Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
Yesterday I have received my brand new E3D ObXidian HF nozzle for my Core One and was really excited to use it. I printed the nozzle replacement tool provided by Prusa and sticked to the guide for switching the nozzle. But unfortunately after changing the nozzle, I was no longer able to load filament - instead I heard loud clicking noises. I was really confused and spend a lot of time with the support to figure out what was wrong. It turns out: The nozzle replacement tool is incomopatible with E3D nozzles!
Because I don't want you to go through the same issues as I did, I modified the tool to be compatible with E3D nozzles (like ObXidian HF):
https://www.printables.com/model/1260118-core-one-nozzle-replacement-tool-for-e3d-nozzles
On the printables model page I also documented the differences between E3D and Prusa nozzles (like the one shipped with the printer), as well as why a different nozzle replacmeent tool is even necessary.
Happy printing switching nozzles!
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
There is no problem with the replacement tool from Prusa and ObXidian nozzles. You just have to push on the nozzle from bellow before you tight those two thumb screws. To ensure that nozzle is all the way up. But you have to do it with brass nozzles too.
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
You just have to push on the nozzle from bellow before you tight those two thumb screws.
In my experience, that was not really possible while the tool was holding on to the heater block, because the grip is too tight.
For the MK4S there are also modified versions of the tool for E3D nozzles by Prusa. Unfortunately these versions were missing here, so I made them myself.
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
There is no problem with the replacement tool from Prusa and ObXidian nozzles. You just have to push on the nozzle from bellow before you tight those two thumb screws. To ensure that nozzle is all the way up. But you have to do it with brass nozzles too.
Incorrect (regarding the HF nozzles, at least).
The HF ObXidian nozzles have a taller nut on the nozzle, which pushes the heater block towards the heat break 5-6mm. This makes it near impossible to install the heater block at the 45° angle required by the tool, due to the lack of clearance of the heater core and thermistor wires to the hotend fan. Unless you’re jacking those wires 90° horizontally immediately coming out of the heater block, which is just begging for failure.
I'm actually pretty surprised there isn’t a whole discussion about this. Has nobody else tried a HF ObXidian nozzle on C1?
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
I'm using the HF Obxidian X on my Core One. The wires do contact the fan case, and that bothers me, but I've been too lazy to go back and use pliers to properly support and bend them that 60 degrees to avoid the contact. I'm still looking for a solution: I'd really prefer to have a High Flow Tungsten Carbide nozzle in the Nextruder style. But so far have only found the TC nozzles in the V6 style and non-HF, so I'm living with the E3D HF Obx.
RE:
I don't even bother removing the nozzle from the heat block, I just swap out the entire heat block set (sock, heat block, thermistor, heater, nozzle). All 4 of my nozzles have their own dedicated heat block set. I replaced the side cover with this: Prusa Core One Nextruder Cover with Magnetic Latch Takes me about 30 seconds to swap out a nozzle.
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
You do know those ClickMate connectors are only rated for 30 insertion cycles, right? They'll probably last longer, especially if Prusa is using the heavy gold plated version, but the spec is the spec.
RE:
You do know those ClickMate connectors are only rated for 30 insertion cycles, right? They'll probably last longer, especially if Prusa is using the heavy gold plated version, but the spec is the spec.
Whatever... you really are an arrogant jerk. Wish there was a mute on the forum...
RE:
Since you are so fond of being pedantic I'll give you a lesson. This is how you should respond:
In my opinion, since the connectors have a limited lifespan it's probably best to leave the heat block in-place and swap out the nozzle instead.
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
ClickMate connectors are only rated
Unless I picked the wrong spec section, the picture looks like part of the mechanical performance section of the ClickMate Product Specification sheet. The reference to 30 cycles is a test condition used to test change in contact resistance due to insertion/withdrawal, with a limit to acceptable contact resistance of 40 milliohms max. That's a far cry from 'only rated for 30 cycles'. The spec is the spec.
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
My apologies folks, 30 years of designing electronics and systems using connectors like these that fail in short order is - well - apparently meaningless.
FWIW - after the number of cycles in the spec contacts like these typically skyrocket in resistance. So the manufacturers pick a value, usually on the lower end of the spectrum, and save themselves liability issues. Gold electroplate extends the life ten fold, and heavy gold a hundred. But hey... if you want to life test these connectors, go for it. In the end, steel on phosphor-bronze still makes a connection.
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
C'mon, we're talking about the longevity of a $19 LoveBoard board with 9 connectors on it. Nobody expects mil spec connectors on something like that. If a connection becomes intermittent, a touch of contact cleaner to the rescue.
