RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I want do the belt measuring as before the 6.4.0-RC firmware update. As many had to do.
And yet the world moves on... Anyway, can't/don't want to help in this case.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I want do the belt measuring as before the 6.4.0-RC firmware update. As many had to do.
If you prefer not to take advice, I am happy to oblige and stop providing. Good luck with your Core One, whether real or imaginary.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I want do the belt measuring as before the 6.4.0-RC firmware update. As many had to do.
Any sensible reason why would you want that? Do you know how old system works? Do you know how NEW system works? New system is far better than old one, where you needed total silence, good phone, hold phone correctly, pull belt correctly, not too much, not too little...
Your statement sounds (in a bit exaggeratd form) like "even if we live in houses now i'd still rather live in a cave like many folks before me had to"...
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Any sensible reason why would you want that? Do you know how old system works? Do you know how NEW system works? New system is far better than old one, where you needed total silence, good phone, hold phone correctly, pull belt correctly, not too much, not too little...
Your statement sounds (in a bit exaggeratd form) like "even if we live in houses now i'd still rather live in a cave like many folks before me had to"...
I'm not convinced that @butters even owns a printer. But I digress.
As an aside, I think it took me about a week (or longer) before I figured out how to get the *#@$ audio tuner to work properly and this was with an iPhone. I was proud of myself for finally getting a routine down as to how to pluck the belts and hold the phone in just the right way. The strobe method is night and day easier.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Figured it out with the help of Prusa support, turns out the grommet screws on the y-axis pulley had come loose, which caused the homing calibration to fail as it would slip. The key to solving it was actually the nature of the last failing print, it was layer shifting, due to the slippage of the pulley.
Running a print now to confirm that it's working.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I upgraded the drivers to 6.4.0-RC, ran another Y-calibration test; it failed. Although the belt is better then originally assembled, it's almost as rigid as the X-axis but yet the test fails.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I upgraded the drivers to 6.4.0-RC, ran another Y-calibration test; it failed. Although the belt is better then originally assembled, it's almost as rigid as the X-axis but yet the test fails.
The new firmware will not magically fix the y-calibration test. The reason the test is failing is either the belt is not installed correctly or the gantry is bent or both. My guess is you are not tensioning the belts correctly.
We've asked you many times to take some images. Can you not do this? Otherwise, how can we help? At this stage you should interact with Prusa support and not on these forums.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
When you disable the motors (thru control icon) and bring the gantry all the way to the front, are both sides touching at the same time?
A) If not, loosen your belts fully and mechanically bend the side of the gantry (left or right) forward that is not touching (when the other side already is). You do this by placing a flat-blade screwdriver on the side that is touching between the gantry and the front frame, then bend the opposite side forward until you've resolved the issue. (If it is way out of alignment, you might need more space than a flat-blade screwdriver.) Once you have both sides touching, then you can tighten your belts and tune them.
B) If you had already performed A), and you tighten and tuned your belts and now again both sides of the gantry are no longer touching at the same time, then you need to balance the X and Y belt's tension until both sides of the gantry touch at the same time (this is because the X and Y belt's tension (when each is tuned to the recommended Hz) can schew the gantry out of alignment. So if this is the case, then while tuning the belts with the mobile phone app (works much better in the current version) go back and forth between tightening and loosening a 1/2 turn or turn between the X and Y tuning until the gantry touches at the same time on both left and right sides.
I mention this because my Y was also failing until I did B).
Mark
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
It's really all covered in Prusa's most recent guide -- from checking and squaring the gantry, to adjusting the belt tension symmetrically (aided by the stroboscopic tuning wizard in firmware 6.4.0), to the worst case of removing the Nextruder in case a belt has slipped from its clamp:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-core-one-l-core-one_845048
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
It's really all covered in Prusa's most recent guide -- from checking and squaring the gantry, to adjusting the belt tension symmetrically (aided by the stroboscopic tuning wizard in firmware 6.4.0), to the worst case of removing the Nextruder in case a belt has slipped from its clamp:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-core-one-l-core-one_845048
Meh... It's Butters. He's going to ignore this and post the same thing a month from now...
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Which mobile phone app ?
When you say it should be touching, how should it be touching ?
When you disable the motors (thru control icon) and bring the gantry all the way to the front, are both sides touching at the same time?
A) If not, loosen your belts fully and mechanically bend the side of the gantry (left or right) forward that is not touching (when the other side already is). You do this by placing a flat-blade screwdriver on the side that is touching between the gantry and the front frame, then bend the opposite side forward until you've resolved the issue. (If it is way out of alignment, you might need more space than a flat-blade screwdriver.) Once you have both sides touching, then you can tighten your belts and tune them.
