Print bed? - newbie question
New to 3d printing and just bought the Core One (waiting for it to ship). I'm mostly going to be printing board game tokens, cosplay pieces, and random things until I get settled with the printer to get a better idea of what I'm going to be printing longer term. I bought a bunch of Prusament PLA, a roll of ABS, and ASA.
The printer comes with a bed though I was not sure which bed that they are shipping with and what filament that it would be good to print with. Which bed should I be using for each filament and where can I get the best option (don't care about price) to buy said bed(s)?
Best Answer by yblaser:
I ordered some Satin build plates and a 0.6 mm hardened nozzle last week for shipment to the US. The order shipped the next day and for me at least the shipping cost is offset by the sales tax I would pay if I ordered from a US supplier. I believe the below $800 limit is still in place for import duties so you should not have to pay anything additional.
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
OK, digging through the forum I found another post that talks about the different print beds. At this point, I'd like to buy a satin print bed, where can I get it from that'll work with the Core One? I'd rather not order from Prusa directly if possible due to crazy lead times/shipping costs/tariff concerns.
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
I don't know anyone else who makes satin build plates.
I am currently printing on hollogram build plates the one on my Mk3.9 is notionally smooth... but it transfers hologram Hearts onto the bottoms of my prints
the one on my Mk3 is transferring hologram loops onto the bottoms of my prints on that, and My core XY is using a textured build plate
I believe the Bambu build plates fit the Prusa bed slingers, not sure about core One
Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility.Location Halifax UK
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
I ordered some Satin build plates and a 0.6 mm hardened nozzle last week for shipment to the US. The order shipped the next day and for me at least the shipping cost is offset by the sales tax I would pay if I ordered from a US supplier. I believe the below $800 limit is still in place for import duties so you should not have to pay anything additional.
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
Thank you both for your help! You've convinced me to get directly from Prusa. yblaser, do you think that a hardened nozzle is good in general to replace the stock nozzle? Won't going to .6 affect quality? Are you going for speed over quality?
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
Thank you both for your help! You've convinced me to get directly from Prusa. yblaser, do you think that a hardened nozzle is good in general to replace the stock nozzle? Won't going to .6 affect quality? Are you going for speed over quality?
If you plan to print any "filled" filaments like ones with carbon fiber or other additives a hardened nozzle will prevent nozzle wear due to the abrasive nature of the filler.
I had already ordered some 0.4 mm hardened nozzles, one HF and other regular (just in case I ran into clogging issues with the HF), and wanted the 0.6 mm nozzle for some larger functional prints to gain a little bit of speed. With the arachne option in the slicer supposedly there is not too much detail lost with the larger nozzle. The arachne option allows for the slicer to generate variable width extrusion with the same nozzle diameter. I think the default on prusa slicer is for that option to be enabled.
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
I am looking at E3D Prusa Nozzle: High Flow ObXidian™ - 0.4 mm. Do you think that this is a good option? I don't have an immediate need to print abrasive filament though I'd like the option in the future. If/when I buy this nozzle, can I just replace the stock nozzle and use it for all prints?
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
I am looking at E3D Prusa Nozzle: High Flow ObXidian™ - 0.4 mm. Do you think that this is a good option? I don't have an immediate need to print abrasive filament though I'd like the option in the future. If/when I buy this nozzle, can I just replace the stock nozzle and use it for all prints?
Yes, that's one of the nozzles I bought and just installed it this morning. You should be able to use it for all your prints.
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
Brass nozzle will eventually worn out because all materials can be abrasive a bit. Depends on used pigments and additives. But you don't know when. When you start noticing print quality issues, it's kind of late. With ObXidian nozzle you don't have to think about it. It should last longer than the printer.
ObXidian nozzles are made from copper with steel core. Unlike hardened steel nozzles they have similar weight and thermal properties to brass nozzles. So you can just replace the brass nozzle with ObXidian one and everything should work. Just check in printer settings that you have hardened nozzle.
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
This is super helpful, thank you kindly for the thoughtful response. I'm going to put the order in.
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
Be especially careful with HF nozzles if you use highly filled filaments (typically wood, carbon fiber (CF), glass fiber (GF) and similar), these nozzles are not suitable for use here, because they tend to clog. Unfortunately, this is due to their design, where a relatively large cross-section is divided into several smaller channels with a larger contact area with the nozzle, but with a smaller partial cross-section in which clogging can occur. And in home conditions you have no chance of getting rid of the clogging and restoring the flow in all divided channels of the nozzle. This warning of mine applies to all nozzles regardless of the material (brass, ObXidian and others).
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
Is it real problem or just a theory? Those high flow channels are way wider than the tip. I don't see any reason why would they clog with something that will go trough the 0.4mm or 0.6mm hole just fine.
This is cur of HF Revo hotend from E3D. ObXidian should be similar inside.
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
If you want to print board game tokens that are small and have a lot of fine details, I'd strongly recommend to get a 0.25 nozzle (get a hardened one, no HF available though btw).
The quality increases massively! The print time does too, but the gain in quality, at least for me, was incredible.
Satin sheet from Prusa is a great choice. All other types of sheets are available from other sources, but I too don't know any other satin sheet.
And please remember to either have good filtration and/or a lot of ventilation, when printing ASA & ABS!
RE:
I personally have experienced more clogs with the HF nozzle. It probably comes down to the path of least resistance. When one branch gets debris, most of the flow diverts to the clear branches. But then you’re only getting a fraction of the benefits of HF and you start having under-extrusion. The clogged branch never has as much differential pressure as a single branch (non HF) does, so it’s harder to get it unclogged.
I’d love to see how the HF nozzles are made!
Is it real problem or just a theory? Those high flow channels are way wider than the tip. I don't see any reason why would they clog with something that will go trough the 0.4mm or 0.6mm hole just fine.
This is cur of HF Revo hotend from E3D. ObXidian should be similar inside.
MK4S/MMU3
RE: Print bed? - newbie question
I will do that! What material should I use for boardgames tokens? PLA or something else?
HF only makes a noticeable difference with large prints. Small, detailed items are inherently low flow so a regular nozzle of a small to average size is suitable, a standard 4mm is probably OK. You will want the crispness of PLA for tokens so brass is fine.
For cosplay there may be more need for a variety of materials but I would expect PLA to be suitable for 90% - nozzle size and type depends on what you are making and what post processing and painting you intend so for detailed finery carry on as with the tokens but for large pieces, of armour for example, a HF 0.6mm may come into its own.
I can see no need for Obxidian or other toughened nozzles in your current plan. If you plan experiments with different soft inclusions (wood or cork fill) you don't need the hardness but you do risk permanent clogging whilst learning to use it and it will hurt the pocket less to ruin a brass nozzle.
Cheerio,