PC printing on Core One  

RE: PC printing on Core One

As an example, will I need to keep my part sizes smaller to avoid warping?  Will I need to stick with low perimeter counts on straight sections and/or  always plan to use a brim or helper discs etc..

-J

RE: PC printing on Core One

I have a roll of ancient PrimaSelect PC. It is the hardest filament I have when it comes to warping. While ASA and ABS are no problem from small to medium size, I struggle to get anything larger than a benchy in PC. First problem is adhesion, second problem is warping. In my testing, I found that the smooth sheet with generous brims works better. The sating sheet just does not stick to my first layers. I have not tried the textured sheet yet. Other than my benchy, the only other objects printed successfully were a 20mm solid cube and a similarly sized door hook. And these were half-way detached by the end of the prints.

So in my experience, PC is a last resort if I really really need its properties.

RE: PC printing on Core One

Is it different with the Prusament PCCF? It seems like many people are happily/successfully printing that stuff.  I also expect that the number of users who print PC is still relatively low, so getting lots of feedback may be hard.  

-J

RE: PC printing on Core One

Filament including fibers are less prone to warping and thus are easier to print. Moreover PCCF has an MVS of 9mm³/s vs 24mm³/s for PC Blend, so it prints slower which helps with layer adhesion and reduce thermal stress on the part during printing.

On the CORE One I printed PC-ABS which is a spool of filament that I have never been able to use without warping, even on my MK4S within a lack enclosure. On the CORE One with the chamber at 57°C it is okay, even though I think higher temperature would be necessary for bigger/taller parts.

RE: PC printing on Core One

Thank you for the info on MVS.  Does that suggest that slowing down with the PC printing might have a similar result to printing PCCF, or do the presence of fibers fill really influence the output by a lot?

-J

RE:

I'm currently evaluating options for a printer for the office, and what makes it tough is that at home I mainly print in petg, but at work we'll likely need abs, asa, nylon, and probably most importantly PC. Since my experience is limited to the relative ease of printing petg on my Mk4S, I'm theorizing outside of my experience.

Of course the core one is on the short list for work, but I'm also considering the Fusion3 F200, which among other benefits like recirculating air filtration, has a mains powered bed that can supposedly get the chamber temp up to 70c.  That 13-20c difference in chamber might be what it takes to maximize the value to the office if it allows PC to print easily without requiring a drastic adjustment in design parameters. 

Of course there is NO information on the F200 at this point, and won't likely be until a couple of YouTubers who have them release reviews on it.  It looks good by the specs, but if it's harder to tune than my Prusa it wouldn't justify the added upfront cost.

-J

RE: PC printing on Core One

I printed a bunch of Prusa PCCF parts and find it very easy to work with, easier to get nice prints than petg for example which i find more moist sensitive, supports are difficult though since they can be very difficult to remove. That was on my mk3s, i will soon test on my CoreOne, i assume it will run as easily or better thanks to the higher chamber temps.

RE: PC printing on Core One

Just finished some parts with PCBlend and they came out good but only after I used a brim, without this the curl was quite pronounced and I couldn't get the part to stick. This is to a slightly textured FYSETC plate I've been using for the last 6 years!, I was too scared to try it on my nice new flat plate supplied with the core one prebuilt. Once it cooled it just came away on its own nice and flat. This was a new part for the printer so not bigger than 50mm. Not sure how bigger parts would work.

I had multiple parts on the print bed and was pleasantly surprised at no stringing at all. Pretty impressed with PCBlend with my first prints.

RE: PC printing on Core One

Thank you for sharing that.  I'm really hoping that between the satin or Garolite sheets I'll be able to print without a brim.  The parts that I plan to test print for work will look much better  if they can remain brimless because the visible face of the panel (in use) prints against the bed.  

I have heard that PC is much better than petg for stringing, so I'm looking forward to that.  I currently have trouble printing more than one part in petg at a time without the occasional booger dropping, due to the fact that the part is effectively 100% infill since it's a 2mm thick panel cover with stout walls.  Otherwise they are perfect.  I just don't think I can get away with petg in this application.

