Creality CR-X Printer Configuration & Settings for Prusa Slicer  

RE: Creality CR-X Printer Configuration & Settings for Prusa Slicer

Cant comment on the printer profile but the default support settings are just wrong.  They normally get set to 0.1 contact z distance.  Change it to 0.2 or 0.25 (assuming you have a 0.4 nozzle fitted) and they will remove much easier.  

RE: Creality CR-X Printer Configuration & Settings for Prusa Slicer

Ok, I know this thread is over a year old but I need some help.  I've ordered a CR-X and would very much like to use it with Prusa.  I can't believe it's been over a year and Prusa still hasn't added it to their profile list.  Regardless....if I understand the OP, he put it in as an Artillery Sidewinder, but Neophyl said he needed to change the default support contact Z distance to 0.2-0.25 to make the supports easier to remove ???
Since it's been over a year, has anybody found out any additional info that will help me out using the CR-X with Prusa ?  I've recently switched over from Cura (using and Ender 3), and hate to think I need to go back to Cura to use my new printer.

Have not seen CR-X support

Posted by: @retrfdarson

Ok, I know this thread is over a year old but I need some help.  I've ordered a CR-X and would very much like to use it with Prusa.  I can't believe it's been over a year and Prusa still hasn't added it to their profile list.

All of the 3rd party printer presets are user-contributed. It's bad enough that companies like Creality offload their customers to other companies like Prusa for support and don't contribute to development costs themselves. To expect other companies to also foot the bill for supporting their printers is a bit of an overreach. If a preset is to be included, someone's going to have to spend the time it takes to develop it.

Regardless....if I understand the OP, he put it in as an Artillery Sidewinder, but Neophyl said he needed to change the default support contact Z distance to 0.2-0.25 to make the supports easier to remove ???

That's pretty standard for removable supports with any FFF printer. 0.25mm z contact distance makes them much easier to remove.

Since it's been over a year, has anybody found out any additional info that will help me out using the CR-X with Prusa ?  I've recently switched over from Cura (using and Ender 3), and hate to think I need to go back to Cura to use my new printer.

You might ask in one of the Creality support forums. I've not seen the CR-X specifically described here. I was able to get PrusaSlicer working with my Artillery Sidewinder X1 without too much fuss. The CR-X is apparently supported in Simplify 3D, so perhaps you can get ahold of a profile there and use it as the basis for creating a preset for PrusaSlicer. I'm sure a lot of other CR-X users would appreciate your contribution!

Possible quick start to producing your own custom printer preset

A couple of notes on creating a printer preset:

• If you are using Creality's slicer and getting good results, you should be able to extract the start gcode from a saved gcode file using a text editor. This can give you a head start on creating the custom start gcode in PrusaSlicer. Watch out for differences with M82/M83 absolute or relative extrusion mode.
• If you attach to your printer with a serial terminal interface, the M503 command will dump the hardware parameters saved in firmware. These may be complete garbage unless the manufacturer spent the time actually tuning them. If you're using custom firmware, you can copy settings out of your header files. These go into the Machine limits tab (Printer Settings->Machine limits) in PrusaSlicer. I cranked back the firmware defaults significantly (e.g., acceleration from 9,000 to 1,000, jerk from 20 to 8) until I got a decent print, then tuned from there.

I don't have any experience with dual-extruder setups, so can't help you much there, unfortunately. Start with adding an extruder (Printer Settings->Capabilities->Extruders) and go from there. Good luck with it!

Edit: Going by your username, are you able to chime in with some good information on fire safety tips? There's a lot of vague information out there.

Thanks !!!!

Thx for the info, but it doesn't really help me.  I have ALMOST NO idea about programing stuff or what all those codes mean,  I can barely load Marlin stuff.

As for helping with fire safety stuff, I'm more than happy to help.  I worked 26 yrs in a capitol city FD, with the last 13 yrs assigned to the Fire Marshal's Office as a fire investigator.  Retired a little over a year ago.

I'll reply here if I spot a CR-X PrusaSlicer in the wild

Posted by: @retrfdarson

Thx for the info, but it doesn't really help me.  I have ALMOST NO idea about programing stuff or what all those codes mean,  I can barely load Marlin stuff.

No worries. Let me know if you want to give it a go sometime and I'll help where I can.

As for helping with fire safety stuff, I'm more than happy to help.  I worked 26 yrs in a capitol city FD, with the last 13 yrs assigned to the Fire Marshal's Office as a fire investigator.  Retired a little over a year ago.

I sent you a private message. I see a lot of dangerous or legally questionable advice being given out in other 3D printing forums (often kids responding to kids) and would like to put up a list of answers to common questions from a qualified source for anybody asking. Your input would be most appreciated!

Have you tried one of the Creality single extruder presets?

