I've gotten my Revo Micro working flawlessly....took some time, but here is what I did.  

I've gotten my Revo Micro working flawlessly....took some time, but here is what I did.

Keep in mind this is what worked for me, I had many challenges in the begining , but I wasn't willing to give up on the micro, I loved the idea of quick easy nozzle changes so I did a lot of work and  I will summarize in this post. For what it is worth I made zero changes to any retraction or filament settings in slicer.

First thing was to baseline my printer before any changes. I had a mosquito hot and the quite frankly was rock solid, better than stock and working perfectly. My PEI sheet was not in the greatest shape, but it worked with that hot end so I kept it along for the change initially, more on that later.

After changing to the Revo Micro there were quite a few challenges that I had. First was heat creep. I used this mount after trying the stock one ( https://www.printables.com/model/139413-prusa-mini-revo-micro-upgrade). I liked the idea of not cutting my bowden tube and have the ability to revert back if I needed to.  Secondly I also changed the fan to be on 100% all the time, it is not ideal in terms of noise, but it doesn't bother me that much.  See this post by Oliver-Andre for reference to that change ( https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/postid/604340/)

These two changes eliminated my heat creep ( printing mostly in PLA is where I had heat creep, not in PETG)

Next, what I was facing were some issues with the filament oozing and causing a mess on the first layer and even some failures on prints. This was due to a combination of things on my printer. First I adjusted the prime line. It would ended up oozing so muich that it would curl onto the the nozzle. In addition the location was off on my settings and it would miss the print bed ( could be some other issue, not sure) I corrected it by changing the location and adjusting the height of the prime line .

G1 Y4 X179 F2400 ; prime line location

G1 Z0.5 F720 ; prime line height

and in my ending G-code I changed the retract line to this:

G1 E-10 F800 ; retract

This provided a two-fold benefit eliminated oozing in the beginning and it also pulled the filament back and additional 9mm so that the nozzle could be swapped without unloading filament.

I also modified the bed leveling temp to 160 instead of 170 here to help slow down oozing:

M104 S160 ; set extruder temp for bed leveling

M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp

M109 R160 ; wait for bed leveling temp

Next was to correct that change in the start g-code, so what I did was to add back that additional retraction length in the other intro line parameters here

G1 X110 E13 F900

G1 X40 E15 F700

Credit for this goes to Dora_Nku on reddit from this post is here he does a much better job of summarizing the changes that I did: https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/te2jqy/g1_in_gcode_script_through_octoprint_doesnt_move/i0o041y/

So far so good right ??? WRONG! I still had adhesion issues even though the nozzle was not getting gunked up during the start of a print. I decided it was time to replace the PEI sheet. I had a satin sheet that was sitting for a while and didn't have much success with it using PLA. I decided to setup my Z-calibration with the Satin sheet again and see if it worked. The problem I had before was that the Z value was very different compared to the one I was used to, but it really wasn't a problem it was sort of my own thinking, its didn't seem right, even though the super pinda was at the correct height. I ended letting go of that though and using the larger values to get the right squish and successfully got that sheet to work with PLA. AWESOME!

After testing with all these modifications everything seemed to work great with the .4 nozzle and PLA. I swapped over to PETG , and got the same results , great first layers, not nozzle gunk and success! Next was to test other nozzles, so I swapped through all 4 and got great results on everything. No Z-calibration was required between nozzles. I also was able to use TPU without any changes to calibration on the satin sheet.

So in summary:

used a different adapter

modified the fan speed to be always on

adjusted the prime line parameters for location and correction of retraction

retracted the filament at the end an additional 9mm

used a new Satin sheet for all my filaments.

I hope that this is helpful for someone else, it may or may not solve all your challenges but I felt it was important top document and share with the community.

Cheers,

Kevman