Filament not sticking.
I opened a new Prusa filament (Lipstick Red). Printed fine Sunday. Monday it was not sticking to the plate in some spots. I put it in a dryer at 50 Deg C for 5 hr. Same me problem . The plate is cleaned each time with 99% IPA and is spotless. Printing at 215 (That's what the spool says) with a 60 degree bed temp. Wednesday It made the mess shown in the picture. 1. The little test strip in the front was 0.45mm thick. Is that right? 2. What should the purge string diameter be? 3. They say do not use a Z offset because the Core one measures where the plate. It appears the nozzle is not getting close enough to the plate
RE:
IPA doesn't really clean the plate, it just moves oils around. Try dish detergent like Dawn and warm water.
- Yes, for a 0.4mm nozzle it should be 0.45mm thick. This is set in the slicer under "Default extrusion width"
- Same width extrusion width as in #1
- Correct, the Core One uses the load cell and creates a mesh of the plate surface. Probably the nozzle is not getting close enough because filament was stuck to the tip of the nozzle when it was probing the bed. Try cleaning with a brass wire brush.
RE: Filament not sticking.
Hey,
Please check that the nozzle sits tight in the holder and the thumb screws are tightened correctly to avoid that error. Put the bed to the lowest position and check the screw tightness of the z-axis nuts. Maybe loosen and tighten them a little bit for optimal play. It is hard to say but the whole arrangement is usually unter tention, because of assemble first and put in linear rails later. Maybe removing that tention will lead to more consistent results.
RE: Filament not sticking.
I see a lot of red accumulation on the nozzle tip so I'd agree with @hyiger in point 3. Clean your nozzle to avoid buildup from interfering with the mesh-bed leveling. Heat the nozzle to 170°C or so and gently scrub the buildup off with a brass brush. (The soft brass brushes sold for gun maintenance work well for this.)
I'm another proponent of occasionally cleaning the print beds with Dawn, but I use water as hot as I can stand and scrub with a plastic bristle brush. For the powder coated sheets (satin and textured) I also put the freshly cleaned sheet back on the bed and crank it up to 100°C (or higher) until the printer automatically shuts the bed heater off to drive off any moisture that accumulated between the powder coat grains to avoid rusting sheets. If I remember I flip the sheet once after a few minutes at temperature.
For daily maintenance cleaning (between print jobs) I use 90%IPA, mostly out of habit. I haven't tried it yet, but Grant from 3D Musketeers swears by using an ammonia based glass cleaner (like Windex) instead of IPA for daily maintenance cleaning. He claims that will actually pick up finger oils instead of just smearing them around like IPA does.
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RE: Filament not sticking.
I switched to BIQU Cryogrip plates and don't clean them at all except an occasional wipe with a dry cloth to remove debris.