Lifting/warping specific to Core One
Tried to print this (model below) a few times on my C1+ and every time using generic PETG profile and Overture PETG the two corners would lift about 2mm off the plate. Tried the Prusa Satin and the Cryogrip Glacier plates. Both freshly washed with dawn with a final RO water rinse. I also rotated the model 90 deg in case the corners in question had heating issues, with no improvement.
The really annoying thing is I printed the same model on my P2S and it came out correctly and flat. Which really annoyed me.
I know its said that 90deg corners are troublesome, but honestly, I've printed dozens if not more, similar objects on my past Mk3s and Mk4S as well as my old mini. Only the C1 is doing this. The last round I left the door open to see if the chamber was too hot. No help.
I looked at another recent print and it shows similar lifting though to a much lesser extent. Photo below the slicer capture. Unfortunately I tossed all the failed prints so I don't have an actual example of this one, to show you.
Any ideas? This bothers me because of how well it prints on other printers and only the C1 does this.
RE: Lifting/warping specific to Core One
What printer settings did you use?
How fast are the normal perimeters and how high are the outer ones?
What are the maximum print settings for Overture PETG?
RE: Lifting/warping specific to Core One
I used the standard, unmodified .015 structural print profile and generic petg filament settings. No changes to the defaults.
Overture lists: 230-260, 65-70 and <300mm/s
RE: Lifting/warping specific to Core One
I used the standard, unmodified .015 structural print profile
I assume you meant 0.15, or this would be a very loooong print. Even 0.15 is overkill, I would probably use 0.2 plus variable layer height, or just set layer height to 0.3, which cuts about an hour print time. I've printed this model (sans the cutout on the right) for all my CORE Ones with those settings. No issues.
If you continue to have problems, there should be just enough space to add a brim to the model, if rotated right. Plus, if I have issues like this, I usually just slap a layer of Layerneer on (or Magigoo), which does the job 95% of the time.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/
RE: Lifting/warping specific to Core One
Yes .15 of course, sorry about that. I'll try that, but I just found another issue when trying a test print of a smaller model. This is now the second time I get filament "drag" is the best I can describe it. I am in the middle of a full test/calibration so I'll try again when its complete.
I used the standard, unmodified .015 structural print profile
I assume you meant 0.15, or this would be a very loooong print. Even 0.15 is overkill, I would probably use 0.2 plus variable layer height, or just set layer height to 0.3, which cuts about an hour print time. I've printed this model (sans the cutout on the right) for all my CORE Ones with those settings. No issues.
If you continue to have problems, there should be just enough space to add a brim to the model, if rotated right. Plus, if I have issues like this, I usually just slap a layer of Layerneer on (or Magigoo), which does the job 95% of the time.
RE:
Yes .15 of course, sorry about that. I'll try that, but I just found another issue when trying a test print of a smaller model. This is now the second time I get filament "drag" is the best I can describe it. I am in the middle of a full test/calibration so I'll try again when its complete.
I used the standard, unmodified .015 structural print profile
I assume you meant 0.15, or this would be a very loooong print. Even 0.15 is overkill, I would probably use 0.2 plus variable layer height, or just set layer height to 0.3, which cuts about an hour print time. I've printed this model (sans the cutout on the right) for all my CORE Ones with those settings. No issues.
If you continue to have problems, there should be just enough space to add a brim to the model, if rotated right. Plus, if I have issues like this, I usually just slap a layer of Layerneer on (or Magigoo), which does the job 95% of the time.
For boxes and such I will even use 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layers. 0.15mm is overkill for something like a purge bin. If you have just the 0.40mm HF nozzle, then try 0.25mm SPEED profile.
If you are have trouble with warping or bed adhesion on a corner, try mouse ears.
RE:
I'm using the Diamondback .4 at the moment. But I get the overkill. But what I still don't get is why its lifting when now 2 other printers print the same stl fine (I set up another old printer to test). No brims, no mouse ears, no superstick plates, nothing other than default settings. And the gobs on the previous photo aren't making me happy either. Maybe I'll wipe all my custom print profiles and try again. But all I have done to them is turning off heat soak for lesser filaments and added the brush wipe code to the custom gcode section, so I can't see how I could have screwed anything print related up...
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Yes .15 of course, sorry about that. I'll try that, but I just found another issue when trying a test print of a smaller model. This is now the second time I get filament "drag" is the best I can describe it. I am in the middle of a full test/calibration so I'll try again when its complete.