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
Sadly, there is more to a connector that the connection it makes than resistance. When the plate wears through, and it will, the other primary factors are wetting current and emf. For example, the thermistor temperature measurement is susceptible to errors when the tin or gold plate wears away. It won't be intermittent, it will just be 'wrong' and you'll not understand why. Dissimilar metals create a thermocouple -- think of a small battery inserted into the sense circuit. Another problem may be the sense current may not exceed the wetting current of the new materials exposed. No amount of cleaner will help that condition. There are more, but I digress.
Yeah, I'm being 'extreme' and thinking worst case; during my years I made things for the military, but more important were products for the medical industry, and reliability and safety were things I had to design in, hence my attention to these types of details. Just cross your fingers Prusa didn't cheap out and at a minimum purchased the minimal gold plate versions - I didn't dig that deep - the gold electroplate plate should give the connectors hundreds of cycles, not tens like the tin spec.
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
I'm using the HF Obxidian X on my Core One. The wires do contact the fan case, and that bothers me, but I've been too lazy to go back and use pliers to properly support and bend them that 60 degrees to avoid the contact. I'm still looking for a solution: I'd really prefer to have a High Flow Tungsten Carbide nozzle in the Nextruder style. But so far have only found the TC nozzles in the V6 style and non-HF, so I'm living with the E3D HF Obx.
I’d pay just about any price for a TC Nextruder nozzle. I dug through my graveyard of past upgrades and found my V6 TC nozzle, resolving to put it through its paces once everything is dialed in with known entities (have been using HF ObXidian on Mk4S for a while, so I feel like that counts).
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
I'm using the HF Obxidian X on my Core One. The wires do contact the fan case, and that bothers me, but I've been too lazy to go back and use pliers to properly support and bend them that 60 degrees to avoid the contact. I'm still looking for a solution: I'd really prefer to have a High Flow Tungsten Carbide nozzle in the Nextruder style. But so far have only found the TC nozzles in the V6 style and non-HF, so I'm living with the E3D HF Obx.
I’d pay just about any price for a TC Nextruder nozzle. I dug through my graveyard of past upgrades and found my V6 TC nozzle, resolving to put it through its paces once everything is dialed in with known entities (have been using HF ObXidian on Mk4S for a while, so I feel like that counts).
I'll never use another V6 nozzle again. Even though I heat tightened at 250C, I still ended up with a leak and had to replace the heat block assembly. Really like my Diamondbacks. They are not HF but then I don't print stuff large enough where it makes that much of a difference. Don't really care if I shave 30 min off of a 4hr print.
RE:
I'll never use another V6 nozzle again. Even though I heat tightened at 250C, I still ended up with a leak and had to replace the heat block assembly. Really like my Diamondbacks. They are not HF but then I don't print stuff large enough where it makes that much of a difference. Don't really care if I shave 30 min off of a 4hr print.
I really really really hate to do this, because I know it'll rile you up Hyiger (my intent is 100% to share info, not annoy), but the E3D V6 system needs to be tightened at 280C to avoid leaks, and odds are good if whatever procedure you were using that erroneously said 250c, also didn't account for keeping the nozzle hex away from the heat block by a millimeter.
Here's an age old discussion arguing if 280c is even hot enough. https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-hardware-firmware-and-software-help/e3d-nozzle-swap-prusa-instructions-vs-e3d/
RE:
I'll never use another V6 nozzle again. Even though I heat tightened at 250C, I still ended up with a leak and had to replace the heat block assembly. Really like my Diamondbacks. They are not HF but then I don't print stuff large enough where it makes that much of a difference. Don't really care if I shave 30 min off of a 4hr print.
I really really really hate to do this, because I know it'll rile you up Hyiger, but the E3D V6 system needs to be tightened at 280C to avoid leaks, and odds are good if whatever procedure you were using that erroneously said 250c, also didn't account for keeping the nozzle hex away from the heat block by a millimeter.
Here's an age old discussion arguing if 280c is even hot enough. https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-hardware-firmware-and-software-help/e3d-nozzle-swap-prusa-instructions-vs-e3d/
Prusa recommended 250 and that is what I went with. What you don't seem to get is it's not your response that is annoying, it's the way you respond. Try a different approach and perhaps people won't get riled up.
RE:
OK, here it is... So please tell me how I "erroneously" set my nozzle to the wrong temp?
https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-install-the-nextruder-v6-nozzle-adapter-core-one_252348
Set the nozzle temperature to 250°C. On the printer screen, navigate to Control -> Temperature -> Nozzle Temperature and set it to 250°C.
RE: Core One Nozzle Replacement Tool is incompatible with E3D-nozzles
E3D, who manufactures the nozzles, say 285c. Whoever wrote the Prusa guide for the Nextruder is wrong.
https://e3d-online.com/pages/e3d-classics-support-v6-nozzle#hot-tightening-guide