RE: CORE One L Kit interest
I only buy kits.
As a mechanical Engineeer I want to understand the construction and become a feeling for possible issues.
For plug & play I can buy a Bambu. Something I want to prevent.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
Unfortunately, due to the design and EU laws Prusa are not planning on releasing a kit form of the CORE One L in the foreseeable future.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
I only buy kits.
As a mechanical Engineeer I want to understand the construction and become a feeling for possible issues.
For plug & play I can buy a Bambu. Something I want to prevent.
Then either buy a Core One+ kit or source the parts and build a Voron.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
Then either buy a Core One+ kit or source the parts and build a Voron.
So you are saying the Voron has a INDX version coming out that is the same build design as a core one?
Core one is not a 'L'
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
Then either buy a Core One+ kit or source the parts and build a Voron.
So you are saying the Voron has a INDX version coming out that is the same build design as a core one?
Core one is not a 'L'
The INDX was first demonstrated on a Voron. So yes, the INDX will work on a Trident or V0.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
I hope the Core One L will be as upgrade-able as the Core One, even if it has high voltage AC bed heater. If or when there will be an + or S version (I guess Prusa wont be using S as an upgraded model number now that it could mean the opposite of L, as in size, in this case)
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
I hope the Core One L will be as upgrade-able as the Core One, even if it has high voltage AC bed heater. If or when there will be an + or S version (I guess Prusa wont be using S as an upgraded model number now that it could mean the opposite of L, as in size, in this case)
I'm sure there will be various upgrades. Besides the INDX, the next logical one would be an active chamber heater.
RE:
Then either buy a Core One+ kit or source the parts and build a Voron.
Just be sure to keep an eye on questions of design language and color scheme.
Or it'll look like mine 😀
Seriously, trying this as a first FDM printer would have been a very bad idea. Too many balls to juggle (and obviously, I have to print parts myself and those need to be fairly precise in ABS/ASA or the docking mechanism will go bonkers).
In that sense, Prusa's value proposition of a "curated" - and simplified - kit still holds ("simplified" - not having to touch the firmware. No endpoint switches. "Blunt-tools-only" approach to bed leveling - Voron's "quad-gantry-leveling" is a precise mechanical ballet enjoyable to watch while it works. Once it works ... No selection of hotend or extruder, just pick nozzles... the list could go on.
The Core One build is, all after all, considerably more user-friendly. And paying for that makes (IMHO - not regretting the core One purchase) sense.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
Then either buy a Core One+ kit or source the parts and build a Voron.
Seriously, trying this as a first FDM printer would have been a very bad idea. Too many balls to juggle (and obviously, I have to print parts myself and those need to be fairly precise in ABS/ASA or the docking mechanism will go bonkers).
In that sense, Prusa's value proposition of a "curated" - and simplified - kit still holds ("simplified" - not having to touch the firmware. No endpoint switches. "Blunt-tools-only" approach to bed leveling - Voron's "quad-gantry-leveling" is a precise mechanical ballet enjoyable to watch while it works. Once it works ... No selection of hotend or extruder, just pick nozzles... the list could go on.
The Core One build is, all after all, considerably more user-friendly. And paying for that makes (IMHO - not regretting the core One purchase) sense.
Absolutely agree. The difference between building a Voron and building a Prusa is in my opinion (kind of): Building a Voron is more for when you want the 3D printer itself to be your hobby. Building a Prusa is (relatively) more for when the 3D printing is the hobby but you also want to get a deeper understanding of and learn your 3D printer. After I built my MK4 and the Enclosure, I felt quite comfortable in returning to it to maintain it or do some slight modifications, but the complexity level between Prusa kit and Voron build is on a different level.
I haven't decided if my next printer will be a Voron 2.4 or a Prusa Core One L. There are pros and cons between both, but I think one of the biggest cons for the Voron is the cost. In Sweden a Voron 2.4 costs as much as a Prusa Core One L, and that would be after supporting a Chinese company (I think) for the Voron kit instead of supporting European-made Prusa.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
As the L has been around for a while now and there's been no word of a kit, I doubt one is coming.......
Prusa is already on record (in Reddit) as stating there will be no Core One L kit.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
If it is posted on Reddit, then it is a fact.
