RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
I like to use various materials without having to stop and think about swapping a nozzle.
Yeah absolutely, when tuned properly it gives me the best prints. Mine is a REVO, so probably as slightly different user experience. I have a full sock I cast covering it, I get the cleanest silky smooth prints from it, and never have to worry about what I'm pushing through it.
I do a lot of CF prints, they come out exquisitely. But it mainly prints PETG over and over again, without issue (once calibrated and properly dialed in that is!).
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
I'm still having issues. How did you tune it in? What did you actually do?
With PLA I can only get the first layer to stick if I have the nozzle temp at 230 and bed at 65. Then second layer on drop to 215. This kind of works, but with small prints sometimes it still detaches from the build plate. I've tried smooth, textured, and the fancy holographic plates. All about the same. Have not tried glue stick, and I really don't want to. Have never used it before on any printer and never needed it. Almost ready to break down and try it.
What could possibly cause this? I can't even imagine a reason.
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
I'm still having issues. How did you tune it in? What did you actually do?
With PLA I can only get the first layer to stick if I have the nozzle temp at 230 and bed at 65. Then second layer on drop to 215. This kind of works, but with small prints sometimes it still detaches from the build plate. I've tried smooth, textured, and the fancy holographic plates. All about the same. Have not tried glue stick, and I really don't want to. Have never used it before on any printer and never needed it. Almost ready to break down and try it.
What could possibly cause this? I can't even imagine a reason.
After spending nearly 20 hours trying to solve this issue along with some of the other issues posted here I am convinced my nozzle is cursed. Either that or the people who don't experience problems all have some magic setting that I can't seem to find. I gave up, obxidian HF 0.4 works great. Still dissapointed though, I haven't been able to find any post from people who had the issues say what exactly fixed it.
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
These nozzles are neat, same with the ruby nozzles. From what I've seen, they often fail when the insert comes loose, not when the insert wears out.
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My experience with the Diamondback is not good. It works great on PETG, but PLA is an unmitigated disaster on my Mk4s. The first layer comes out perfectly (so Z is not an issue), but the second layer is a complete mess, and the machine invariably aborts the print with a stuck-nozzle error. You have to reboot the printer to recover from it. (Hey Prusa, having a "reload" and no "cancel" button in the error message is the worst sort of bad UX—you need to fix that.) The nozzle is clean. I've printed a tower and it doesn't seem to work at any temperature. There may be some sort of adjustment I can make in the slicer, but so far, nothing I've tried works, and I can't find anything online. This was supposed to be an "all filament" nozzle. It isn't. Diamondback, itself, is nof help.
TBH, I'm a bit frustrated by the other answers that say that the nozzle must be "properly calibrated" to work, but don't say precisely what they did to calibrate. I'd very much appreciate it if someone who got the nozzle to work could publish exactly what they did to accomplish that. Thanks!
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I have the 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 and I will never use another (non-Diamondback) nozzle again. Once you get the temp change (-10C from stock) and z offset and retraction dialed-in, I get a perfect smooth 1st layer and perfect print each time. So far after 100+ hrs of printing nothing major, no clogs etc. So far I've printed: PLA, PETG, ASA, PC-CF, PA-CF, PP-CF, TPU all without any issues. Typically I use the .8 for fast prototyping and then switch to .6 or .4 depending on how much detail the part needs.
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I'm sure that diamond back nozzles are great, but I don't like nozzles with hard inserts. I much prefer unibody designs. Therefore, two or three years ago I replaced my nickel plated copper nozzles with tungsten carbide (or "widia" to be precise). I never looked back. Just to clarify, I'm not using them on a Prusa printer with nextruder, so no need to use adapters. I heard that these nozzles may have isues whith those adapters.
Like ruby or diamond, TC nozzles,don't wear at all, no matter how abrassive the filament might be. Unlike ruby or diamond, you don't have to worry about the hard insert getting loose, because the main body of the nozzle wears eventually ( I expect it would take long for that, but still.. ).
