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Trouble printing Fiberon PA6-CF20  

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Hammbone
(@hammbone)
Mitglied
RE: Trouble printing Fiberon PA6-CF20

 

Posted by: @aaron-pigeon

Anyway I can get your profile for the PA612, please?  Seems like all the Fiberon profiles on their site are for other printers. 

Thanks for the assist. 

Hey @hammbone: I went deep on this a while back and messaged a few folks who had posted here about successful PA6 prints to find settings. One person kindly responded and sent a .3mf with a test print and their settings, along with some photos. The profile was exactly identical to the built in Prusament PA11 carbon fiber profile and their prints looked much better than mine. 

My problem turned out to not be the settings at all. I had wildly underestimated how hygroscopic PA was. Drying it in a food dryer then putting it in a drybox with a pack of silica for a few weeks then trying to print is NOT a recipe for success. You have to dry it aggressively immediately before printing. My process is:
Step 1: 10-12 hrs at 80-100 degrees C in a scientific oven
Step 2: Transfer to a PolyDryer drybox with a Slice Engineering silica canister inside (I found the silica included with these boxes to be insufficient and quickly waterlogged)
Step 3: Print from the PolyDryer box with the heater going (this is probably an overkill).

This might be a bit overkill (esp the oven!) but it reliable and prints with the built PA11 profile work fine. 

TLDR if you're having problems with PA, it's almost certainly moisture.

Thanks for the reply. I have read a lot of problems with wet nylons. I picked up a Sunlu E2 dryer, so I plan to dry it and print from there. 

Veröffentlicht : 25/01/2026 9:44 pm
hyiger
(@hyiger)
Noble Member
RE:

 

Posted by: @hammbone

Thanks for the reply. I have read a lot of problems with wet nylons. I picked up a Sunlu E2 dryer, so I plan to dry it and print from there. 

With PA6, if it is multi-hour print, you need to first dry it (true for any sized part) then print it while it is drying. Storing in a dry box and printing later is not good enough. You then should anneal the parts (if the TDS sheets state so). Nylon can creep so you may need to water treat the part as well after annealing. PA6 in particular is a PITA to work with which is why I don't use it any more. 

Veröffentlicht : 26/01/2026 2:43 pm
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