Wipe Tower Settings for differant Plates ?
Hi
Is there different settings for the wipe tower depending on which Plate you are using ? At the moment I am using the default settings in Prusaslicer.
Now the long version:
I have a MK4S, using PrusaSlicer 2.9.2 presently. I was using earlier versions had the same results. I've only had the MK4S for a few months and when I first received it I printed some parts using PETG and they came out perfect, but a bear to get off the plate, I was using the Smooth PEI sheet, well come to find out it is suggested for PETG to use the Steel sheet, so I purchased a new one, went through cleaning it good and it worked perfect for PETG no more struggles to remove prints. I end up using the steel sheet for pla too and once cool the prints come off nicely.
But now that I am using the MMU3 and a Wipe Tower, printing with PLA and using the Steel Plate the wipe tower constantly fails either right away or in the middle of a print, the edges of the wipe tower lifts causing it to come loose and even one time stuck to the print head and created a mess to say the least. How ever the print / model sticks just fine. I re-clean and even change position of wipe tower and it don't make a difference.
But I switched back to the smooth plate and have No issues with the wipe tower or prints sticking to the plate.
I prefer the steel plate most of the time since prints come off easy compared to the smooth plate. So I am thinking I am missing something somewhere ???
Attached are a couple of the failed towers, also the same print on the smooth plate with out problems.
OK.. I am lost as how to attach photos here... seems I can only attach One.
RE: Wipe Tower Settings for differant Plates ?
@billb
The answer to your problem may be as simple as Glue stick, for both the smooth PEI sheet and the other I'm guessing textured sheet? This should give you the adhesion you need for the textured sheet, and the release you need for the Smooth sheet, and yes it works like that 😉.
If your not having problems with the print itself, only the wipe tower, you can just use the glue stick in the area of the wipe tower.
A glue stick should have been included with your printer, if I'm not mistaken. Give this a try and see how it works.
Now A word on Glue use:
Some folks don't like the glue stick because it can cause a look of texture on the bottom of the print if not applied evenly, however this can be remedied by gently wiping over the glue area with a warm damp cloth or paper towel, to spread it more evenly. There are however even better solutions on the market, products such as "Majigoo" and "Layerneer bed weld" are available and most definitely work better then glue stick. Layerneer is my personal favorite, I've had very good experiences with it, one application is good for several prints, same with Magigoo, if using glue stick I would clean after each use.
If you have glue stick I will suggest trying that first, then decide if you want to move to a different more printing specific product.
There is more information that can be given about how to clean your bed as well.
I hope this helps you, let us know.
Regards
RE: Wipe Tower Settings for differant Plates ?
I do have Magigoo, but I have only used it on extreme prints with fine lines on the first layer or when all else fails, or when the fault of the filament. It is only the wipe tower that does not stick well and I was thinking about using the glue... but to me if you have to use glue something else might need addressing so I just end up using the smooth sheet. I have another printer that uses a wipe tower and uses the same type of texture sheet with out any problems using Prusaslicer. Being clean is not an issue. Because remember if I just do a print using Pla on the texture sheet it will stick very well, even when the slicer complains about using a brim, another thing I don't like using, and typically don't and don't have any adhesion issues, I just lower the first layer speed there, but a lot of variables there as well.
I'm just wondering if it might be a heat bed issue where it might not be keeping it hot enough in the back part after a few hours of printing, maybe put the wipe tower in the front and see, shouldn't make a difference should it ?
Being that the steel plate is textured
RE: Wipe Tower Settings for differant Plates ?
Sorry, I don't own an MK4 and never will, my understanding from reading PRUSA's rhetoric is that the MK4 will always lay the perfect first layer, if this is true that couldn't possibly be the problem ?(BTW I'm not implying its not a good machine). I have several MK3 series printers, and they are good. I could tell you from the one image you posted what I see, the extrusions look over extruded, and I would guess that your purging may be even more over extruded, possibly pulling on the previously laid extrusions, on a sheet type that has been known to have slightly less ability to hold, and you are reporting as such. You can adjust for over extrusion, and I could teach you a thing or two that I'll bet you don't know about cleaning a build plate. Me, I always go for what works, If I have a way to fix it, Layerneer in my case, It's getting used. But if you want to fight the fight, whatever you perceive that to be, have at it. However your bottle of magigoo will make it go away. Frankly it could be as simple as a finger or thumb print on the build plate.
I do wish you luck,
Regards
RE: Wipe Tower Settings for differant Plates ?
Hi From what I understand Under the Wipe tower group settings, there is a setting "Extra flow for purging" default setting is 250% So I'm thinking maybe that might have something to do with it ? but I have no idea what the setting would be. I tried looking it up but didn't find any info.
As far as cleaning the build plates, when new or when I use the other side, and every now and then, I have used dawn dish soap, rinse well, then use compress air to help dry, and then use a clean cloth dampened with Acetone giving a quick wipe, I handle the plate like a vinyl record, then just before printing I start pre-heat and while it is heating up I then use 91/92% IPA and wipe the plate down good, then before every print I clean using just the alcohol. But sometimes depending on what the print is and if I did not touch the build plate with my fingers I skip cleaning with out any issues. I do my best trying to keep the plate clean... fingerprints are easily seen on the smooth plate so that gives you an idea how just a simple touch can cause problems. And yeah if I miss a spot and the filament didn't stick right I would just stop, re-clean, and start again.
RE: Wipe Tower Settings for differant Plates ?
Ok, it sounds like your cleaning and trying very hard, that is good. Now I'll explain what was proved to me by my teacher, I was taught to rinse my build sheets (all of them) with only 212°F (100°C) + boiling water, pinching the top corner and pouring the boiling water over the surface to be printed on, normally over the sink, (obviously don't scald yourself) then place the build plate on the clean dish towel immediately after, folding over the corner of the dish towel to hold it steady (It's Hot!), and wiping it dry with a clean paper towel, or clean (not used previously) cloth rag. I tend to use a paper towel. Then handling the plate like a vinyl record (It's Still very hot), and placing it on the bed and its ready to print, nothing added, it's ready to go. Nothing added after the fact, the heat has put the build surface in a state that allows all residue to be removed by the towel wiping. I only use 91% IPA in between prints and only if I perceive residue on the build plate. Acetone is only used on the Smooth PEI sheet to rejuvenate the sheet, not to clean it, and is not used on any other version of the sheets.
As far as the extrusion goes you will have to test (play with) the purge tower "Extra flow for purging" and see how it reacts with the filaments your using, it's very specific to your filament and the environment your printing in. You need to determine that for yourself. (Speed of print can be a factor)
Once again knowing all this, you may decide to just use the glue you have on hand, Magigoo is not a bad choice, and your not loosing anything by completing your print this way, it doesn't make you a failure. It's the right choice.
I really hope this information helps you, you seem to be caught up in this trap that newer users get in, you have leeway, you don't need to fight it, we got here by doing what works.
As a Note:
The universe knows, well over a decade ago I wish I had these choices. (meaning the product we have available to us today)
I don't know what else to tell you because I'm not there with you, I've already been through all of this and more. As well I have experience with the nextruder from helping some folks I know make their XL machines work properly, but I don't think you have an extruder problem, I see this as an adhesion problem.
But I'm just a grumpy old man with a tremendous amount of printing experience, for whatever that's worth 😉 .
Regards
RE: Wipe Tower Settings for differant Plates ?
Well "grumpy" thanks for all the info on your cleaning process, I'm going to have try using that method but I'm not all that coordinated any more... as I am just a grumpy old guy as well but learning...
RE: Wipe Tower Settings for differant Plates ?
Welcome to the club, we have jackets 🤣