print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
What do I need to do different?
The rest of the print looks perfect. Just seemingly under extrusion after the seam. It is overture PETG. You can see where I changed rolls...first roll has been open for days and the second roll was vacuum sealed until just before loading onto printer.
Print profile is a native Prusaslicer one.
.20 SPEED
Generic PETG
modified for 5% gyroid infill
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
Please save your Slicer project, then zip it and upload it.
Might be speed related or another setting. Or wet filament that doesn't like the acceleration.
I had freshly delivered rolls that were pretty wet. Putting it into my dryer made the humidity go up to 60%, instead of quickly dropping down to 10% and staying there (like with really dried filament).
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
My first time doing this...hope it works.
I live in the desert in Idaho and usually don't have to worry about humidity but perhaps the moisture is being shipped in.
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
Probably Overture PETG issue (many users complains about it's poor quality recently). Try printing if with another brand.
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
Oh. I've been printing their pla and had good luck.
It is printing again now but with some Zyltech PETG. I'll let you know.
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
Please save your Slicer project, then zip it and upload it.
Might be speed related or another setting. Or wet filament that doesn't like the acceleration.
I had freshly delivered rolls that were pretty wet. Putting it into my dryer made the humidity go up to 60%, instead of quickly dropping down to 10% and staying there (like with really dried filament).
What dryer do you use?
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
Ok it is apparently doing the same thing on other filament. I'll slow it down and try again.
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
Please save your Slicer project, then zip it and upload it.
Might be speed related or another setting. Or wet filament that doesn't like the acceleration.
I had freshly delivered rolls that were pretty wet. Putting it into my dryer made the humidity go up to 60%, instead of quickly dropping down to 10% and staying there (like with really dried filament).
What dryer do you use?
Just the little eSun Lite box, nothing special.
To check the humidity and temperature, I simply put two of these cheap temperature+humidity sensors into the center of the spool. Bought 20 of them for DIY-cereal-dryboxes.
Ok it is apparently doing the same thing on other filament. I'll slow it down and try again.
If you want us to really check your project, please save + zip it and upload it here. That way, we can check speeds, accelerations, flow etc.
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
I thought that's what I did here. Is this file you need different than this?
My first time doing this...hope it works.
I live in the desert in Idaho and usually don't have to worry about humidity but perhaps the moisture is being shipp
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
So I changed the settings to. 20 structural and it worked a lot better but still leaving about 1/2" looking rough.
RE:
Looks like it's a flow instability after retractions. It's likely something you can compensate for with tuning down your retraction speed/acceleration/jerk.
Retraction speed would be in your filament settings. Acceleration/jerk will be in the printer settings.
It could also be that you just need to adjust the pressure advance for that filament. There's plenty of methods to do this, but considering you've already got a cylindrical model, you can add custom g-code every few mm to change the PA value and see what effect you get (go crazy at first like .1 increments, then dial in -- it can be tricky at first to see any difference if you're only adjusting by .01).
Another thought (purely speculative, haven't done much testing myself on this matter yet, since I don't have anything as pronounced as what you're dealing with), but are you using a CHT or HF nozzle? I'm wondering if the smaller channels may be contributing to the flow instability.
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
Looks like it's a flow instability after retractions. It's likely something you can compensate for with tuning down your retraction speed/acceleration/jerk.
Retraction speed would be in your filament settings. Acceleration/jerk will be in the printer settings.
It could also be that you just need to adjust the pressure advance for that filament. There's plenty of methods to do this, but considering you've already got a cylindrical model, you can add custom g-code every few mm to change the PA value and see what effect you get (go crazy at first like .1 increments, then dial in -- it can be tricky at first to see any difference if you're only adjusting by .01).
Another thought (purely speculative, haven't done much testing myself on this matter yet, since I don't have anything as pronounced as what you're dealing with), but are you using a CHT or HF nozzle? I'm wondering if the smaller channels may be contributing to the flow instability.
Thank you for the information and ideas Carl. I will play with those settings.
I am using the CHT nozzle that comes in the Core One. I just bought some standard .5 Prusa brass nozzles that I want to install and try with as well.
What is this part? Does it need to be so flimsy?
You have only two perimeters on a tapering part, the whole wall structure is left open at the top ...
As a result the slightest flaw from what looks like imperfectly dried filament is enough to disrupt the print; even one more perimeter would give it a chance to close the structure so that the next layer would have something to support its perimeters.
Try this with an unmodified print preset - or even convert it to vase mode if it must be ultra-light.
Cheerio,
RE: print looked perfect until I pulled it off build plate
What is this part? Does it need to be so flimsy?
You have only two perimeters on a tapering part, the whole wall structure is left open at the top ...
As a result the slightest flaw from what looks like imperfectly dried filament is enough to disrupt the print; even one more perimeter would give it a chance to close the structure so that the next layer would have something to support its perimeters.
Try this with an unmodified print preset - or even convert it to vase mode if it must be ultra-light.
Cheerio,
Haha There are currently two printing in vase mode and they are working great.
They are my version of a water wall for protecting plants from freezing, so I really wanted to be able to fill them with water.....Hence the gyroid infill.
I did try three perimeters but it wasn't much better.
RE:
What is this part? Does it need to be so flimsy?
You have only two perimeters on a tapering part, the whole wall structure is left open at the top ...
As a result the slightest flaw from what looks like imperfectly dried filament is enough to disrupt the print; even one more perimeter would give it a chance to close the structure so that the next layer would have something to support its perimeters.
Try this with an unmodified print preset - or even convert it to vase mode if it must be ultra-light.
Cheerio,
Also the roll was dried for seven hours @ 65C but it made little difference.