RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hyiger, you’re a tireless salesman, Bigtreetech must be proud of you ( just kidding.. 😉 )
In all likelihood, people who had issues with this plate is because they think it’s like a satin/textured plate, which are sprayed plates. The Cryogrip is more like a Prusa smooth where a sheet of PEI (or whatever they use instead ) is bonded to the steel core with adhesive tape.
Remember what Prusa says about printing PETG, ASA, PC or TPU on their smooth plates.?. Use always glue/releasing agent or you might tear the PEi sheet removing the prints. Probably the manufacturer of the Cryogrip recommends lower bed temperatures to print PETG in order to reduce the adhesion and avoid damaging the surface.
You almost convinced me to purchase one of these. If I do, apart from using a lower bed temperature, I’ll spray a bit of 3Dlac on the plate to prevent issues when printing PETG, ASA, TPU or PA. No harm done and peace of mind is priceless.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hyiger, you’re a tireless salesman, Bigtreetech must be proud of you ( just kidding.. 😉 )
In all likelihood, people who had issues with this plate is because they think it’s like a satin/textured plate, which are sprayed plates. The Cryogrip is more like a Prusa smooth where a sheet of PEI (or whatever they use instead ) is bonded to the steel core with adhesive tape.
Remember what Prusa says about printing PETG, ASA, PC or TPU on their smooth plates.?. Use always glue/releasing agent or you might tear the PEi sheet removing the prints. Probably the manufacturer of the Cryogrip recommends lower bed temperatures to print PETG in order to reduce the adhesion and avoid damaging the surface.
You almost convinced me to purchase one of these. If I do, apart from using a lower bed temperature, I’ll spray a bit of 3Dlac on the plate to prevent issues when printing PETG, ASA, TPU or PA. No harm done and peace of mind is priceless.
Hahaha. BIQU door to door build plate salesman...
PLA and TPU stick a bit too well as you pointed out so I run with the bed turned off. I've been using a glue separation layer in the case of TPU. PETG is seems OK so far with standard bed temps and doesn't require glue. The big deal for me is ASA, PA and PC which I've printing a lot of and don't need a glue layer nor worry about finding a spaghetti monster when I inspect the print.
Also, I don't care at all about the finish on the parts since mostly what I print is functional.
RE:
I've gotten counterfeits, substituted items or factory seconds passed off as new on Amazon before. The nice bit is they replace it or refund immediately, no questions asked. Which is mostly why I stay away from eBay. They are good about rectifying issues like this but it takes a lot more time and effort. As mentioned, I've never used Ali before. Might give it a go if it's consistently cheaper for the same quality and service