I think Prusa is wrong about that. It also makes me wonder how they plan on doing repairs if there is not option for a kit. If people cannot build the kit for safety reasons, then they should be prevented from making repairs. Is Prusa going to offer free shipping for repairs under warranty?
I guess my money will be sitting in the bank much longer for my next printer, till after the INDX version comes out and I see how well it is running and the bugs are pretty much fixed.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
I would love a Core one L kit !! please had so much fun building my Core One kit
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
I too would like to see a Core One L kit but can understand Prusa's position on this.
Selling a kit to the general public who may or may not have the necessary skills/equipment to assemble it safely is a significant risk, Prusa will have all the information of how well people coped with assembling the Core One and the type of problems that were encountered.
I would guess there were too many power related ones on a 'safe' voltage level, translating that to AC Mains voltage is probably too high a risk for everyone concerned so a kit version has been shelved. It is easier to say it is down to a regulatory issue rather than saying some of the their customers may struggle and the risk of someone getting hurt is too high not withstanding the mechanical injuries a curious finger can get from a 3D printer.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
I'm not an electrical engineer but wondering if Prusa could have switched to a 48VDC power-supply instead for the bed? Still a lot safer than mains.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
How true!
I'm not an electrical engineer but wondering if Prusa could have switched to a 48VDC power-supply instead for the bed? Still a lot safer than mains.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
How true!
I'm not an electrical engineer but wondering if Prusa could have switched to a 48VDC power-supply instead for the bed? Still a lot safer than mains.
That I'm not an electrical engineer or that Prusa should have gone with a 48VDC bed? 🤔
At least in my opinion both are true.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
Definitely a viable option, lots of power supplies that output 48VDC or 54VDC but it would be a more complicated power system with 48V for the bed, then regulate down to 24V for the rest of the electronics, using the AC mains was probably cheaper.
PoE operates at 54VDC and no one seems to have issues with that.
How true!
I'm not an electrical engineer but wondering if Prusa could have switched to a 48VDC power-supply instead for the bed? Still a lot safer than mains.
That I'm not an electrical engineer or that Prusa should have gone with a 48VDC bed? 🤔
At least in my opinion both are true.
RE: CORE One L Kit interest
After working many years in R&D, there are questions.
Much depends on the wattage that is being used for the bed. Higher voltage, lower current.
With today's electronics, 48/24 dual voltage power supplies exist and are not that expensive. Amount of power necessary to drive the bed is the unknown.
It would be an interesting piece of data to know how much power is drawn by the bed when it is heating from cold. A simple power monitor on the mains lead and see the power draw difference when heating the bed.
Since it is AC, does that mean there are different beds for 120V (Mainly North America) and 240V (Most of the rest of the world) countries? Or is there an AC regulator? Or an inverter to convert from DC to AC for the bed? What AC voltage is fed to the bed? People that own the Core One L could measure this and report it to the forum.
Are there schematics for the Core One L available? Many questions to be answered for this discussion.
Present owners of the Core One L may be able to answer some of those questions. Maybe there is a need to have a reverse engineering thread on the Core One L if Prusa isn't going to make the information public. There are enough skilled people on this forum that could figure this all out and who knows, make it better.
With the concern about safety, the question of warranty repairs still stands. Has anyone had to deal with warranty bed issues with their Core One L?
RE:
a look over the fence, the LDO kit for a Voron 350 ships with a 750 W heatbed. A PSU for that would add significant cost, with the result being indistinguishable from the outside.
Also, regulation aside, I'm not comfortable with the thought. An electrical fault in series - e.g. bad contact - can in theory dissipate a quarter of the headbed's power. If the PSU doesn't reliably shut down on overcurrent. And that will start a fire in the blink of an eye, without any conventional protection circuitry e.g. fuse noticing anything unusual. And if not in the blink of an eye, "later during the night", quite likely.
For more complex failure modes and if the PSU doesn't cut off hard on overcurrent (there needs to be margin for robustness, e.g. melt fuses take a fairly long time to trip for small excess current, the datasheets plot on logarithmic time axis) - worst-case available power is even considerably higher, hundreds of Watts.
The same failure with a mains powered heatbed, you have a very good chance that some charring occurs, current to protective earth exceeds the 30 mA of a modern FI switch and the whole room goes dark within milliseconds. Nothing is guaranteed, just pointing out that low-voltage at absurd current is not necessarily safer than run-of-the-mill mains wiring).