it? It dries out quickly, so I don't believe that using tissue is a viable option.
- Z-offset: it seems that I need to increase my Z value as the surface is higher than in the case of glue + IPA. Am I doing something wrong, or is it normal that different adhesion agents require different Z values?
- Cleaning: how to clean the PEI sheet properly? Water + soap or IPA doesn't help, and acetone cannot be used regularly ( https://help.prusa3d.com/article/smooth-steel-sheet_196550). Any other option?
RE: ASA juice for large models adhesion
I've heard of ABS Juice, but never ASA Juice.
I've also had good luck with ABS and ASA build plate adhesion on both glass plates and PEI coated steel plates using Layerneer, which is applied with a sponge applicator.
Your plate above looks like the ASA pieces did not completely dissolve. It's very streaky, and my hunch is that it would leave an impression on the underside of prints, kind of like a thick coating of glue stick does.
If I were doing this (which I am not, Layerneer works fine for me) I would chop or grind the ASA pieces to as close to a powder as I could get and then try dissolving. I doubt if your acetone solution is saturated with ASA and it's more likely that the pieces are too large to quickly dissolve. I might also try something like a lab mixer or cocktail mixer and warm the solution (CAREFULLY! and in a well-ventilated area) while mixing.
RE: ASA juice for large models adhesion
Give up on juice, that's so old school it's not worth the time, move on. even if printing on glass use something like Magigoo or layreneer the outcome will be cleaner and the print will be easier to deal with, juice is something from the 2012's we have far superior products and methods now.
Good luck
Swiss_Cheese
The Filament Whisperer
RE: ASA juice for large models adhesion
Try using a brim before buy different glue. A brim cost essentially nothing in both time and material. Also look at partial or full draft shield (I understand that you are using an enclosure but try it anyway).
RE: ASA juice for large models adhesion
ASA sticks perfect to the surface with Elmers glue since its water soulble you can reuse the remaining glue, just spay a bit of water with an atomizer and a kitchen silicon spatula to make it even and smooth
RE:
But don´t waste your time experimenting with any sort of additional adhesives before you try printing with quality ASA. With Spectrum ASA 275 in an enclosure have no warping problems even with 36hr prints. Spectrum ASA does not require to be apparently cooked on the bed like some crappy stuff I have tried before but is rather low-temp on the bed.
I try to give answers to the best of my ability, but I am not a 3D printing pro by any means, and anything you do you do at your own risk. BTW: I have no food for…