I'm curious to know why do you need to reduce as much as 10C the nozzle temp. with diamond nozzles. Agreed, diamond has better heat transfer than brass, but it's only a tiny insert, so it can't make a significant difference on the actual temperature at the tip of the nozzle ( 1 or 2 degrees Celsius maybe?.). In fact, several users of this forum said that they didn't change at all the temperature from stock brass nozzles,
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
+5 for the tungsten carbide nozzles, they just slip in and work, no finesse required.
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I'm curious to know why do you need to reduce as much as 10C the nozzle temp. with diamond nozzles. Agreed, diamond has better heat transfer than brass, but it's only a tiny insert, so it can't make a significant difference on the actual temperature at the tip of the nozzle ( 1 or 2 degrees Celsius maybe?.). In fact, several users of this forum said that they didn't change at all the temperature from stock brass nozzles,
It was recommend by E3D and I confirmed this by printing temp towers. I see slightly better results with the lower temps. The issues with the ruby nozzles was the tip falling out as you mentioned. Anyway, I'll report back here if I ever have a problem with them. I guess it's like audiophile equipment the high price sets up a sort of placebo effect. Regardless I like these nozzles.
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
Some time later:. Been using the same nozzle for PETG and PC Blend and it just works!, what else can I say, I cant fault it. PETG on a textured plate and PC Blend on a satin plate. Nothing stuck to the nozzle yet, it cleans nicely between prints. Biggest difference I have seen so far is if I am using my filament dryer or not, it's not the nozzle, bur without the dryer I get stringing and blobs. Its a Creality Space Pi dryer so holds two filaments. It blows hot air into the chamber so this swirls around the outside of the filament drying this out first, which is exactly what you want, yes, it could be quieter. but an excellent dryer.
Normal people believe that if it is not broke, do not fix it. Engineers believe that if it is not broke, it does not have enough features yet.
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
I read somewhere that one small drawback of diamond nozzles might be due to the extremely low friction of diamond. That would increase oozing and stringing, as the filament slips down faster from the tip, Therefore, reducing the nozzle temperature intends to fix that extra oozing. Problem with that is that lower temperatures make interlayer adhesion worse.
If the theory about extra oozing is true, I think it would be better to increase a bit the retraction length instead of lowering the temperature. I’m just making an uneducated guess because I have no experience with these nozzles.
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
I adjusted retraction from .8 to 1.5 I think it was. Didn't change the temps, that's the worst place to start; especially when you're making parts primarily for strength.
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
My experience with the Diamondback is not good. It works great on PETG, but PLA is an unmitigated disaster on my Mk4s. The first layer comes out perfectly (so Z is not an issue), but the second layer is a complete mess, and the machine invariably aborts the print with a stuck-nozzle error. You have to reboot the printer to recover from it. (Hey Prusa, having a "reload" and no "cancel" button in the error message is the worst sort of bad UX—you need to fix that.) The nozzle is clean. I've printed a tower and it doesn't seem to work at any temperature. There may be some sort of adjustment I can make in the slicer, but so far, nothing I've tried works, and I can't find anything online. This was supposed to be an "all filament" nozzle. It isn't. Diamondback, itself, is nof help.
TBH, I'm a bit frustrated by the other answers that say that the nozzle must be "properly calibrated" to work, but don't say precisely what they did to calibrate. I'd very much appreciate it if someone who got the nozzle to work could publish exactly what they did to accomplish that. Thanks!
I don't print with PLA anymore so can't comment on this directly but I've found both slightly reducing the nozzle temperature and increasing retraction helps a lot. I would start by printing a PLA temp tower to get an idea of the best temp to print with for your filament. It's a diamond tip so there is better heat conduction and less friction through the nozzle which is why lower temps and larger retraction help. E3D mention some of this on their website. You can also contact them and ask.
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
Hello,
I had E3D Obxidian HF, that was terrible, when I print more than 1 hour, the nozzle starts to creak...
I am considering buying a diamond nozzle, how speed I can print with it on Core One? Is possible use speed profile? Or balanced? When I asked google, there I found speed about 50 mm/s...
Thank you for help
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
Hello,
I had E3D Obxidian HF, that was terrible, when I print more than 1 hour, the nozzle starts to creak...
I am considering buying a diamond nozzle, how speed I can print with it on Core One? Is possible use speed profile? Or balanced? When I asked google, there I found speed about 50 mm/s...
