RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hyiger, you’re a tireless salesman, Bigtreetech must be proud of you ( just kidding.. 😉 )
In all likelihood, people who had issues with this plate is because they think it’s like a satin/textured plate, which are sprayed plates. The Cryogrip is more like a Prusa smooth where a sheet of PEI (or whatever they use instead ) is bonded to the steel core with adhesive tape.
Remember what Prusa says about printing PETG, ASA, PC or TPU on their smooth plates.?. Use always glue/releasing agent or you might tear the PEi sheet removing the prints. Probably the manufacturer of the Cryogrip recommends lower bed temperatures to print PETG in order to reduce the adhesion and avoid damaging the surface.
You almost convinced me to purchase one of these. If I do, apart from using a lower bed temperature, I’ll spray a bit of 3Dlac on the plate to prevent issues when printing PETG, ASA, TPU or PA. No harm done and peace of mind is priceless.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hyiger, you’re a tireless salesman, Bigtreetech must be proud of you ( just kidding.. 😉 )
In all likelihood, people who had issues with this plate is because they think it’s like a satin/textured plate, which are sprayed plates. The Cryogrip is more like a Prusa smooth where a sheet of PEI (or whatever they use instead ) is bonded to the steel core with adhesive tape.
Remember what Prusa says about printing PETG, ASA, PC or TPU on their smooth plates.?. Use always glue/releasing agent or you might tear the PEi sheet removing the prints. Probably the manufacturer of the Cryogrip recommends lower bed temperatures to print PETG in order to reduce the adhesion and avoid damaging the surface.
You almost convinced me to purchase one of these. If I do, apart from using a lower bed temperature, I’ll spray a bit of 3Dlac on the plate to prevent issues when printing PETG, ASA, TPU or PA. No harm done and peace of mind is priceless.
Hahaha. BIQU door to door build plate salesman...
PLA and TPU stick a bit too well as you pointed out so I run with the bed turned off. I've been using a glue separation layer in the case of TPU. PETG is seems OK so far with standard bed temps and doesn't require glue. The big deal for me is ASA, PA and PC which I've printing a lot of and don't need a glue layer nor worry about finding a spaghetti monster when I inspect the print.
Also, I don't care at all about the finish on the parts since mostly what I print is functional.
RE:
I've gotten counterfeits, substituted items or factory seconds passed off as new on Amazon before. The nice bit is they replace it or refund immediately, no questions asked. Which is mostly why I stay away from eBay. They are good about rectifying issues like this but it takes a lot more time and effort. As mentioned, I've never used Ali before. Might give it a go if it's consistently cheaper for the same quality and service
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hello. Yesterday, I received my first CryoGrip plate.
I've already made a few printouts. I didn't change anything because I read online that it wasn't necessary. But...
When cleaning the nozzle, the printer does it twice and ends with an error. When I repeat the process, the same thing happens. Only when I select the purge filament option and repeat the process does the printer continue.
Can you give me some advice on what to change and where? Of course, I will experiment with the table temperature for filaments myself.
Z offset? Manual calibration? Changes to the printer settings for the plate?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Hello all.
Did you adjust the bed temp settings in PrusaSlicer for PLA/PETG or did you use the normal values (60/85) for the Cryogrip plate?
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
That is strange as the nozzle cleaning is independent of the plate you are using. Before starting a print I usually check the nozzle for any remains and, if found, clean it with a brass brush. The only time I get a nozzle cleaning is when a filament is oozing too much (eg pc blend with the default prusa setup) and I have material preventing the cleaning. Since I changed the temps for pcblend and installed a nozzle cleaning pad, I haven't had any nozzle cleaning failure. I swapped in my new Cryogrip plate and all went without any difference ...
What do you see when the printer is failing?
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
@chmax thanks for answer.
Before levelling the bed, the printer cleans the nozzle. Usually two or three points. Since I installed the Cryogrip plate, there are about 8 points, after which it returns to its starting position, performs the same 8 points and displays this message. If I select the TRY AGAIN option, I can choose FILAMENT PURGE or CONTINUE. If I select Continue, the same process will start with the same error message. If, on the other hand, I select FILAMENT PURGE, the printer will spit out a lot of material, as usual. I confirm and the nozzle cleaning starts again. Two or three points and the printer moves on to the next step, which is probing the table and printing.
A moment ago, I cancelled the task, cut the object again and changed the plate to a textured Prusa plate. Everything went smoothly right away.