Hey, quick thought. Have you tried one of the Creality single extruder presets available in the Configuration Assistant? If you can get a good single filament print using one of those, try adding a 2nd extruder and saving that out as a custom profile. Again, I unfortunately don't have any multi-extruder experience, but @joantabb and others certainly do and might be able to help with the small details once you've got the basics working.

FWIW - Cura has a CR-X profile

Just noticed Cura has a profile for the CR-X. You can use that for now, and it should provide the information you need to create a PrusaSlicer profile.

Profile

Posted by: @bobstro

Just noticed Cura has a profile for the CR-X. You can use that for now, and it should provide the information you need to create a PrusaSlicer profile.

A friend has the CR-X and that profile works well.  

Happy To Help

Posted by: @bobstro

Posted by: @retrfdarson

Thx for the info, but it doesn't really help me.  I have ALMOST NO idea about programing stuff or what all those codes mean,  I can barely load Marlin stuff.

No worries. Let me know if you want to give it a go sometime and I'll help where I can.

As for helping with fire safety stuff, I'm more than happy to help.  I worked 26 yrs in a capitol city FD, with the last 13 yrs assigned to the Fire Marshal's Office as a fire investigator.  Retired a little over a year ago.

I sent you a private message. I see a lot of dangerous or legally questionable advice being given out in other 3D printing forums (often kids responding to kids) and would like to put up a list of answers to common questions from a qualified source for anybody asking. Your input would be most appreciated!

 

I got your PM, but for some reason it said I could not reply back to you.  Like I said, I'm more than happy to help out the best I can, but I probably will not have time to monitor another forum/site/page.  Not sure how that affects your plans, but I'll do what I can.

Fire safety FAQ

Posted by: @retrfdarson

 I got your PM, but for some reason it said I could not reply back to you.  Like I said, I'm more than happy to help out the best I can, but I probably will not have time to monitor another forum/site/page.  Not sure how that affects your plans, but I'll do what I can.

Probably because of your new status. As you post a few things, it should kick in and allow you to reply and send PMs.

I was thinking of a static FAQ page (my site is all static content), so no ongoing maintenance or replies required unless you're OK with posting a link for people to contact you. These are the big questions I have:

• Assuming thermal runaway checks are enabled, how safe is a printer at 190-230C/446F left alone? I assume it's like a stove: Best to have a smoke alarm and be around to hear it. In a lot of the forums, there are dozens of posts from new users that regularly fire off an all-day print and come home, often to a complete mess of filament that could have jammed up badly. Are there non-obvious "things that often go wrong" to consider?
• What other environmental safety factors should be considered? Storage of alcohol & acetone, placing the printer on an Idea Lack (pasteboard) enclosure, etc. (Maybe a top 5 Stupid 3D Printer Tricks?)
• What are the practical concerns from an insurance perspective? If a fire is found to be caused by a 3D printer, are there limits or possible rejection of insurance claims?
• How critical is UL listing for insurance purposes? Do other certifications matter? Can you lose fire insurance coverage if it's discovered you used an unlisted power supply in otherwise safe conditions?

If you're OK with it, I'd just like to put together a 3D Printer Fire Safety FAQ with your answers and credentials just so I can point people to qualified answer instead of having them trust the response from the high school kid next door. A contact link is optional, and I'd definitely give you author credits on the page. My site is not monetized in any way, so there's not profit to be made.

RE: Creality Printers

To add to what Boobstro indicated - Research that printer.  A lot of Creality printers need to be ubdated with a bootloader to put in thermal runaway protection.  With that brand, do not assumer anything.  

Fire Safety FAQ

Posted by: @bobstro

Posted by: @retrfdarson

 I got your PM, but for some reason it said I could not reply back to you.  Like I said, I'm more than happy to help out the best I can, but I probably will not have time to monitor another forum/site/page.  Not sure how that affects your plans, but I'll do what I can.

Probably because of your new status. As you post a few things, it should kick in and allow you to reply and send PMs.

I was thinking of a static FAQ page (my site is all static content), so no ongoing maintenance or replies required unless you're OK with posting a link for people to contact you. These are the big questions I have:

• Assuming thermal runaway checks are enabled, how safe is a printer at 190-230C/446F left alone? I assume it's like a stove: Best to have a smoke alarm and be around to hear it. In a lot of the forums, there are dozens of posts from new users that regularly fire off an all-day print and come home, often to a complete mess of filament that could have jammed up badly. Are there non-obvious "things that often go wrong" to consider?
• What other environmental safety factors should be considered? Storage of alcohol & acetone, placing the printer on an Idea Lack (pasteboard) enclosure, etc. (Maybe a top 5 Stupid 3D Printer Tricks?)
• What are the practical concerns from an insurance perspective? If a fire is found to be caused by a 3D printer, are there limits or possible rejection of insurance claims?
• How critical is UL listing for insurance purposes? Do other certifications matter? Can you lose fire insurance coverage if it's discovered you used an unlisted power supply in otherwise safe conditions?

