[Solved] Calibration  

RE: Calibration

Also,

Testing the pinda probe, the red light does go out when using a thin metal ruler is placed under the probe, but the z axis doesn’t change from 0 to 1 as per the troubleshooting procedure.

When Mesh Bed Levelling is selected 16 positions are probed, but when First Layer Calibration is selected only the first 4 positions are probed, then the machine pauses until the temperature is achieved before starting the print.

RE: Calibration

IMG_3518IMG_3523

RE: Calibration

I would suggest you to talk to prusa support, it is a new device and if you have such issues, they would be the right contact to fix or replace things.

If the bed skew is to high or the superpinda is broken, (which could be) they could immediatly send you a replacement.

RE: Calibration

I used Bob Georges test prints and find this method is excellent

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/40729-parametric-bed-level-test-generator

i was getting some roughness on the LHS at -1.850 and it improved at -1.900 z offset. BTW am i right in thinking these are quite extreme offset values ( spring steel sheet ) ? i was expecting to hit the sweet spot before -1.000

IMG_0101

RE: Calibration

@eirlink

That is probably the best first player test I have seen.  I have used it on my Prusa's and my other printers. 

RE: Calibration

@cwbullet

The following at -1.900

RE: Calibration

That Z is ok, but it is a little high.  

RE: Calibration

@cwbullet

should i keep going in the direction of -2.000?

RE: Calibration

I would adjust the pinda down a notch or two and start at zero again.  

RE: Calibration

@cwbullet

adjust the spinda down? 

I checked it by lowering the z axis until the tip of the nozzle is barely touching the bed, and a credit card will not fit under the probe?

RE: Calibration

@eirlink

I have found that if I keep lowering to nearly -2 that if I lower my sPinda and start over that it will make ti less negative.  

RE: Calibration

I just assembled my Mini+ last night and got all the way through to this stage of calibration.   My initial test print looks just like the OP's.  Has anyone else had this problem?   My print nozzle is so far away from the print bed and it seems like when I use the dial to try and get it closer to the bed, it does nothing.  :-\

I'm new to 3D printing and I'm excited to get into it (printing terrain and such for tabletop gaming) but I'm scared I may have messed something up.

RE: Calibration

If you're close to -2 with your Live Z, I would reposition the PINDA higher.

The Super PINDA should have about 1.5 mm distance between nozzle and SPINDA, so that you’re around -1 when your Live Z is correct. (For the old PINDA, it was 0.8mm).

Instructions are in Step 16 of https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-superpinda-mini-mini_179912 (Mini) or
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-superpinda-mk3s-mk3s_179920 (Mk3S)

I put this little helper on Prusaprinters.org to help position the SPINDA: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/57192-spinda-height-adjustment-tool-mounts-into-3030-ext. Works better than zip ties or credit cards, which have less well-defined heights.

RE: Calibration

@fuchsr

would you recommend this one ? its quicker to print

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/56918-super-pinda-spinda-spinda-height-adjustment-tool/files

RE: Calibration

Sure. They're the same, the other one just has the mount for the 3030 extrusion. Functionally they're identical. 

RE: Calibration

@eirlink

That is the one I use.  

RE: Calibration

@fuchsr

I don’t think that is right.  If you go higher with the PINDA, your z offset would become more negative.  Would it not?

RE: Calibration

When the PINDA is higher, the nozzle can go lower (closer to the sheet) before the PINDA triggers, therefore the live z is less negative. 

Feels counterintuitive. Took me a bit to get my head around this...

RE: Calibration

@fuchsr

That is odd.  That is not how my printer works.  I just lowered my Pinda and the Value for Z offset got less negative.