Accelerometer Set
I purchased the Accelerometer Set months ago to use with my MK4S, and it's worked quite well. My CORE One was delivered yesterday, and I would like to use the accelerometer on it, but I haven't been able to find a guide yet. The product listing does show CORE One as compatible: https://www.prusa3d.com/product/accelerometer-set/ and when going to the calibration screen on the printer itself, there is a QR code with this URL, which is currently dead: http://prusa.io/qr-core-one-iscal
Has anyone managed to figure this out?
RE: Accelerometer Set
I probably should have waited for Prusa, but I didn't, figuring it would be similar enough to the MK4S procedure.
I assume I will be able to connect the little jumper wire between the port on the Buddy board and the wifi module but I haven't gotten around to that yet (maybe this evening). In the meantime I just ran it with the wire running all the way from the board.
There is a rubber gasket covering a hole on the back that I used to feed the accelerometer wire through to get it from inside of the printer to the Buddy board. And I was able to run the calibration successfully (and in my case, it changed the values and at least one of the input shaping methods from stock).
Again though, probably best to wait for official instructions...
I purchased the Accelerometer Set months ago to use with my MK4S, and it's worked quite well. My CORE One was delivered yesterday, and I would like to use the accelerometer on it, but I haven't been able to find a guide yet. The product listing does show CORE One as compatible: https://www.prusa3d.com/product/accelerometer-set/ and when going to the calibration screen on the printer itself, there is a QR code with this URL, which is currently dead: http://prusa.io/qr-core-one-iscal
Has anyone managed to figure this out?
RE: Accelerometer Set
Since it’s a CoreXY machine now, did you keep the accelerometer on the hotend for both tests or just for the X test and connected to the bed for the Y test?
Also, being that the hotend is rotated at an angle and not perpendicular or parallel to any axis, I wonder if that could skew the results?
RE: Accelerometer Set
You don't have to move the accelerometer- the test has been updated for the CORE One so it doesn't ask.
I don't think the angle should matter either, I'd think it could gather baseline readings at the start of the test and use that to get a sensible result rather than assuming a static orientation. Just a guess though.
RE: Accelerometer Set
Good to know, I'll give it a shot, thanks!
RE:
I just performed this, mine was significantly different than the factory settings. You just have to install the short jumper by taking off the rear panel above the NFC port and the small plastic panel on the wifi module. Connect the jumper just like you see in the MK4S instructions for the accelerometer. Assemble the accelerometer the same way you'd do for the MK4S, then pop out the little rubber grommet in the back of the Core One. Fish the wire through, and plug it into the wifi card's open port.
Enter calibration without the accelerometer on the nozzle, as it may try to home, but once that's done it'll prompt you to install the accelerometer. Do so, and it will calibrate both X and Y axis by itself. After it's done, remove the accelerometer from the print head, unplug it from the wifi module, and put the rubber grommet back in.
My factory settings on my Core One were:
X: EI / 60 hz Y: EI / 50 Hz
Post calibration:
X: MZV / 43 Hz Y: ZVD / 51 Hz
Hope this helps!
RE: Accelerometer Set
My factory settings on my Core One were:
X: EI / 60 hz Y: EI / 50 HzPost calibration:
X: MZV / 43 Hz Y: ZVD / 51 HzHope this helps!
Is the change visible on the prints ? Or is it more cosmetic ? ( I assume it is visible)
RE: Accelerometer Set
I performed everything exactly as you had described. Mine also changed from the defaults you had listed to:
X: MZV / 46
Y: ZVD / 56
As far as results go, I can’t tell a massive difference. Honestly, it did reduce a lot of the resonance while printing, but other than that, the quality is the same, if not the slightest bit better.
I just performed this, mine was significantly different than the factory settings. You just have to install the short jumper by taking off the rear panel above the NFC port and the small plastic panel on the wifi module. Connect the jumper just like you see in the MK4S instructions for the accelerometer. Assemble the accelerometer the same way you'd do for the MK4S, then pop out the little rubber grommet in the back of the Core One. Fish the wire through, and plug it into the wifi card's open port.
Enter calibration without the accelerometer on the nozzle, as it may try to home, but once that's done it'll prompt you to install the accelerometer. Do so, and it will calibrate both X and Y axis by itself. After it's done, remove the accelerometer from the print head, unplug it from the wifi module, and put the rubber grommet back in.
My factory settings on my Core One were:
X: EI / 60 hz Y: EI / 50 HzPost calibration:
X: MZV / 43 Hz Y: ZVD / 51 HzHope this helps!
RE:
Quality was slightly improved on mine, it was more visible with PETG (perhaps the color of filament) than the included PLA. I'm about to adjust belt tension and swap out for the hardened nozzle and re-run after, and see how things end up. It definitely helped with some of the 'sounds' coming from the printer, too.
My factory settings on my Core One were:
X: EI / 60 hz Y: EI / 50 HzPost calibration:
X: MZV / 43 Hz Y: ZVD / 51 HzHope this helps!
Is the change visible on the prints ? Or is it more cosmetic ? ( I assume it is visible)