RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Hi,
I posted some of my problems weeks ago. Since the printer was faulty upon reception on several aspects, I decided to return it.
I started the return procedure, and sent a link to pictures of the packaging procedure. It was on May 5th.
But I haven't received anything from the support since that. I sent the email again on May 8th, without any answer.
Could you tell me how long you waited before having the printer taken ?
Thanks
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I feel your pain.
Support finally promised me that they would send out the necessary box/packaging to return mine. I received that email from them on the 29th April, today is 12th May. They said they’d be back in touch soon regarding when I could expect it to arrive, but nothing since then. I emailed them again earlier today to ask for an update.
It’s starting to feel like an extremely long and drawn out process.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Hi,
I'm really sorry for you. Hope that you will receive everything soon.
Best regards
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Thanks, hope you get yours sorted out soon too.
Then I just need to try and figure out how to reclaim the almost £200 paid on import tax, for an item that has been returned. 😣
Hi,
I'm really sorry for you. Hope that you will receive everything soon.
Best regards
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Maybe someone has seen this before. There is a simple solution for this problem.
- First loosen both belts so that they do not affect the movement xy.
- On the side where the end touches the first, insert the key and on the other side push a little.
- Try the xy movement again.
- If both stops are the same, you can tighten the belts.
In my case, it solved everything and the printer works without any problems.
Genius! This did the trick for me, thank you for the clear video.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Aha, I wish I had found this thread yesterday. I did mine the old-fashioned way with my hands. The way they did it in their video is way easier than the way I did it and less likely to break something.
At any rate I had written a Reddit post about it [ https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1klogcv/core_one_xtoyaxis_alignment/ ] and one of the comments directed me to this here.
It seems to me that it should be way easier for them to ensure these brackets are actually 90 degrees than it is to handle returns / replacements / etc.
In my case my right side belt was tightened to ~125hz while the left was ~80hz in order to get the gantry square so it would calibrate before it was shipped to me.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
As I patiently await my turn in the conversion kit queue, I'm following a couple of threads to keep up with the most recent knowledge. 😛
I don't have a Core One in front of me yet, so forgive me if this is a silly question. 😋 Is there room to either replace this bracket with a stronger aluminum one, or to reinforce it somehow with a support to hold it at 90 degrees? I assume the answer is no because nobody seems to have designed one yet. I'm comfortable making a small adjustment to the OEM brackets during assembly, but I wanted to ask just in case.
-J
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I believe it's already aluminum, but it seems really soft. Honestly, I've had 3D Prints that are harder to bend by hand.
You could probably print some sort of reinforcement or even replace the bracket with something stronger. That said once it's square - it really shouldn't bend through normal use.
As I patiently await my turn in the conversion kit queue, I'm following a couple of threads to keep up with the most recent knowledge. 😛
I don't have a Core One in front of me yet, so forgive me if this is a silly question. 😋 Is there room to either replace this bracket with a stronger aluminum one, or to reinforce it somehow with a support to hold it at 90 degrees? I assume the answer is no because nobody seems to have designed one yet. I'm comfortable making a small adjustment to the OEM brackets during assembly, but I wanted to ask just in case.
-J
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I don't have a Core One in front of me yet, so forgive me if this is a silly question. 😋 Is there room to either replace this bracket with a stronger aluminum one, or to reinforce it somehow with a support to hold it at 90 degrees? I assume the answer is no because nobody seems to have designed one yet. I'm comfortable making a small adjustment to the OEM brackets during assembly, but I wanted to ask just in case.
The brackets are mild steel (magnetic), and are really quite soft -- they can easily be bent by hand, or more accurately by clamping one part in a vise and bending the other side by hand. Which is a benefit when one has to tweak them!
But I don't think the brackets need to be stiffer: When they are bent to an incorrect angle, they are obviously strong enough to impart that skew onto the X gantry. And I have not read about a Core One so far which -- once aligned correctly -- has drifted out of alignment on its own because the brackets were deformed in operation.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I don't have a Core One in front of me yet, so forgive me if this is a silly question. 😋 Is there room to either replace this bracket with a stronger aluminum one, or to reinforce it somehow with a support to hold it at 90 degrees? I assume the answer is no because nobody seems to have designed one yet. I'm comfortable making a small adjustment to the OEM brackets during assembly, but I wanted to ask just in case.
The brackets are mild steel (magnetic), and are really quite soft -- they can easily be bent by hand, or more accurately by clamping one part in a vise and bending the other side by hand. Which is a benefit when one has to tweak them!
But I don't think the brackets need to be stiffer: When they are bent to an incorrect angle, they are obviously strong enough to impart that skew onto the X gantry. And I have not read about a Core One so far which -- once aligned correctly -- has drifted out of alignment on its own because the brackets were deformed in operation.
