Revo Micro installation on my Mini+  

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

There’s a printable version but be careful with that because I broke my bondtech extruder because of it… but that’s completely my fault… I put too much force to screw the adapter and the thread just snapped when it was all the way in…

I eventually got it out but don’t be like me, be smart

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

Hi @robee-shepherd , do you have the hotend fan connected to the normal fan header or to the updated pins from @oliver-andre to get the full fan speed.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

Posted by: @pickworthi

That looks nice 🙂

Any chance of sharing the ducting mount design? I think I can see your print fan is turned 90 degrees - is that for better results or just looks?

So... I was experimenting (I just need one more thing to test before I release it, the cable mount, hopefully this weekend) and I found the single fan didn't seem to improve much with the new duct design. I created a dual fan option which is why they are 90 degrees. It's a little more involved (you need to split the fan cable somehow, I made an adapter for mine so I could undo it or swap fans easily) but considering what you have to do to fit a Revo not that much more involved.

Annoyingly, the normal fan is being fed 4.6v not 5v on my board (is this normal?) and drops to 4v for two of them. I think that's better than one fan at 5v, but not quite what I was hoping for.

Prusa did not make this easy! At every stage of developing this, something would foul something new I'd not thought about.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

Posted by: @danilov3s

There’s a printable version but be careful with that because I broke my bondtech extruder because of it… but that’s completely my fault… I put too much force to screw the adapter and the thread just snapped when it was all the way in…

I eventually got it out but don’t be like me, be smart

I too tried it, in PETG first then ABS, and mine broke too. The sizing was bad, so I gave up too and decided 3 times trying to remove this broken plastic was enough! The print needs a health warning. 😂

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

I eventually got it out but don’t be like me, be smart

I'm clearly less smart 😞 couldn't get this thing out for the life of me. But I've been pretty happy with the non push through connectors. Yes, there's still a small piece of PTFE tube but I've never had any troubles with those tubes, on the extruder or hotend side. 

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

I bought some push-through PC4-M8 from https://vertex3d.org/en/spare-parts/183-fitting-pc4-m8.html

Works great, both in the extruder end and the hotend on the stock hotend.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

I published my dual fan mod, can't guarantee it's perfect, better than stock, won't break your printer, burn your house down, etc, do at your own risk:

https://www.printables.com/model/205416-prusa-mini-dual-fan-cooling-mod

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

Still have the V1 mount.  Don't like it.  Doesn't seem sturdy enough.  I went from the .4 to the .6 nozzle and I had to increase my hold off from like -1.1 to almost -2.0.  It took me awhile to get the calibration to print right with the big nozzle, considering how far different it was.   Plus with that big nozzle Prusament PETG wants to glom onto the nozzle- a real mess.  Once i got the height dialed in, there was still a tendency to 'die drool' on the nozzle.  I found that using the 0.8 nozzle that I needed to go to 245-250 to get flow right.

Not really happy with this mod.  Want to try other mounts options and get the bog fan back.   I'm running my filament drier so much that the fan sound isn't really an issue.  Once the 0.8 nozzle was in, printing at 0.6 layers helped to about halve the time to print some plant holders for my daughter.  It did seem that it was printing some perimiters reaaaaaluy slowly?  Is there a volumetric limiter somewhere that might be forcing it to slow down?

I also got some bad looking underhangs with Prusa PETG in black.

The stock hotend is not good, I'm not sure this is the best answer.  THe nozzle swap is pretty cool.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

I used the DVA mount (here) and it's pretty sturdy. It also retains the stock Mini cooling fan instead of the tiny E3D Revo one. I also swapped out to the antler cooling ducts at the same time. It's working fairly well overall, though I'm only working with the 0.4 and 0.25 nozzles so far.

I had it mostly tuned and decided to try pushing speeds, now I am running into top layers under extruding. Once I get that resolved it will be off and running.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

I have absolutely no issues with my Revo for any filament other than Prusament, which clogs. I had this before though too. My solution isn't very helpful, it's just not to use Prusament (ironic considering it's a Prusa printer).

I wonder if there is something in this brand of PLA that retains heat so it cools slower (I can imagine that would improve the finish but also potentially raise the likelyhood of heat creep).

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

When it comes to swapping nozzles, what kind of change in offset are you seeing?  I went from the .4 to .8 nozzle and had to move the nozzle about .800.

That seems pretty big to me and starts to reduce the value of 'swappable'.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

Posted by: @milehigh3der

When it comes to swapping nozzles, what kind of change in offset are you seeing?  I went from the .4 to .8 nozzle and had to move the nozzle about .800.

That seems pretty big to me and starts to reduce the value of 'swappable'.

I have seen no difference in Z height with nozzle swaps. I did adjust the Z offset a small amount (0.03mm) for the .8mm nozzle - I think that is because it is just a bigger nozzle and could use a slight adjustment for the extra thick layers. Otherwise I've used 0.25, 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles completely interchangeably.

Needing a .8mm adjustment just sounds wrong - almost 1mm? Possibly it wasn't screwed in fully.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

The current Start Gcode I have (2.4.2) for the mini is nothing like the code that E3D suggests at:

https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/4406857421213-Start-and-End-G-code-for-faster-nozzle-changes

Does anyone have what the relevant changes should be??  I'm not a g-code person.  I think I could wing it, but I'd rather make sure.

