RE: PC printing on Core One
Please someone that can share your settings for Polymax PC, so I can avoid wasting filament in retraction tuning, etc.
CORE ONE, 0.4 mm 🙂
Thanks!
I’m using the standard Prusa Slicer settings for Polymaker PC max and they seem to work fine for me.
RE: PC printing on Core One
Thank you
RE:
-I have printed around 12-15 Kg of PC in my Prusa Core One Since I got it last Year. I am printing a lot of PA and PP as well, since I print functional parts most of the time.
-Polycarbonates I have used and I can 100% recommend are:
-Bambu Lab PC (also FR version)
-Prusament PC Blend
-Prusament PC Blend CF
*They all print extremely well imho, with some diferences.
-Difference is by my exp. that pure Prusa Blend has more elasticity (toughness) due to copolymerisation or additives in it compared to Bambu Lab PC, and tends to warp a little more if You do not hit highest possible stable chamber temperatures. It has super layer adhesion when printed correctly. It can be printed on Satin sheet, and with Magigoo PC adhesive. Best performance so far I got out of PP sheet, which I read about and tested recently (No doubt those additives give it less moisture absorption and better flow so it behaves a bit like PP since it sticks so well to PP sheet, I joked few days ago that they may be mixing it in a little bit xD ).
So in comparison Bambu PC is more glossy, as it seems to be more pure PC. It behaves accordingly - It is still very stiff material with strong layer adhesion, but a little less tough (It is a little bit more brittle). So far I wasn't bothered to test how much. For me it warps far less than Prusament PC Blend, close to 0%.
Works best on Satin sheet with Magigoo PC, it doesnt stick well standalone.
Prusament PC-CF is diferent story.
It is easiest to print. It is plug and play. 0% Warping, doesn't need mouse ears or brims. When I need more adhesion I use satin with magigoo pc, or PP sheet. When printing small parts, bare satin is fine.
Best results for printing all of them are preheating printer for 1 hour to soak up heat really well. Use 0% fan if there is no bridges. Use skirt etc.
I will add some photos of parts I recently tested, and my measuring equipment could't find true results, So i had to use unscientific methods to break the park (Strong jaws vice with 50cm lever and 2mm screw pitch), whilst applying force strong enough to lift up ~80Kg.
Also, I will add link to a reddit page I have recently wrote about prep and printing 5.5KW motor coupler.
Reddit link: Click here
If You have any more questions I will gladly answer!
**I think HT hotend that is near future will unlock PEI 1010 and PEKK-A plus PEKK-A CF for sure, if they allow us to go a little bit higher chamber temperatures.**
Cheers and happy printing,
RE: PC printing on Core One
I have had better experience printing PC on a Garolite G10 surface on a thick steel sheet with Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. Especially for long rectangular struts that can lift the sheet off the bed if not careful.
RE: PC printing on Core One
What type and brand of PC are You talking here?
I mentioned Polycarbonates I have had great xp with...
I don't have access to VM Nano Polymer, so I can't test that sadly.
You can go see my Reddit post, It was 100% filled part, 14hr print. 240g Behemoth of a PC Blend 😀
I have had better experience printing PC on a Garolite G10 surface on a thick steel sheet with Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. Especially for long rectangular struts that can lift the sheet off the bed if not careful.
RE:
What type and brand of PC are You talking here?
I mentioned Polycarbonates I have had great xp with...I don't have access to VM Nano Polymer, so I can't test that sadly.
You can go see my Reddit post, It was 100% filled part, 14hr print. 240g Behemoth of a PC Blend 😀
I have had better experience printing PC on a Garolite G10 surface on a thick steel sheet with Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. Especially for long rectangular struts that can lift the sheet off the bed if not careful.
I've printed about 8kg (8 spools) of PC Blend. I've also tried Polymaker EasyPC and Kexcelled. 100% infill is a lot and can cause some serious warping. For PC I usually increase the perimeters to 4 or 5 and use a 8-10% gyroid infill.
RE: PC printing on Core One
Tried AddNorth High temp PC-CF, seems very nice and easy to print so far with std prusa PCCF profile, but i havent printed anything big yet. HDT of 185degC makes it really usable. It could need a dry, i could see some stringing. But is has sat on the shelf for a long time before i tried it. Had to work through some of my rolls of prusa PCCF first 🙂
RE:
Tried AddNorth High temp PC-CF, seems very nice and easy to print so far with std prusa PCCF profile, but i havent printed anything big yet. HDT of 185degC makes it really usable. It could need a dry, i could see some stringing. But is has sat on the shelf for a long time before i tried it. Had to work through some of my rolls of prusa PCCF first 🙂
All PC filaments need to be kept dry. It's not as bad a nylon or TPU but it's close. I also pop the rolls in a dryer 6-8hrs before a print. Here is an example with Prusa PC-CF. What is interesting about the sample on the left is it was printed immediately after removing it from the vacuum sealed bag of a brand new box and on the right after drying it for 6 hrs at 80°
RE: PC printing on Core One
Tried AddNorth High temp PC-CF, seems very nice and easy to print so far with std prusa PCCF profile, but i havent printed anything big yet. HDT of 185degC makes it really usable. It could need a dry, i could see some stringing. But is has sat on the shelf for a long time before i tried it. Had to work through some of my rolls of prusa PCCF first 🙂
All PC filaments need to be kept dry. It's not as bad a nylon or TPU but it's close. I also pop the rolls in a dryer 6-8hrs before a print. Here is an example with Prusa PC-CF. What is interesting about the sample on the left is it was printed immediately after removing it from the vacuum sealed bag of a brand new box and on the right after drying it for 6 hrs at 80°
Yeah for sure a good idea to start dry, some PCs are more sensitive than others though. I find i can use my prusa PCCF for a long time between dryings (of course stored sealed), i find for example petg much worse in that sense. I try to avoid nylon for several reasons, the moisture sensitiveness is one reason, pretty annoying 🙂
RE: PC printing on Core One
Yeah for sure a good idea to start dry, some PCs are more sensitive than others though. I find i can use my prusa PCCF for a long time between dryings (of course stored sealed), i find for example petg much worse in that sense. I try to avoid nylon for several reasons, the moisture sensitiveness is one reason, pretty annoying 🙂
I went through a nylon phase. It's still great for sliding parts (not the CF or GF variants of course) and PA6 has better impact resistance than PC but ONLY if it's been water conditioned which is a PITA to deal with.