Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?  

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

I reduced my extrusion multiplier to 0.92 for PETG-CF, and increase retraction to 1.5mm. It is now delivering the best prints I've ever done, with glassy top layers (I reduce the width of the two top layers to 0.42). I'm quite cuffed with this nozzle overall, and knowing it'll never wear out is a plus!

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

How has this nozzle been running for you with the MMU3? Still good?

Thinking of picking it up to be used with my MK4s/MMU3, and soon to be Core One with MMU3. Mainly print PLA but want to play with some other filaments, like glow etc

Posted by: @vhubbard

Diamondback Nozzles in my MK4 for a year.  Working well.   You can lower temp by 5-10c lower, but I often run without adjusting temp.  ASA, PETG and PLA working well.   I use normal procedures for keeping tip clean, filament in good shape and sheet adhearing well. 

Startup oozing problems eliminated when I installed the MMU3.   Z set is done with no filament loaded.   Filament is unloaded at the end of a print.   

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

The responses seem good, I have ordered 5 of the .4 tips for the XL, and 1 for the K1 Max. I have been looking for one that will fit the K2 Plus, but I haven't had any luck. Does anyone know if they make them for the K2 Plus? Thanks

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

https://a.co/d/4yjsGgo

Looks like they finally have Nextruder Diamondback nozzles available. Pretty hefty at $125.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

Ordered. I have been waiting for this one.  

Posted by: @fallon

https://a.co/d/4yjsGgo

Looks like they finally have Nextruder Diamondback nozzles available. Pretty hefty at $125.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

Yes, I have them on my Prusa XL , all 5 toolheads. So far, they are worth every penny. Prints are coming out amazing, and I love the fact that one nozzle can handle virtually all filaments. As it's a bit of a pain having to swap nozzles everytime you print with a different material. Definitely pricey, but they work great. I have them on my K1 Max and Bambu XIC. I will be adding them to my K2 Plus as soon as they are developed. I spoke with the company and they are trying up production as they can't seem to keep them stock. The K1Max was on backorder for a month before I could get it. If you have the money, I would definitely recommend them.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

I just upgraded the mk3 to a mk3.9. Still not sure if that came with a HF .4 or regular. But I use to have a v6 NozzleX on it.

2 .4mm ObXidians on the XL along with 3 of the original brass ones. Upgraded from the .6mms a while ago.

I keep eyeing up the Diamondbacks, but can't quite justify it yet. ObXidians are doing fine for now & I really don't print more than one abrasive at a time (really only PETG CF). It would be nice to get a nozzle you never have to worry about on every extruder though. I haven't managed to rationalize even one yet though. Less buildup on the nozzles would be nice though.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

I have one on my Voron. It's a fine nozzle, though I can't say I notice a difference as compared to the ObXidian on the Prusas at work. Now, if they could press one out with CHT geometry in pure industrial diamond for under $400, they would corner that niche market. But somehow I doubt that's feasible.

Based on the data available, I think most of the good high end nozzles are really good, and it seems that most of the brand loyalty is from people who had a problem and tried one of them, and it solved their problem. In other words, whichever good nozzle upgrade they happened to try tends to be "OMG, the best".

Personally, I think the Bozzle Nozzle is the right high end idea... Patent issues aside. While not top in some categories (hardness, thermal conductivity, melt surface area, lack of joins, max temp), it is either top or extremely good in all of them. Diamondback and ObXidian are great except for using an insert for their hardened tip... That's a potential fail point that degrades the "it's just always going to work" factor. 

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

Been using them for over a year.  No complaints.  It's the nozzle I use on my MK4S 95% of the time.  On my XL, tool head #1 usually has a diamondback installed as well.  I like the convenience of being able to switch between abrasive and non-abrasive filaments and not worry about nozzle swaps.  I have yet to detect any sign of wear or deterioration.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

Just swapped out my Obxidian 0.4 for a Diamondback 0.4 and so far it is good, less stringing (Not that there was much to begin with) and less oozing when finishing prints which considering it is supposed to have lower friction doesn't make sense, but I'm not complaining.

More testing to do.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

So I got a V6 adapter and Diamond back 0.4 on my Core One. This nozzle is amazing at ASA and PETG. I print about 2% of the time with PETG, not much at all. About 15% of the time with ASA. And 83% PLA. 

I CAN'T get this thing to work with PLA. Either it sucks or I have no idea what I'm doing with it. It's amazingly frustrating to pay a lot for a thing I'm expecting to be awesome, then it either sucks or I can't figure it out. 

The issue that I'm having is since changing the nozzle, PLA will not stick to the build plate. I have the smooth plate that had been working perfectly. Now can't stick almost at all. I have a textured plate that I could never get PLA to stick to in the first place. I also have 2 fancy pants cool guy shiny sparkly smooth PEY plates. One of them has a textured PEI side. 

All of those plates worked amazing for PLA with the stack Core One HF.4 nozzle. Now I can only get large prints to stick to the not-Prusa textured plate. And small prints can't even start on anything. 

I tried adjusting temperatures. Noticed in the temperature towers that the diamond nozzle likes temps about 10° lower than the HF nozzle. I start from high to low and realized that if I print the first layer at 235° it will stick and drop to 215° after that they come out ok. Unless they fail because the print breaks off the plate. That has happened a lot in the past 40+ hours of printing with this nozzle. 

Finally decided to slap my old Ender 3 magnet build plate in the Core One. It seems to be working. Got a print going right now as I type this that failed 8 times on 4 other build plates with all sorts of different settings. 

So what's going on? Am I doing it wrong? Did I miss something? Does the Core One just not like this nozzle?