If you're OK with it, I'd just like to put together a 3D Printer Fire Safety FAQ with your answers and credentials just so I can point people to qualified answer instead of having them trust the response from the high school kid next door. A contact link is optional, and I'd definitely give you author credits on the page. My site is not monetized in any way, so there's not profit to be made.

Until it'll let me reply to PM's, I'll post here.  I have no problem with anyone cut/paste any info I provide.  I've only been 3D printing for less than a year, so obviously I'm not an expert on things like "top 5 mistakes to avoid", but like I said, I can provide other info.

"Technically" you should never leave any appliance (even your tv) operating when you are not around to monitor it.  However, we all know that is impossible to do. Don't get me started on leaving stoves and clothes dryers operating unattended, lol.  Anyway,

** Assuming thermal runaway checks are enabled, how safe is a printer at 190-230C/446F left alone? I assume it's like a stove: Best to have a smoke alarm and be around to hear it. In a lot of the forums, there are dozens of posts from new users that regularly fire off an all-day print and come home, often to a complete mess of filament that could have jammed up badly. 

Since most of these printers are manufactured overseas, where quality control is questionable, it is always best not to leave the printers operating when unattended.  Having smoke detectors in the same room as the printer is an excellent idea to give notice if something goes wrong, whether you are home or not.  Ideally, the smoke detector should be linked to the other smoke detectors in the house, and linked to a monitored  alarm system that will send emergency personnel if you are not home.  Depending on the age of the house it might already smoke detectors installed throughout the house, and linked to each other.  However depending where people setup there print stations, it may not be near an installed smoke detector.   Installing a "linked" smoke detector near the device is best, however, at a bare minimum you should install a battery operated unit near the device.   A lot of people have a battery operated unit mounted directly over their printer.  Personally, I love that idea, and think it's probably a "bare minimum safe practice".  In addition, there are tons of small, self contained, automatic extinguishing devices available that mount over your stove, under your car hood, etc.  I highly recommend having one of those mounted directly over your printer as well.  Just do your research and make sure you buy the appropriate device for the application.  Googling "stove top fire extinguisher" will bring up a ton of choices and you can expand out from there.

A little off topic, but kind of still related, I always recommend to have portable "ABC" fire extinguishers located in each bedroom, and strategically located throughout the house (in case something happens elsewhere, or you can't get to an extinguisher in a bedroom).  Class K extinguishers are needed in the kitchen due to the nature of modern cooking oils.  People should also know how to use a fire extinguisher.  Almost all fire departments can easily teach you, and there are also videos on line that hopefully people can learn from.  You be surprised how much fire can be put out with a fire extinguisher and somebody that knows how to use it.

**Are there non-obvious "things that often go wrong" to consider?

Most definitely.  I know Creality had an issue not long ago where the wire connectors between the power supply and printer were faulty, and began to melt.  Eventually, those connectors were going to short circuit and catch fire.  Not mention, ANYTHING electronic can fail and cause a fire at any time.  Also, people have pets.  pets can jump on the printer, knocking it over, breaking something, etc.  There are plenty of hazards that people don't really think about, but I always go back to "common sense".  If you look at something, and it bothers you, you should probably follow your instincts and do something about it.

**What other environmental safety factors should be considered? Storage of alcohol & acetone, placing the printer on an Idea Lack (pasteboard) enclosure, etc. (Maybe a top 5 Stupid 3D Printer Tricks?)

Again, I'm going back to common sense.  Alcohol of any type (even ISA), acetones, paints, paint thinners, etc should not be stored anywhere near any electronics...period.  It's too easy to spill something into an electronic device, which will cause a short, and now likely cause a fire due to the liquids flammability.   Ideally, they need to be stored in a metal container with a lid.  Also, do not ball up the rags you use with them, and through them into a container.  They have the potential for "spontaneous combustion"......especially if the container is in direct sunlight or stored in a hot environment.  I'm also going to mention this here.  Electronic devices that have the potential for high current draw (refrigerators, microwaves, toaster ovens, coffee pots, and even our printers) should NOT be connected to extension cords.  They should be plugged directly into a wall outlet (keeping the circuit's rating in mind...15a, 20a, etc).  If it has to be on an extension cord, it needs to be on a cord rated for "appliance use".  They are typically larger gauge wire, and can handle the load.  Also, don't use them in "power strips".  They aren't rated for that much draw, and might fail...even the ones with circuit breakers.  If you must use one, spend the extra money and get one rated for higher current draw.  It's still not ideal, and might fail, but the chances are less than if you use a $15-20 unit.  Personally, I think the printers need to be hooked into an "uninterruptable power supply" or "battery back up" unit.  They can withstand the current draw of the printers and their accessories, and have the added benefit of a quality circuit breaker, and the battery back up for power failures.  In addition, no electronic device should covered up, surrounded by, or left on any type of clothing, cloth, styrofoam, etc.  ALL devices generate heat, and have the potential to overheat....even more so if covered up or insulated in any way.  You have no idea how many fires are caused by laptops left running, and left on somebody's bed for several hours.