Start and end gcode to make the REVO nozzle able to be changed when cold.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

That’s encouraging. I think the reality is that the first nozzle wasn’t screwed in all the way. And that’s why I had the difference. Hard to go back and prove that though.

Posted by: @pickworthi

Posted by: @milehigh3der

When it comes to swapping nozzles, what kind of change in offset are you seeing?  I went from the .4 to .8 nozzle and had to move the nozzle about .800.

That seems pretty big to me and starts to reduce the value of 'swappable'.

I have seen no difference in Z height with nozzle swaps. I did adjust the Z offset a small amount (0.03mm) for the .8mm nozzle - I think that is because it is just a bigger nozzle and could use a slight adjustment for the extra thick layers. Otherwise I've used 0.25, 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles completely interchangeably.

Needing a .8mm adjustment just sounds wrong - almost 1mm? Possibly it wasn't screwed in fully.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

Quick update on my Revo Micro woes. It turned out my thermocouple was broken and after contacting E3d support they replaced it for free and it is now printing well.

If anyone else wants to try it out i have merged together the E3d v2 mounting and and MK3 style ducting. All parts are held with square nuts so it can all be torqued down for a solid mount.

https://www.printables.com/model/224731-prusa-mini-revo-micro-mount-and-duct

Thanks to all who the help in this thread 🙂

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

This didn't seem to work for me. The fan sounds the same. Are you sure it is the black wire to be moved? I wouldn't have thought that moving a ground anywhere else would do anything since it is 0V.

RE:

Yes, it is the black wire. It is always ground being switched on printer mainboards. PWM is done by switching power on and off fast. It does Not matter if the Mosfet disconnect ground or Vcc, as the fan (and the heaters...) need both Vcc and Ground.

But there is one big advantage in switching ground: It is extremly easy to use different voltages, as the permanent ground of all voltages is connected. So with permanent Vcc and switched ground you can simply use another Vcc to connect a fan with another voltage. For example if you want to use 24V for Part cooling fan instead of 5V, just connect the Vcc wire of the fan to permanent 24V;  the ground wire to the PWM ground of the fan connector. Modulating ground makes it much more easy to use different voltages. Some boards from SKR even support selecting Vcc for fans by using a jumper, connecting 5, 12 or 24V to the Vcc pin.

Also  the nMosfet to switch ground is a little cheaper than an pMosfet...

The PWM ground pin of a fan connector is not "0V". It is switching between ground ("0V") and "Not connected".

With my Noctua fan I also hear no difference - as it is extremly quiet even in full speed. Have not checked the Suneon fan of the Revo Micro yet. On my clones (Fystec fan) I clearly hear the difference. On the Prusa Stock fan the difference is extreme.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

Awesome detailed explanation. Thanks.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

I've found a few things over time that may help people changing to the Revo nozzles on the Mini.

1. If you make a new Bowden tube, when you squeeze the brass olive on at the extruder end - it will deform the tube slightly, and slightly restrict the interior diameter. The amount of restriction depends on the quality of the tubing. For example, the Prusa supplied tube has almost no restriction, while a cheaper PTFE tube I got was restricted enough to cause me blocks when unloading filament. I've changed to a length of Capricorn tubing - which is by all accounts very good quality, and this hardly deforms at all. There is a quick fix however - use a 2mm drill bit and a hand drill, and carefully ream out the tubing underneath the olive. Works with all qualities of tubing I have found.
2. I was using the Lichtjaeger mount for some time until I noticed that the heat sink had come loose enough to move when unscrewing a nozzle. Maybe it's because I'm an impatient soul and remove nozzles as soon as the fan stops turning (so 50C ish). The loosening was sufficient to mess with the Z layer adjustment. After finding this, I changed to this mount  which allows the heat sink to be secured with the E3D supplied plastic nut. There may be a way to make sure the heat sink does not ever come loose in a screw in mount, like Lichtjaeger or even the E3D V2 mount, but it seems to me that there will always be a risk of loosening. Anyway, if your Z adjustment starts looking off - something to look for.
3. On one occasion, when screwing in a nozzle, the lip of the eat break join fouled on the heater core spring. This lead to the nozzle being just shy on 1mm to low, which resulted in a very exciting time trying to avoid wrecking the print surface. Someone else posted a while back that they saw a .8mm difference between nozzles. While this could be caused by just not screwing the nozzle all the way in - my experience is that it is also possible the spring gives you the impression that it is in all the way, but stopped on the spring itself. A simple way to avoid this is always to visually inspect the seating of the nozzle onto the heat break. It's now part of my nozzle change routine.

It is totally possible that I am blessed with finding problems that only happen to me 😆. However, I thought I'd share, since these little things can ruin your day if not caught.

RE: Revo Micro installation on my Mini+

I'll second the DVA mount suggestion. That's the one I went with and it has worked well for me. Yes, you have to cut the bowden tube just above the olive, but that has not been an issue on my printer. I also took advantage of the the fact I was tearing apart the Z carriage anyway and replaced the back part also with the antler duct carriage.

I am not so sure the Capricor tube is all that much better. It works great, until it doesn't. I had it on a different printer (Voron Trident) for my reverse bowden. It worked great right up until it didn't. I started getting weird extruder skipping and/or nozzle clogging behavior. I pulled the Capricorn out and replaced with regular 3mm ID PTFE and the drag on the filament went WAY down. Pushing a piece of filament through the removed Capricorn I could feel lots of drag now. Seems like the tight ID causes it to wear and be worse than plain old PTFE after a while. The Capricorn is pretty though.