RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
This is the freshly dried orange pla first layer. after first layer it looks like it should. did they change something with automatic first layer in this firmware?
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
Just launched a quick 30min dual color print with 60 toolchanges. Nothing special to notice, the first layer is good as usual. I need to try with a larger surface to confirm.
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
@kachidoki
Thanks for the confirmation. I'll definitely try that spool on the core one or mk4 just to see. it may be nothing to do with firmware. the two post upgrade prints I did on those two printers yesterday had no first layer issues.
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
@ssill2
Here we are, here is the final confirmation, a 250 x 250 mm one layer sheet:
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
when this current print ends I'm going to try the same with a few brands of petg and pla and see if it's just that spool
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
when this current print ends I'm going to try the same with a few brands of petg and pla and see if it's just that spool
Hi:
If people are trying to test or evaluate quality of a print or first layer, the only way to get accurate information without questioning the status of the filament is to DRY THE FILAMENT before testing. You really want to take that variable out of the picture, so you can really see what the printer and firmware are doing, not the moisture.
Especially with PETG, I have started to see minor quality and behavior problems even after just 2 hours of exposure to room air (in a humid environ, I live near the ocean.)
Again, any type of testing, no mater if printers or computers or other technology, always requires removal of questionable variables before testing, if we want anyone to trust the results of the test.
Cheers,
Neal
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
I don't disagree. I'll see what things look like after drying. it's funny though how it seems to only be first layer. all the subsequent layers look good. it reminds me of the old days on the MK3S when you had to have steel sheet profiles! I don't miss those days at all.
when this current print ends I'm going to try the same with a few brands of petg and pla and see if it's just that spool
Hi:
If people are trying to test or evaluate quality of a print or first layer, the only way to get accurate information without questioning the status of the filament is to DRY THE FILAMENT before testing. You really want to take that variable out of the picture, so you can really see what the printer and firmware are doing, not the moisture.
Especially with PETG, I have started to see minor quality and behavior problems even after just 2 hours of exposure to room air (in a humid environ, I live near the ocean.)Again, any type of testing, no mater if printers or computers or other technology, always requires removal of questionable variables before testing, if we want anyone to trust the results of the test.
Cheers,
Neal
RE:
to DRY THE FILAMENT before testing.
Absolutely...
BTW, food for thought: filament gets brittle and difficult to handle when bone-dry (but of course works best in actual printing). So read between the lines: Do manufacturers really aim for minimum water content if it costs them extra money and leads to more bad than good reviews (assuming the typical "dialed-in" user will put it first into a drier anyway)?
RE:
Absolutely...
BTW, food for thought: filament gets brittle and difficult to handle when bone-dry (but of course works best in actual printing). So read between the lines: Do manufacturers really aim for minimum water content if it costs them extra money and leads to more bad than good reviews (assuming the typical "dialed-in" user will put it first into a drier anyway)?
Except for certain nylon types where after I remove it from the dryer I need to leave it out in the open for a short time or it prints like crap.
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
Yeah, it was definitely that filament. Overnight drying improved things. Still not great. Switched to some white PLA and the same print works flawlessly. Downside is I discovered my printdry seems to have stopped heating, or certainly not to the temp it's set to. It's a shame too, that's the second printdry I've had issues with. For now I'll have to live with the 5 sunlu dryers I bought a few years ago that only go to 55C.
I did a similar flat 1 layer print on the other two printers and no issues. Guess this hatchbox orange pla was just a red herring. I'll leave it in dryer for a few more hours today.
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
Did you measure the diameter of the filament? I have encountered a similar problem to yours before, which was always due to excessive extrusion caused by poor filament diameter tolerance. After entering the correct value in the slicer, the print went smoothly.
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
I haven't. I need to actually get a fresh set of batteries for my caliper. I've not ever had a problem with PLA requring me to fiddle with extrusion multiplier for it. PETG on the other hand I'm almost never able to use 1.0 and usually end up at like .97 or lower. When I use a new brand of PETG I expect to have to fiddle with the extrusion multiplier. I guess there's a first time for everything.
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
I haven't. I need to actually get a fresh set of batteries for my caliper. I've not ever had a problem with PLA requring me to fiddle with extrusion multiplier for it. PETG on the other hand I'm almost never able to use 1.0 and usually end up at like .97 or lower. When I use a new brand of PETG I expect to have to fiddle with the extrusion multiplier. I guess there's a first time for everything.