I'll have to look into the PC blend.  Do you know what they mix into it beyond PC?

-J

RE:

No but it definitely prints better than pure clear PC, I modified my MK3 quite a bit with copper heatblock, nickel plated copper nozzle, pt100 temperature probe, increased voltage and a few other things to be able to print at over 300 Deg c and it was only good for small parts due to the curling.

One thing that PC or PCBlend is not so good with bridging as PETG is, and I don't get any stringing with PETG or utterly minimal as I keep my filament dry and print straight from the dryer.

RE: PC printing on Core One

I have printed a lot of PC on my Voron and now some on the Core One. Mostly smaller parts though, but some larger on the Voron.
PC needs a hot chamber, the hotter the better.
What you could try is to put a pillow on top of the printer. Set the minimum chamber temp at 50C.
It can take a while before it starts, but you'll get better prints.

RE:

How small is small? The parts I'm hoping to print are most similar to a thick walled open top box with tapered expanding sides, and the base measures about 2"x 4" and only 1.25" tall.  The thick, straight walls with 4 perimeters are what I'm worried about building the warping forces.

-J

RE: PC printing on Core One

Anybody here have a goo profile for Polymax PC filament that could share? 🙂

RE:

I find that the Prusa PC blend prints insanely well out of a Core One.

Haven’t done a lot of carbon fiber printing yet, but have gone through at least one roll of Elegoo PETG GF - which basically prints with the exact same settings as Elegoo Rapid PETG.

RE: PC printing on Core One

I haven't done a lot of Prusament PC Blend printing on my Core One yet but I attempted to print this model:

1kg spool holder

With mine on the satin sheet.  The first attempt failed miserably with even the small clamps warping.  I then broke out my Vision Miner Nano Polymer print adhesive, applied it to the satin sheet, and printed a beautiful model with zero warping.  Once the plate cooled to about 85C the print self-released. 

Regards,

Steve

RE: PC printing on Core One

Thank you for the information.

I actually came to a discouraging realization yesterday. My original question here was about Polymaker PC, which of course is a PC blend to make it easier to print.  At work, I'm actually hoping to print these parts in real PC because the parts we are replacing are PC.  

That's not my oversight though.  I was scanning back through the info page of the 3DXMax PC I have on order and realized that they recommend drying it at 120c for 4 hours.  How on earth am I going to find an affordable filament drier they can get anywhere near 120c? My previous research on dryers kept saying 70-80c for PC, but like so many things...the reality is a little more complex than the overly generalized discussion of things online.  70-80c is required for PC blend apparently, not real PC. 🫤

Anyway, I'll soon get to personally test real PC on my Core one because the shipment of a half roll of 3dXMax PC and a bottle of nano polymer adhesive is about to arrive at the office.  The 50-55c chamber falls short of the recommendation, and 290c for the nozzle is barely into the range of extrusion temps.  Thankfully we're in a dry season in a very dry climate here, so I'll have to🤞on the moisture side of things.  

-J

RE: PC printing on Core One

I would just follow the manufacturer's direction only. Polymaker PC does not require much drying at all, unless it has absorved water. This is their most current info on the Canadian website I see.

RE:

Posted by: @print_fandango-2

Polymaker PC does not require much drying at all, unless it has absorved water.  

Isn't that true for each and every filament? You dry them to remove water they (might) have absorbed from the environmental air. If they have not absorbed any, e.g. because they were stored fully sealed after production or because you live in a desert, there is no need to dry them.

RE:

not really no... 

The worst is Nylon, it will require a mandatory 48 hrs drying (if less than 90C) before it can be printed.... just a few hours of air exposure ruins it. I print it straight from the dryer, but if I forget to extended the dryers time, it starts to absorb water again EVEN inside the container that is partially sealed.
So if I read polymakers statement, it seems like their PC is less sensitive.