The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
 
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The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One  

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Artur5
(@artur5)
Honorable Member
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One

Hyiger, you’re a tireless salesman, Bigtreetech must be proud of you ( just kidding.. 😉 )

In all likelihood, people who had issues with this plate is because they think it’s like a satin/textured plate, which are sprayed plates. The Cryogrip is more like a Prusa smooth  where a sheet of PEI (or whatever they use instead ) is bonded to the steel core with adhesive tape.

Remember what Prusa says about printing PETG, ASA, PC or TPU on their smooth  plates.?.  Use always glue/releasing agent or you might tear the PEi sheet removing the prints. Probably the manufacturer of the Cryogrip recommends lower bed temperatures to print PETG in order to reduce the adhesion and avoid damaging the surface.

 You almost convinced me to purchase one of these. If I do, apart from using a lower bed temperature, I’ll spray a bit of 3Dlac on the plate to prevent issues when printing PETG, ASA, TPU or PA. No harm done and peace of mind is priceless.

Napsal : 06/10/2025 9:55 am
hyiger
(@hyiger)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One

 

Posted by: @artur5

Hyiger, you’re a tireless salesman, Bigtreetech must be proud of you ( just kidding.. 😉 )

In all likelihood, people who had issues with this plate is because they think it’s like a satin/textured plate, which are sprayed plates. The Cryogrip is more like a Prusa smooth  where a sheet of PEI (or whatever they use instead ) is bonded to the steel core with adhesive tape.

Remember what Prusa says about printing PETG, ASA, PC or TPU on their smooth  plates.?.  Use always glue/releasing agent or you might tear the PEi sheet removing the prints. Probably the manufacturer of the Cryogrip recommends lower bed temperatures to print PETG in order to reduce the adhesion and avoid damaging the surface.

 You almost convinced me to purchase one of these. If I do, apart from using a lower bed temperature, I’ll spray a bit of 3Dlac on the plate to prevent issues when printing PETG, ASA, TPU or PA. No harm done and peace of mind is priceless.

Hahaha. BIQU door to door build plate salesman...

PLA and TPU stick a bit too well as you pointed out so I run with the bed turned off. I've been using a glue separation layer in the case of TPU. PETG is seems OK so far with standard bed temps and doesn't require glue. The big deal for me is ASA, PA and PC which I've printing a lot of and don't need a glue layer nor worry about finding a spaghetti monster when I inspect the print.

Also, I don't care at all about the finish on the parts since mostly what I print is functional. 

Napsal : 06/10/2025 2:00 pm
hyiger
(@hyiger)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
RE:

 

Posted by: @tbr-2
I'd be concerned if someone would be passing off a CryoGrip at a price of 15€ without shipping, as you might end up with a light blue colored generic plate instead…
It's a little bit of science and experience, but you can get consistently reliable products at significantly better prices if you invest that time. 

I've gotten counterfeits, substituted items or factory seconds passed off as new on Amazon before. The nice bit is they replace it or refund immediately, no questions asked. Which is mostly why I stay away from eBay. They are good about rectifying issues like this but it takes a lot more time and effort. As mentioned, I've never used Ali before. Might give it a go if it's consistently cheaper for the same quality and service 

This post was modified před 2 days by hyiger
Napsal : 06/10/2025 2:08 pm
J.J. Kucharczyk
(@j-j-kucharczyk)
Eminent Member
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One

Hello. Yesterday, I received my first CryoGrip plate.

I've already made a few printouts. I didn't change anything because I read online that it wasn't necessary. But...

When cleaning the nozzle, the printer does it twice and ends with an error. When I repeat the process, the same thing happens. Only when I select the purge filament option and repeat the process does the printer continue.

Can you give me some advice on what to change and where? Of course, I will experiment with the table temperature for filaments myself.

Z offset? Manual calibration? Changes to the printer settings for the plate?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Napsal : 08/10/2025 6:45 am
Sonnenwolf
(@sonnenwolf)
Member
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One

Hello all.

Did you adjust the bed temp settings in PrusaSlicer for PLA/PETG or did you use the normal values (60/85) for the  Cryogrip plate?

Napsal : 08/10/2025 9:34 am
chmax
(@chmax)
Estimable Member
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One

That is strange as the nozzle cleaning is independent of the plate you are using. Before starting a print I usually check the nozzle for any remains and, if found, clean it with a brass brush. The only time I get a nozzle cleaning is when a filament is oozing too much (eg pc blend with the default prusa setup) and I have material preventing the cleaning. Since I changed the temps for pcblend and installed a nozzle cleaning pad, I haven't had any nozzle cleaning failure. I swapped in my new Cryogrip plate and all went without any difference ...

What do you see when the printer is failing?

Napsal : 08/10/2025 10:00 am
J.J. Kucharczyk
(@j-j-kucharczyk)
Eminent Member
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One

@chmax thanks for answer.
Before levelling the bed, the printer cleans the nozzle. Usually two or three points. Since I installed the Cryogrip plate, there are about 8 points, after which it returns to its starting position, performs the same 8 points and displays this message. If I select the TRY AGAIN option, I can choose FILAMENT PURGE or CONTINUE. If I select Continue, the same process will start with the same error message. If, on the other hand, I select FILAMENT PURGE, the printer will spit out a lot of material, as usual. I confirm and the nozzle cleaning starts again. Two or three points and the printer moves on to the next step, which is probing the table and printing.

A moment ago, I cancelled the task, cut the object again and changed the plate to a textured Prusa plate. Everything went smoothly right away.

I have an Obsidian nozzle installed and, of course, I check and clean the nozzle with a copper brush every time. After a few hours of printing and several cleanings, the black colour of the nozzle changes 🙂

First time when that happened I did check error code manual:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/nozzle-cleaning-failed-31834-core-one-26834-mk4s-13834-mk4-27834-mk3-9s-21834-mk3-9_689429

Napsal : 08/10/2025 10:26 am
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