Thank you for help
It greatly depends on the type of filament and temperature it is printed at. The only way to really know for sure is to run calibration tests for each filament you intend to print. Since the Diamondback is not a high-flow nozzle, only SPEED and STRUCTURAL profiles are available.
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
On my XL I had 3 brass nozzles & 2 ObXidian, in .4mm. A few months ago I replaced the ObXidian's with Diamondbacks. I've been printing PETG, PETG-CF & ASA with it. I haven't messed with any tuning or temps. Generally I haven't seen that much difference. There might be a bit less globing with the PETG, but nothing earth shattering. I'm debating what to do now. 3 brass nozzles left on the XL & another high flow brass on the i3 MK3.9. 2 leftover ObXidians I need to clean up & put somewhere. I was regretting not having a hardened nozzle on the MK3.9 the other day for some ASA-CF or PETG-CF when the XL was busy with something else.
They work well, but I'm not sure I'll shell out for any more. All the various speed & structural profiles worked fine for brass, ObXidian & Diamondback with minimal differences.
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I saw a new nozzle on Amazon. Has anyone tried a Diamondback nozzle?
I am looking for honest opinions before I buy one.
I've been using a Diamondback nozzle with my Core One now for about 7 months. I've printed, PLA, PETG, ASA, and PC-CF now without issue. Wasn't the case when I first started, however. You can't just throw the nozzle in and print like normal. You really have to tweak the settings, which was something new for me, so I did experience some frustration at first. I was completely new to 3D printing anyway, and after my brass nozzle wore out (I didn't even understand that was a thing at the time) after about 200-300 hours of printing, I though, naively, I'll just get the best strongest nozzle and put that in. Watched a few youtube streamers and decided on the diamondback. I didn't realize it would be so expensive. But still I did it.
For about a week, I was frustrated, prepared to send the nozzle back. That is when I finally went on my journey learning the ins and outs of 3D printing, trying to understand more about the technical details. It was a lot to take in, and you quickly realize that these YouTube influencers, while provide some interesting info, forget that there are newbies out there and that there is no clear "start here" for them.
The first for foremost thing I had to do was get temps under control. The diamondback nozzle is superior in thermal conductivity to other nozzles and that can lead to oozing with higher temps, even if in spec. This also means the filament can get clogged further up the nozzle, which led me to adjust the retraction amount. Then of course adjusting fan speeds, bed temps, z-offset, flow rate, etc. for each filament type. Essentially I have had to create my own profiles for each type of filament and by brand. Since then, I've been running pretty smoothly. It has also led me to sticking to specific brands, simply because I have the profile already defined. I've been able to get great results with PLA and PETG in brands like Elegoo, Anycubic, Sunlu, and Jayo. I've used Polymaker ASA and YXPolyer PC-CF.
I'm sure there is more I could do to tweak, but for now things have been running smoothly and my Core One runs almost every day and night.
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Yes, these nozzles require careful calibration. The stock profiles will get in the way. Once dialed in they are superior to anything else (in my opinion). I have the 0.4,0.6,0.8 for both my Core One and my H2D
RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?
I appreciate all the comments, but none of the changes I've been making to the profile seem to fix things. I've been printing PLA with the Diamondback just fine, but PETG is a complete disaster. I'd really appreciate it if someone who's successfully tweaked the profile for PETG could post what exactly they did! 😄. My current approach of tweaking one thing at a time is getting me nowhere.
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I appreciate all the comments, but none of the changes I've been making to the profile seem to fix things. I've been printing PLA with the Diamondback just fine, but PETG is a complete disaster. I'd really appreciate it if someone who's successfully tweaked the profile for PETG could post what exactly they did! 😄. My current approach of tweaking one thing at a time is getting me nowhere.
Which PETG? Really depends not only on the vendor but sometimes on the color as well. You would usually start by printing a temperature tower, followed by extrusion tests like YOLO, max volumetric flow, retraction etc. You can either use the tests built into OrcaSlicer or use my version of PrusaSlicer - Filament Edition that includes these tests. If I have the same filament I could run the calibrations for you. I don’t print a lot of PETG (hardly ever, I use PCTG instead) so I don’t have any ready-made calibrations to share