And before anyone says it, YES the build plates were clean. YES I know how to clean a build plate. YES my filament is good and dry. Everything worked perfect before this nozzle, now I can figure out the easiest material that I use the most. 

Do I just give up on this nozzle? Do I give up on PLA and just print ASA? That's actually turning into my favorite material anyway since I got the Core One. Did I miss something in the settings when I changed the Nozzle ?

Thanks for reading my frustrating rant. God bless. 

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

Very pleased with my diamondback 0.4 on my core one, it prints cleanly, nothing sticks to it, I am currently running high speed petg through it at speeds above non HT nozzles and it works without any complaints, although doing this is having an affect on layer adhesion, reducing it slightly.

Tempted to get the 0.6 nozzle and sell my obxidians.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

Got a Diamond 0.4 nozzle for my Prusa mini.

So far Im not happy with it.

Doing first layer calibration is a bit hard if a blob forms around the nozzle when it is at 190°C and only probing.

And the first tried print?

Cancelled.

Twice.

PLA sticks to it somehow (190°C and 200°C tried for printing. Thanks to Temp-Tower, this should be fine).

So I don't know what I am missing here.Also it takes a suspiciously long time, till filament comes out after loading it.

Longer than Im used to with the stock brass nozzle.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

Try printing on borosilicate glass.

Everything sticks like the proverbial S to a blanket.

I gave up on flexi plate this and that removable plates many years ago. Why do you want to snap off ? a 20 hour print from a hot bed plate instantly after the machine has stopped.

Normally, when I am starting a new print, I clean the glass with 96% alcohol, as the glass stays in place on the machine then very seldom is bed levelling is required.

I print long jobs through the night, and when the print completed in the early hours I can hear the part collapsing off the glass.

My first layers are always a mirror finish.

I have tried every different sales "hype" nozzle. but for me  the old brass  cheapo does me fine.

Ask Prusa what nozzles they use for mass printing there parts.Guessing cheapo brass throwaways.

I have a "hobbs" time clock meter , wired into the machine, it starts when I turn the machine on, as I normally change nozzles for PLA every 80 hours of running. PLA carbon 50 hours.

ABS 40 hours. 

Then I reset the  "hobbs" when swapping nozzles. The time recorded is a guide only. again it works for me.

Less is more, unless you want to make a career in nit picking very good Prusa machines carry on,  but 3D printing is an art, throwing wet plastic at a canvas is not easy, so try painting the Sistine chapel roof on your back for 4 years. 

Michelangelo must have been exhausted. LOL

Again this forum is full of so many complaints, I am positive that Josef Prusa does not manufacture duff machines, so is it a a case

that so many forum members maybe need to follow the prayer, God grant me the strength to change things I can change, the courage to accept the things I cannot change, and importantly the WISDOM to know the difference.

Prusa has always proved" that you can make a silk purse out of a sows ear,"  unfortunately I cannot afford to buy the sow or the cost of shipping the ear.

Again, very sorry Josef, but long term you will get beaten up with your selling prices Tariffs, delivery, customs etc  versus the Chinese. The new Creality CORE K2 ,X 350, Y 350, Z 350,  wow, it even has an automatic filament cutter. The cost to me in Spain, €1300 ,including 4 filament spools, free delivery GARANTEED in 2 days. 

FOOD FOR THOUGHT.

RE:

I don't think it's fair to compare anyone to China. Firstly they're in a different category in the UPU (universal postal union) thus shipping to developed nations is already cheaper. Then the Chinese government also seems to subsidize shipping, making it dirt cheap. For a EU country there's no way to seriously compete with that.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

I certainly would not compare the two.  If we stay on topic instead of talking Creality Printers.  Diamond nozzles for the Nextruder vs Triangle Labs Knock offs.  They are good nozzle but nothing compared to the real thing.  

Posted by: @outofcheese

I don't think it's fair to compare anyone to China. Firstly they're in a different category in the UPU (universal postal union) thus shipping to developed nations is already cheaper. Then the Chinese government also seems to subsidize shipping, making it dirt cheap. For a EU country there's no way to seriously compete with that.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

I wasted multiple hours in trying to dial in printing with the diamondback on my mini.

I have now to stand aside for the entire first layer, scraping awa goops on the nozzle, checking in during the print multiple times...

So great!

A diam9ondback isnt only expensive in money, but also in time it takes.

Im not happy with it at all.

Even if I manage dto get a print out fine, the time investment is just huge now. And constantly going in with some pliers to get the collection of the filament out of the way is just bonkers

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

Posted by: @weichnudel

I have now to stand aside for the entire first layer, scraping awa goops on the nozzle, checking in during the print multiple times...

Your extrusion rate may be too high, also temp. Diamond is a much more bettererer heat transfer medium, so I've found I need to knock off 5 degrees or so.
If you're using Orca, change your first temp flow rate to 0.95 and try again. The problems you identify can be tuned out.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

Doesnt matter, ive changed back to the stock brass nozzole and will send the diamandcrap to ebay.

I wasted enough time and emotions on this thing now.

Not tinkering around with that ever again.

Temp was lowered by 10 degrees. Made a temp tower for it.

And the stuff is oozing out of the nozzle WITHOUT any extrusion. During the probing phase.

So no thanks.

RE: Anyone try Diamondback nozzles?

I have run the single diamondback .4 nozzle for more than 20 months. MK4S and MMU now. I don't adjust temps usually. The advantage with the MMU is the probing is done without filament being loaded. Even before the MMU the oozing wasn't much different than the brass nozzle for me. I consider the oozing more of a Prusa problem not the nozzle. I like to use various materials without having to stop and think about swapping a nozzle.