RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
Thanks!
RE:
Thanks!
I think your message got cut off. Which PETG? They are not interchangeable. Prusa/Bambu/Overture/Polymaker they are all subtly different.
I recommend reading this thread: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-core-one-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/do-the-included-printer-profiles-use-a-too-high-limit-for-the-volumetric-flow/#post-782665
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
It's Overature PETG, Black is the worst, but other colors are impacted as well. Orange seems to be the cleanest. I've tried various temperatures, but it's either very stringy, with nodules left all over the print surface, or it delaminates. The temperature tower prints perfectly over the full range (from 230-260), but real prints don't work.
RE:
It's Overature PETG, Black is the worst, but other colors are impacted as well. Orange seems to be the cleanest. I've tried various temperatures, but it's either very stringy, with nodules left all over the print surface, or it delaminates. The temperature tower prints perfectly over the full range (from 230-260), but real prints don't work.
Have you dried it in a filament dryer? PETG needs to be stored in dry conditions or it will get stringy and show other symptoms as well such a poor layer adhesion.
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
Thanks!
Also, which Diamondback do you have? Is it the 0.4mm or 0.6mm?
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
The reason why diamond nozzles ooze more than ordinary brass ones isn’t the superior thermal conductivity. Compared to the whole body of the nozzle, the diamond part is only a small tip and that won’t make significant differences in the global thermal conductivity, one or two degrees Celsius at most. What makes these nozzles ooze more is the extremely low friction coefficient of diamond, Thus, the filament drips faster from the tip than from the tip of metal or TC. You may fix the extra oozing lowering the nozzle temperature, but that has a drawback : slightly worse interlayer adhesion,
Nozzles with hard tip inserts like diamond or ruby have another drawback that manufacturers won’t tell you about. Yes, the tips won’t wear even if they go through tons of abrasive filament, but that applies only to the tip. The internal 2mm. channel going from the top of the nozzle till the diamond/ruby insert is brass or copper. That channel will wear with abrasive filaments, albeit twenty times slower than the tips, because the speed of the filament flow there is a only a fraction of the tip, Therefore it will last much longer but it will wear eventually. What was a smooth metal channel will become rougher and rougher. After a while the carbon/glass fibers will start sticking to the small crevices, making a build up of solid particles. Sort of nozzle arteriosclerosis. Filament flow will become more and more difficult. Nozzle clog chances will increase tenfold. That’s not all, eventually the brass in direct contact with the diamond insert might wear enough that the tip gets loose and falls when you clean the nozzle with a brush, or in the middle of a print.
You may think this is an over pessimistic scenario. It is if you print abrasive filaments only now and then. It’s realistic if you do that on a daily basis.
All in all, I still think that the best nozzles for intensive printing of abrasive filaments are those made from a single part of tungsten carbide,
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
As mentioned above, the filament must be dry. I would also suspect the filament profile, I've printed with different nozzles, including the diamond 0.4 which is my daily, I saw no difference in performance beyond Z offset and corresponding elephants foot. I have not printed with overture PETG, but I've seen numerous posts here about being unable to print PETG, they have all been solved with a good profile. I did not see which printer you have in any of the posts, going to assume it is a core one. This is from a core one L, but should be the same. Save the filament profile, change temp, bed, extr mult as you need.
Core One L MMU3, MK3S
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
Yea, it does sound like wet filament to start. Invest in a filament dryer. Don't have to get anything too fancy. If you are printing single color, Sunlu has a descent one for cheap that works. I use it not only for initial drying, but also keep drying while I print. Also store your filament in a dry box. There are some DIY dry box options out there.
This is the dryer I use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FDGLB2KC?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2
I've also just ordered a food dehydrator which I will use for filament drying and drying out my reusable silica gel beads I keep in my DIY dry boxes. I have no idea how good it will be. I needed something relatively small due to limited space.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FKWH79JG
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
I've also just ordered a food dehydrator which I will use for filament drying and drying out my reusable silica gel beads I keep in my DIY dry boxes. I have no idea how good it will be. I needed something relatively small due to limited space.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FKWH79JG
I actually did not go with the specified dehydrator in the long run. I ordered it, received it, and found it to be too small. Instead I settled on something with much more room. I read around and it seemed Magic Mill was a common dehydrator used for filament and drying silica. I'm glad I went with it. I've used it quite a bit so far and it seems to work very well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ML4ZJQP