B) If you had already performed A), and you tighten and tuned your belts and now again both sides of the gantry are no longer touching at the same time, then you need to balance the X and Y belt's tension until both sides of the gantry touch at the same time (this is because the X and Y belt's tension (when each is tuned to the recommended Hz) can schew the gantry out of alignment. So if this is the case, then while tuning the belts with the mobile phone app (works much better in the current version) go back and forth between tightening and loosening a 1/2 turn or turn between the X and Y tuning until the gantry touches at the same time on both left and right sides.
I mention this because my Y was also failing until I did B).
Mark
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Which mobile phone app ?
When you say it should be touching, how should it be touching ?
Can you just read these instructions: Adjusting belt tension
If you have the 6.4.0-RC2 firmware installed you don't need to use the phone app anymore. Just read the link please. Otherwise, you are just trolling us.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
The Prusa App for iPhone or Android that you installed on your phone by getting the app. You can also access the tuning app on your PC thru the Prusa website if you have a microphone to the input of your PC that you can locate near your gantry (I initially did this with my PC and my lapel microphone before they had improved the mobile app).
How should it be touching?
when you manually slide the X/Y gantry of your Core One forward (after disabling the motors) - when you slide it all the way forward, the front edges, left and right, should touch at the same time, the inner frame of your Core One. You can refer to the Prusa Help for a more detailed explanation:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-core-one-l-core-one_845048
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
If I finally understand, then yes I have both sides are not aligned, therefore I have to once again take apart the heat sink and tighten the belt, although if correct that is going to require a clamp. The one side is way off but just to clarify I decided to take a picture for everyone.
RE:
If I finally understand, then yes I have both sides are not aligned, therefore I have to once again take apart the heat sink and tighten the belt, although if correct that is going to require a clamp. The one side is way off but just to clarify I decided to take a picture for everyone.
Thank you for sharing the pictures, finally.
In your right-side picture, the belt comes out of the idler block (the right pair of idlers which move with the gantry) at a bizarre angle, on the left side of the picture where it continues towards the tensioner. That is not correct; the belt must run parallel to the side wall there. It looks like you have not guided it around the lower idler at all, but it runs on the plastic block?
If that is indeed the case, you will have to remove the Nextruder again, detach the lower belt on the right side and route it correctly.
But before you go to that effort, please push the gantry back half-way and take another photo of the idlers (looking at them from the front). I want to make sure that I did not misinterpret your earlier photo.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
This is the picture of the top; hopefully showing how the belts are looped.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
This is the picture of the top; hopefully showing how the belts are looped.
It's not the view I asked for, but I am afraid it confirms my suspicion. Look at the belts in the two ellipsoids in my attached, marked-up picture. On the left, they both run in parallel. On the right, they don't. That's incorrect.
Please also take a closer look at this picture from the build guide, step 5.49. Take note of the round inset especially. It shows where the belt needs to come out of the idler block -- on the other side of the idler wheel, after making a 90° pass around the wheel.
Please don't take this the wrong way; I don't mean it in a nasty way. But do you have anyone nearby who is more technically minded and could help you with the build? Inserting the belt on the wrong side of the idler is a slip that can happen. But not noticing it for days really does not bode well for your chances of successfully finishing the build. The belt teeth must be running straight around a plastic corner there! Didn't you notice that this felt very wrong when you move the gantry by hand? Doesn't it make a pretty nasty sound?
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
On the right side of the picture above; do you think that the teeth are running inside the belt based on the picture ? All the teeth are outside, as the smooth part of the belt needs to run along the wheels.
This is the picture of the top; hopefully showing how the belts are looped.
It's not the view I asked for, but I am afraid it confirms my suspicion. Look at the belts in the two ellipsoids in my attached, marked-up picture. On the left, they both run in parallel. On the right, they don't. That's incorrect.
Please also take a closer look at this picture from the build guide, step 5.49. Take note of the round inset especially. It shows where the belt needs to come out of the idler block -- on the other side of the idler wheel, after making a 90° pass around the wheel.
Please don't take this the wrong way; I don't mean it in a nasty way. But do you have anyone nearby who is more technically minded and could help you with the build? Inserting the belt on the wrong side of the idler is a slip that can happen. But not noticing it for days really does not bode well for your chances of successfully finishing the build. The belt teeth must be running straight around a plastic corner there! Didn't you notice that this felt very wrong when you move the gantry by hand? Doesn't it make a pretty nasty sound?
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
On the right side of the picture above; do you think that the teeth are running inside the belt based on the picture ? All the teeth are outside, as the smooth part of the belt needs to run along the wheels.
Here's what it needs to look like. The toothed side of the belt does run along the idler wheel; that is indeed the case in two locations in the printer.
Take a closer look at your current assembly. The belt does not run along the wheel at all; it will probably not even touch it. It runs across the edge of the black plastic mounting block. That can't be the design intent, right?
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Here are some pics of my Core One that might help show you the orientation of the X and Y belts
Looks like I need to give my Core One a good cleaning 🙂