**What are the practical concerns from an insurance perspective? If a fire is found to be caused by a 3D printer, are there limits or possible rejection of insurance claims? 

The best answer for that is to ask your insurance agent.  Policies, coverage, limits, etc vary so much from state to state, there's no way I can answer that.  However, most insurance companies will pay for your stupidity ONCE.  After all, that's why you have insurance.  If the fire is determined to be caused by the the printer (or any other electronic device), the insurance company can subrogate against the manufacturer.  Regardless of what the local officials determine to be the origin and cause of the fire, the insurance company WILL send out their own fire investigator to look at the scene.  Those guys are sharp, and don't fall for a lot of BS, lol.  I worked for an insurance company for a few years as a fire investigator.  

**How critical is UL listing for insurance purposes? Do other certifications matter? Can you lose fire insurance coverage if it's discovered you used an unlisted power supply in otherwise safe conditions?

Well, as said above, check with your insurance company.  UL listed devices IN THEORY should be safer than appliances that aren't.  However, there are still [lenty of very safe devices on the market that aren't UL listed.  That just means they didn't pay the pay the testing fee (typically in the millions of $$$) to have the device tested & certified by Underwriters Laboratories.  It's a $$$$ game.

All of this is pretty basic answers, but I hope it helps.  If you need other info, just ask.  I'm more than happy to help even if my info only prevents 1 fire.

Excellent info, thanks!

Posted by: @retrfdarson

 [...] All of this is pretty basic answers, but I hope it helps.  If you need other info, just ask.  I'm more than happy to help even if my info only prevents 1 fire.

Perfect, thanks. I'll write this up and send you a link to review before I post it. Probably next week. Thanks again!

RE: Creality CR-X Printer Configuration & Settings for Prusa Slicer

Hello. 

I'm Using Prusa Slicer with my CRX for a while, based on the CR10 Pro profile. 

It works very well in mono extrusion. (CRX is just A CR10 Pro with a second Extruder). 

I stayed whith Cura for my Dual Extrusion prints. (But I clearly prefer PrSlicer)

I've just tried PrusaSlicer 2.4.0 Beta 1 and the multimaterial Painting is just ... Awesome ! Really what I always dreamed. 

Exit Meshmixer (for this purpose). 

Here's my point : 

Ok to import some of the Cura's G-Codes in PrusaSlicer, it works well. 

BUT : 

It can't work for the "Tool Change" Gcode. 

Prusa Slicer has One Entry window for the Tool Change G-Code, in the "Custom G-code" Entrys. 

Cura uses 2 windows : "Left Extruder" and "Right Extruder" Start and End G-Code For the tool Change opération. 

Here are those G codes working for a CR-X : 

LEFT EXTRUDER 

START G-Code : 

T0 ;switch to extruder 1

G92 E0 ;reset extruder distance

G1 F2000 E93 ;load filament

G92 E0 ;reset extruder distance

M104 S{material_print_temperature}

 

END G-Code

G92 E0 ;reset extruder distance

G1 F800 E-5 ;short retract

G1 F2400 X295 Y265 ;move near prime tower

G1 F2000 E-93 ;long retract for filament removal

G92 E0 ;reset extruder distance

G90

 

RIGHT EXTRUDER

START G-CODE

T1 ;switch to extruder 2

G92 E0 ;reset extruder distance

G1 F2000 E93 ;load filament

G92 E0 ;reset extruder distance

M104 S{material_print_temperature}

 

END G-CODE

G92 E0 ;reset extruder distance

G1 F800 E-5 ;short retract

G1 F2400 X295 Y265 ;move near prime tower

G1 F2000 E-93 ;long retract for filament removal

G92 E0 ;reset extruder distance

G90

So, 

It appears that those G codes are the same, except for 1 line, at the "Start G-Code", That Replace "T0" by "T1". 

How to adapt those Codes for the Prusaslicer's Tool change custom G-code ? 

If someone Can share a solution G-Code, I'm just a noob in coding 😓  ? 

Precisions : 

- Those codes are custom codes, community mades, because nothing was working whith the CRX and Cura whith Creality's codes at the beginning. 

Sources : 

https://www.lesimprimantes3d.fr/forum/topic/17677-cr-x-pas-de-profil-dans-cura/?do=findComment&comment=274229

(I'm Al Vinz)

And : 

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/creality-cr-x/forums/general/topic:33324

- I'm absolutely volunteer to test any suggestions at my own risks. 

Thank you for your help.