I have an Obsidian nozzle installed and, of course, I check and clean the nozzle with a copper brush every time. After a few hours of printing and several cleanings, the black colour of the nozzle changes 🙂
First time when that happened I did check error code manual:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/nozzle-cleaning-failed-31834-core-one-26834-mk4s-13834-mk4-27834-mk3-9s-21834-mk3-9_689429
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
mmmh weird. Is the crygrip plate clean? I saw once a problem generated by not having removed the little leftovers of a previous nozzle cleaning... try to tern the cryogrip upside down (use the other side) and see if this repeats?
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
@chmax Yes Sir 🙂 Clean...
I noticed that after these two prints, there was discoloration, as if there were smudges where the printer deposits the filament before printing.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SsWrkTT5LcQZWze37
Here is a full track:
Where does the error come from?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/j3iAijJ4BQoqeYsH9
Filament extrusion
https://photos.app.goo.gl/j3iAijJ4BQoqeYsH9
Continuation of the process without any problems
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMn3JwpqUe4r1qu6QP3A9W5WRMa3puBPZObQuAh
Sorry for the long explanation, but I didn't want to leave anything out. Without turning the plate, the filament purge machine performs the cleaning process without any problems.
In any case, I just put this pile of junk up for sale and am getting rid of this crude toy that is CoreOne.
I've had it for 8 weeks. 7 weeks of constant replacements and repairs... 3 days of printing and it sounds like it's about to fall apart. I've just had enough.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
sorry to hear of your bad experience! Looking at the video the nozzle looks exactly like mine... if the side screws are tight, then you may be experiencing the cross-talk between the main cable tree wires leading to this kind of issues... there are other threads where this is discussed in all details...
Good luck
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
@chmax Thanks but this happening only when using GroGrip plate 🙂 Never before, and now with other Prusa plates 🙂
Still will test it before somebody will buy this expensive toy 😀
All the best and good printing 😉
RE:
Check your bed leveling using a piece of paper, don't trust Z leveling but with motors disabled move the head to each screw and adjust but hand until you get the same drag between the nozzle and paper/ card, that way you know the bed is level. This cured all my nozzle cleaning issues. It remains level between power cycling but may go out again if need drives all the way down. It's a quick thing to do and may cure your issues.
Normal people believe that if it is not broke, do not fix it. Engineers believe that if it is not broke, it does not have enough features yet.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Check your bed leveling using a piece of paper, don't trust Z leveling but with motors disabled move the head to each screw and adjust but hand until you get the same drag between the nozzle and paper/ card, that way you know the bed is level. This cured all my nozzle cleaning issues. It remains level between power cycling but may go out again if need drives all the way down. It's a quick thing to do and may cure your issues.
Thanks. Maybe I will try. Now I have turn plate over like @chmax suggested... and it start printing
Of course, without any problems with starting the print job, the printer makes the same grinding noises as before, it is impossible to sit near it... 😀
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Something interesting/fun I just got to try out that I picked up from the BQ CryoGrip documentation:
If something is too badly stuck, stuff the whole plate into the freezer.
I can confirm, the large PLA first layer that didn't want to come off with flexing earlier, popped off immediately when gently pulled on with my fingers, no flexing required. I didn't try the IPA/Ethanol trick where it creeps in, that might have worked too.
RE: The Cryogrip Pro Glacier plate is an excellent cheaper alternative to the Satin plate with one minor caveat on the Core One
Something interesting/fun I just got to try out that I picked up from the BQ CryoGrip documentation:
If something is too badly stuck, stuff the whole plate into the freezer.
I can confirm, the large PLA first layer that didn't want to come off with flexing earlier, popped off immediately when gently pulled on with my fingers, no flexing required. I didn't try the IPA/Ethanol trick where it creeps in, that might have worked too.
I had that happen with TPU where it sticks a bit too well and ended up tearing the part.. The IPA trick does work but I've been using Magigoo for that instead. For printing PLA I've just been running with the bed heater turned off.
RE:
I made the mistake of doing a test print with just 2 layers of PLA on this sheet and it was stuck FAST. 😂
I have to say I love these sheets though, the PLA in question is a matte PLA and adhesion was hit and miss on Prusa plates. It sticks like s**t to a blanket on this sheet!
Just to reiterate a question someone asked a few posts up that I'd like to hear peoples thoughts on:
I've only had the BQ sheets a week or so and not really experimented with bed temps (been using stock temps), so:
What Bed temps are you guys using for the main filaments on this sheet?
RE:
my main filaments are PETG and PCBlend, for both I printed extremely well with standard settings. On a particular PCBlend model that always had detaching problems on Prusa Satin sheet (even with 3Dlac), I've used Magigoo PC and it worked like a charm. No detachment at all and easy removal once plate is cold(er).
What Bed temps are you guys using for the main filaments on this sheet?