RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
yeah, during one of the recent more significant sales on Aliexpress I grabbed 2 for $US 44.
I'm also still on my first side, but wanted to have physical spares.
Also I noticed that the landing zone where the nozzle primes seems to have some wear. So it's not indestructible coating. 😀
RE:
yeah, during one of the recent more significant sales on Aliexpress I grabbed 2 for $US 44.
I'm also still on my first side, but wanted to have physical spares.
Also I noticed that the landing zone where the nozzle primes seems to have some wear. So it's not indestructible coating. 😀
Nope it's for sure not indestructible. I have 3 plates but still on the first plate. I flip sides every once in a while. I've had no issues with this plate for 4 months now. The only thing I can't print on it without a substantial glue layer is PP but that's a given.
I'm going to try POM on it later today. I've only been able to get POM to stick on G10 or G11 material (barely). Will be interesting if it sticks to a Glacier. My money say "no".
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hello. I just finished some printing tests on the Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate. The bed temperature was set to 45 °C for PLA. I’m wondering if I should also buy a Frostbite plate specifically for PLA and PETG, since those are the materials I use most often.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hmmm, my two new Cryogrip plates just arrived and they feel substantially different.
The first one feels "fuzzy"/rough on the surface. The new ones feel almost smooth, but with some roughness.
I threw one of the new ones in the CoreOne and will check bed adhesion of the finished print.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hmmm, my two new Cryogrip plates just arrived and they feel substantially different.
The first one feels "fuzzy"/rough on the surface. The new ones feel almost smooth, but with some roughness.I threw one of the new ones in the CoreOne and will check bed adhesion of the finished print.
I just opened my two new plates and they are exactly the same as my first plate (which is 4 months old). The FrostBite has a rougher surface than the Glacier. Are both your plates the Glacier?
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hello. I just finished some printing tests on the Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate. The bed temperature was set to 45 °C for PLA. I’m wondering if I should also buy a Frostbite plate specifically for PLA and PETG, since those are the materials I use most often.
The Frostbite works only with PLA/PETG and won't work for other filaments. If you only print those then it's probably a better choice. I very rarely print PLA and print mostly PA and PC. However on the occasions I've printed PLA, it sticks OK to the Glacier.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
I'll have to do some side-by-side testing by printing something warp-prone in ASA.
PETG stuck somewhat well, but that doesn't really mean anything. My suspicion is some problem/error during coating.
RE:
I'll have to do some side-by-side testing by printing something warp-prone in ASA.
PETG stuck somewhat well, but that doesn't really mean anything. My suspicion is some problem/error during coating.
Only speculating but maybe you accidentally got a Frostbite coating on a Glacier sheet. I remember seeing a review on Amazon where that happened to one person. All three of my plates are exactly the same.
I have had difficulties with ASA warping on a very large print (covered most of the sheet with a warp prone geometry). Will be doing a massive ASA print next month so will see.
Filaments I've used (or tried) on this sheet:
- PLA - depending on the size of the part, needed a brim (to control warping) but I very rarely print PLA so not a lot of testing
- PETG - no issue
- PETG PTFE - no issue
- ASA - large parts need a brim to control warping
- TPU - needs a glue layer for easier separation. Sticks too well to the sheet otherwise
- PC and PC-CF (Polycarbonate) - no issue
- PA6, PA6-CF, PPA, PPA-CF (Nylons) - no issue
- PP - smaller parts stick with Magigoo PP. For larger parts I have to use polypropylene packing tape (or glue)
- PVB - no issue
- POM/Delrin - not possible to get it to stick with any type of glue layer (as expected). I can get it to stick to a G10 sheet but it warps like crazy.
I've printed a lot of PETG, PA and PC recently and have had no issues with bed adhesion. I don't worry about fingerprints anymore either. I just wipe the sheet with a dry cloth between prints (or sometimes not at all).
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Thanks for the list. I had a roll of Prusa ABS-T laying around since even before my mk4 and I finally tested it. No smell (advanced filtration did its job well) but ABS sticks like crazy, separation layer highly recommend. Now I need to remove a bit of the ABS print's first layer that decided to stick to the plate instead of the rest of the part. Any suggestions?
RE:
I'll have to do some side-by-side testing by printing something warp-prone in ASA.
PETG stuck somewhat well, but that doesn't really mean anything. My suspicion is some problem/error during coating.Only speculating but maybe you accidentally got a Frostbite coating on a Glacier sheet. I remember seeing a review on Amazon where that happened to one person. All three of my plates are exactly the same.
I have had difficulties with ASA warping on a very large print (covered most of the sheet with a warp prone geometry). Will be doing a massive ASA print next month so will see.
Filaments I've used (or tried) on this sheet:
- PA6, PA6-CF, PPA, PPA-CF (Nylons) - no issue
Somewhat related, I got hold of some cheap Sunlu PA6-CF
Never used any nylon before, what bed/nozzle temps do you use with PA6? And cooling ? Did you use a stock filament profile or create one from scratch ?
I don't want to weld anything to my cryogrip plate, I love this thing!
RE:
I'll have to do some side-by-side testing by printing something warp-prone in ASA.
PETG stuck somewhat well, but that doesn't really mean anything. My suspicion is some problem/error during coating.Only speculating but maybe you accidentally got a Frostbite coating on a Glacier sheet. I remember seeing a review on Amazon where that happened to one person. All three of my plates are exactly the same.
I have had difficulties with ASA warping on a very large print (covered most of the sheet with a warp prone geometry). Will be doing a massive ASA print next month so will see.
Filaments I've used (or tried) on this sheet:
- PA6, PA6-CF, PPA, PPA-CF (Nylons) - no issue
Somewhat related, I got hold of some cheap Sunlu PA6-CF
Never used any nylon before, what bed/nozzle temps do you use with PA6? And cooling ? Did you use a stock filament profile or create one from scratch ?
I don't want to weld anything to my cryogrip plate, I love this thing!
Nylon is easy enough to print but you need to keep it super dry. It’s a water sponge so 8-12hrs at 80C or 12hrs+ at lower temps. Then it should be printed while it is drying (for long prints) or at minimum from a dry box since PA6 exposed to ambient RH can get waterlogged again in as little as 2-3 hrs. Even in a dry box at < 10% RH it’ll need to go back into the dryer in a couple of days before you print with it. Other than that, it’s great stuff. The non CF versions are tough and slightly flexible and the CF versions, especially PPA-CF are like metal once you print them.
Nozzle and bed temps depend on the brand but generally it’s around 280C nozzle, 80C bed.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Cheers buddy, my drier only goes to 70 so Ill leave it in there for a day.
In your experience does it need drying initially when you buy it ?
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Cheers buddy, my drier only goes to 70 so Ill leave it in there for a day.
In your experience does it need drying initially when you buy it ?
Nylons have to be dried first even when you pull it from a fresh box. I believe some manufacturers allow a certain amount of moisture into the spool before it is packed. The thing about PA's if they get too dry they get super brittle and filament can snap easily but too much moisture and the prints look like crap (if you can get it to print at all). Also, I'd advise not using a HF nozzle. Just a regular hardened nozzle in your case. PA can be a PITA to unclog if it get's stuck. Besides PA is a material that doesn't benefit from a high flow anyway.