LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
I'd like to anounce my quick release for the LCD-Cable
See LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
Any feedback is welcome
RE: LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
Why not use a db25? They only cost like 2 bucks.
RE: LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
What is "db25" ?
RE: LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
What is "db25" ?
wbr,
Karl
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.
RE: LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
Why not use a db25? They only cost like 2 bucks.
Because Prusa-LCD comes with two 10-pin ICD-Connectors. So using the extension (which cost about 6€ with all parts) is the simplest, hasslefree solution.
RE:
(@karl-herbert) Sure, thanks. I know db25 connectors, but I could not believe, this was meant, because they do not fit to the Prusa-LCD.
RE: LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
(@karl-herbert) Sure, thanks. I know db25 connectors, but I could not believe, this was meant, because they do not fit to the Prusa-LCD.
Why would you add a quick disconnect to the prusa lcd when it already uses a quick disconnect? Add it to the control box where you actually need tools to get to the disconnect.
RE: LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
Why would you add a quick disconnect to the prusa lcd when it already uses a quick disconnect?
When you want to move the printer out of the enclosure, it is really a hassle, because the LCD-Cable has to be moved through an opening and below the enclosure to the front, which requires to lift the whole enclosure while the printer is inside. (And according to the enclosure mounting instructions the LCD cable should be fixed with nylon ties, which makes it more evil).
Please have a look at the photos attached to my model, then maybe you'll unterstand the problem and the solution. 🙂
RE: LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
Why would you add a quick disconnect to the prusa lcd when it already uses a quick disconnect?
When you want to move the printer out of the enclosure, it is really a hassle, because the LCD-Cable has to be moved through an opening and below the enclosure to the front, which requires to lift the whole enclosure while the printer is inside. (And according to the enclosure mounting instructions the LCD cable should be fixed with nylon ties, which makes it more evil).
Please have a look at the photos attached to my model, then maybe you'll unterstand the problem and the solution. 🙂
I understand the problem. Just trying to help you with a better solution. If you add the db25 to the control box, you disconnect the cable there and pull the printer out without any cables dangling. If you do the same for the psu, with say a panel mount aviation connector, then all your disconnects are in the same spot, instead of one in the back, one in the front, and you don't have any cables to get snagged pulling the printer out.
RE: LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
I understand the problem. Just trying to help you with a better solution. If you add the db25 to the control box, you disconnect the cable there and pull the printer out without any cables dangling.
Although I'm happy with my solution, I'm interested in yours. Have you made a post describing everything in detail? Because you'll need a lot of soldering. Do you have a wiring diagram or similar?
RE: LCD-Cable-Quick-Release for Original Prusa Enclosure
Although I'm happy with my solution, I'm interested in yours. Have you made a post describing everything in detail? Because you'll need a lot of soldering. Do you have a wiring diagram or similar?
For the db25, no soldering is needed if you use the right connector. They have sharp copper prongs that bite into the ribbon cable. If you want use an aviation connector for the psu, that's just 2 wire pairs, an additional pair if you're using the power panic. Use an 8 pin or higher if you want extra wires for a fan or led strip but that's not necessary. GX16 should do. Either way, you shouldn't need a wiring diagram. Just make sure your wires match up on both sides of the connector. It's just a pass-through.