I run through the various OrcaSlicer calibration tests every time I get a new filament (brand or type). Wish these were built into PrusaSlicer. Also wish Prusa can implement a way to auto-calibrate filaments like the BL printers do.
For calipers, I threw away my removable battery based ones and got rechargeable instead: HARDELL Digital Caliper, Rechargeable Calipers
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
I am not referring to the extrusion multiplier, but rather to the filament diameter (the field just above it in PS). Adjusting the extrusion multiplier to resolve a diameter issue would be an indirect way of solving this problem. The slicer needs to know the exact diameter to calculate the correct amount of filament to extrude. Depending on the brand of filament, I can get spools with tolerances ranging from 1.69 mm to 1.80 mm. Unfortunately, the diameter is rarely consistent throughout the entire length of the spool. Not all manufacturers have tolerances as good as Prusament.
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
One of the big reasons I'd like to upgrade my 2nd mk4s to a core one is so that it's one less printer I have to do that sort of calibration for. As it is if I get a new brand/type of filament I have to figure out the settings for three different printers. I'm amost ready to upgrade that last MK4 now that I have tpu(92 and above) printing ok on the core one. it will simplify my life quite a bit to have just two types of printers instead of three.
Those caliper you linked is nice, I might have to get one.
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
I haven't. I need to actually get a fresh set of batteries for my caliper. I've not ever had a problem with PLA requring me to fiddle with extrusion multiplier for it. PETG on the other hand I'm almost never able to use 1.0 and usually end up at like .97 or lower. When I use a new brand of PETG I expect to have to fiddle with the extrusion multiplier. I guess there's a first time for everything.
I run through the various OrcaSlicer calibration tests every time I get a new filament (brand or type). Wish these were built into PrusaSlicer. Also wish Prusa can implement a way to auto-calibrate filaments like the BL printers do.
For calipers, I threw away my removable battery based ones and got rechargeable instead: HARDELL Digital Caliper, Rechargeable Calipers
Amazon always has listing errors. At least I hope so in this case.
Clearly it works, since Hyiger has one and likes it, but the Amazon listing
claims that it has an LR44 battery, and those are non-rechargeable Alkaline.
Probably just a (all too common) listing error on Amazon:
Brand HARDELL
Material Stainless Steel
Range 6 inches
Measurement Accuracy ±0.02 mm/0.001"
Number of Batteries 1 LR44 batteries required. 🙂
Cheers,
Neal
RE:
Amazon always has listing errors. At least I hope so in this case.
Clearly it works, since Hyiger has one and likes it, but the Amazon listing
claims that it has an LR44 battery, and those are non-rechargeable Alkaline.
Probably just a (all too common) listing error on Amazon:Brand HARDELL
Material Stainless Steel
Range 6 inches
Measurement Accuracy ±0.02 mm/0.001"
Number of Batteries 1 LR44 batteries required. 🙂Cheers,
Neal
I own 2 of them (6 and 12") and both most definitely do not have (removable) batteries. It's just a listing error.
RE: 6.4.0 Release for Prusa Core One
Unload/Load filament Z moves. Heads up - in total the bed will still move several times downward for a total of 110 mm from power on if you try to change filament! Depending on where your bed was on power off this action may cause bed to hit the bottom stops!
!t is impossible to move it up manually as Z thinks it's at 0 height and the only way out is to auto Home where real Z zero will get set,
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
Unload/Load filament Z moves. Heads up - in total the bed will still move several times downward for a total of 110 mm from power on if you try to change filament! Depending on where your bed was on power off this action may cause bed to hit the bottom stops!
!t is impossible to move it up manually as Z thinks it's at 0 height and the only way out is to auto Home where real Z zero will get set,
I believe this is by design. This prevents the head front running into a print if it was accidentally left on the bed since the last X,Y,Z position is not saved between power cycles. If you need to manually move the bed, select "Auto Home" then afterwards you can manually move it.
RE: 6.4.0-RC Firmware for Prusa CORE One
Unload/Load filament Z moves. Heads up - in total the bed will still move several times downward for a total of 110 mm from power on if you try to change filament! Depending on where your bed was on power off this action may cause bed to hit the bottom stops!
!t is impossible to move it up manually as Z thinks it's at 0 height and the only way out is to auto Home where real Z zero will get set,
I believe this is by design. This prevents the head front running into a print if it was accidentally left on the bed since the last X,Y,Z position is not saved between power cycles. If you need to manually move the bed, select "Auto Home" then afterwards you can manually move it.
Tread carefully... this is an emotional topic for Steve. 😉