I used the standard, unmodified .015 structural print profile
I assume you meant 0.15, or this would be a very loooong print. Even 0.15 is overkill, I would probably use 0.2 plus variable layer height, or just set layer height to 0.3, which cuts about an hour print time. I've printed this model (sans the cutout on the right) for all my CORE Ones with those settings. No issues.
If you continue to have problems, there should be just enough space to add a brim to the model, if rotated right. Plus, if I have issues like this, I usually just slap a layer of Layerneer on (or Magigoo), which does the job 95% of the time.
For boxes and such I will even use 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layers. 0.15mm is overkill for something like a purge bin. If you have just the 0.40mm HF nozzle, then try 0.25mm SPEED profile.
If you are have trouble with warping or bed adhesion on a corner, try mouse ears.
RE: Lifting/warping specific to Core One
Do those other printers use the same nozzle?
Those accumulations... I almost hate myself for suggesting it because 'dry your filament' has become such an overused suggestion for anything wrong but I'd try to dry my filament.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/
RE: Lifting/warping specific to Core One
Turning off the heat soak could be contributing to the blobs. As the printer warms the the printer starts to expand and move, including your heat bed. For small parts this is likely not an issue, but on larger parts it could be.
The idea behind the heat soak is to create the bed mesh when the bed has mostly stopped expanding and moving.
This is not a new issue either. Even on the old mk3s where you manually set the lives Z value, I had to have different settings for if I was printing something like asa versus pla because of the large difference in bed temperature. At the higher temperatures the bed would expand and move more which meant my lives Z value had to be different.
RE: Lifting/warping specific to Core One
I'm using the Diamondback .4 at the moment. But I get the overkill. But what I still don't get is why its lifting when now 2 other printers print the same stl fine (I set up another old printer to test). No brims, no mouse ears, no superstick plates, nothing other than default settings. And the gobs on the previous photo aren't making me happy either. Maybe I'll wipe all my custom print profiles and try again. But all I have done to them is turning off heat soak for lesser filaments and added the brush wipe code to the custom gcode section, so I can't see how I could have screwed anything print related up...
For large parts I wouldn't skip the heat soak. I only have it turned off for PETG, PLA and TPU because I don't print large parts with those filaments (and for TPU it doesn't matter).
Also, check that the nozzle is indeed clean. Bits of filament stuck to it can mess up the bed mesh and cause first layer problems like this.
RE: Lifting/warping specific to Core One
No, of course not. But they all are .4 non-high flow. And lol@ the dry filament comment, but I rigorously dry all my filaments and keep them in Polybox’s with fresh indicating desiccant.
Do those other printers use the same nozzle?
Those accumulations... I almost hate myself for suggesting it because 'dry your filament' has become such an overused suggestion for anything wrong but I'd try to dry my filament.
Ok, I see Wht you are saying, but my open printer (BL A1) doesn’t have heat soaks and also is printing it perfectly flat.
Turning off the heat soak could be contributing to the blobs. As the printer warms the the printer starts to expand and move, including your heat bed. For small parts this is likely not an issue, but on larger parts it could be.
The idea behind the heat soak is to create the bed mesh when the bed has mostly stopped expanding and moving.
This is not a new issue either. Even on the old mk3s where you manually set the lives Z value, I had to have different settings for if I was printing something like asa versus pla because of the large difference in bed temperature. At the higher temperatures the bed would expand and move more which meant my lives Z value had to be different.
Tell you what, I’ll try it (again) with heat soak turned on and see. And I’m just as meticulous about a clean nozzle as I am about dry filament…
I'm using the Diamondback .4 at the moment. But I get the overkill. But what I still don't get is why its lifting when now 2 other printers print the same stl fine (I set up another old printer to test). No brims, no mouse ears, no superstick plates, nothing other than default settings. And the gobs on the previous photo aren't making me happy either. Maybe I'll wipe all my custom print profiles and try again. But all I have done to them is turning off heat soak for lesser filaments and added the brush wipe code to the custom gcode section, so I can't see how I could have screwed anything print related up...
For large parts I wouldn't skip the heat soak. I only have it turned off for PETG, PLA and TPU because I don't print large parts with those filaments (and for TPU it doesn't matter).
Also, check that the nozzle is indeed clean. Bits of filament stuck to it can mess up the bed mesh and cause first layer problems like this.