I made this alignment three weeks ago and it is still at same position without any drift or belt difference. I think that it is one time job. Whole frame is stable.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
For what it's worth I had a Core One delivered via FedEx in such bad shape that the entire frame was un-square to the point of being visually obvious. The door handle was broken off, not a single rivet intact on the outer shell, the frame itself bent.
The gantry though - was still square [I checked, I was curious]. This was before I was aware of the issue with gantries being unsquare, I was just personally curious if the gantry itself was damaged or just the frame. I was considering telling Prusa to just send me parts and I'd swap them, but they offered a whole printer with 3 day shipping and advanced replacement [so I didn't have to wait for the damaged one to get to them before they ship one].
So yeah - I expect once it's properly squared, it should stay that way.
I didn't think to check the brackets with a magnet - I had assumed they were steel but with as easily as they bend, I thought maybe it was aluminum.
I don't have a Core One in front of me yet, so forgive me if this is a silly question. 😋 Is there room to either replace this bracket with a stronger aluminum one, or to reinforce it somehow with a support to hold it at 90 degrees? I assume the answer is no because nobody seems to have designed one yet. I'm comfortable making a small adjustment to the OEM brackets during assembly, but I wanted to ask just in case.
The brackets are mild steel (magnetic), and are really quite soft -- they can easily be bent by hand, or more accurately by clamping one part in a vise and bending the other side by hand. Which is a benefit when one has to tweak them!
But I don't think the brackets need to be stiffer: When they are bent to an incorrect angle, they are obviously strong enough to impart that skew onto the X gantry. And I have not read about a Core One so far which -- once aligned correctly -- has drifted out of alignment on its own because the brackets were deformed in operation.
I made this alignment three weeks ago and it is still at same position without any drift or belt difference. I think that it is one time job. Whole frame is stable.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Well, it's been 9 days since I last heard from Prusa support. I have since reassembled the printer and after a few coding tweaks and having to hit "ignore" to the calibrations prompt everytime I start a print, it works flawlessly.
Rather than requesting a return, I'll request an exchange. They send me a new printer, and I'll ship back the old one in the packaging the new one comes in. I'm going to ask for an assembled one as I want to make sure the calibration is working upon arrival. Not that I mind going through the assembly process again, I don't want to go through the hours of assembly only to find out I have a defective printer again.
Best case scenario, they offer a firmware update to those affected by this faulty calibration.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
after a few coding tweaks and having to hit "ignore" to the calibrations prompt everytime I start a print, it works flawlessly.
I'll elaborate a bit on this:
If I moved the gantry to the front right of the printer, once I initiated a print, the extruder would find home (after a lot of banging around) and the print would start.
Once the print was finished the extruder would move to the back right of the printer. If the next print was started from that position, the extruder gets lost and fails at its attempt to find home.
My remedy was inserting a line of code in the "Start G-code" section under the Printers tab (you have to select "Expert mode" at the top right to enable this):
Between "M84 E ; turn off E motor" and "G28 ; home all without mesh bed level", insert "G1 X242 Y-9 F10200".
It should look like this with the text in green being what you added:
M84 E ; turn off E motor
G1 X242 Y-9 F10200
G28 ; home all without mesh bed level
This will move the extruder to home at the beginning of a print from the back and the starting calibration will be quick. From there, the print should work as normal.
This doesn't work for unloading filament however. Since the operation is written into the firmware, it can't be changed and you will have to manually move the extruder all the way to the front right of the printer prior to starting the procedure.
I hope this helps someone, feel free to ask any questions you may have.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
Make sure to check belt tension first thing and if it's un-even or way far from 85hz, adjust the belts to 85 on both sides and then check to see if the X-Axis contacts both sides in the front at the same time when moved manually to the front.
If there is a gap one one side or the other - the brackets for you X-axis are bent - you'll want to loosen the belts, correct the bend, and then once it's square without tension on the belts - re-tension it evenly to 85hz.
This solved all of my problems - and I'm not saying it'll fix your current machine [I didn't read your previous posts] - but it should make sure your new one is set up for success.
I did this, and then did the input shaper calibration, and this core one is now the quietest printer I own. No rattles, no buzzing, just smooth sound.
Well, it's been 9 days since I last heard from Prusa support. I have since reassembled the printer and after a few coding tweaks and having to hit "ignore" to the calibrations prompt everytime I start a print, it works flawlessly.
Rather than requesting a return, I'll request an exchange. They send me a new printer, and I'll ship back the old one in the packaging the new one comes in. I'm going to ask for an assembled one as I want to make sure the calibration is working upon arrival. Not that I mind going through the assembly process again, I don't want to go through the hours of assembly only to find out I have a defective printer again.
Best case scenario, they offer a firmware update to those affected by this faulty calibration.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
@mikedvb
I appreciate the response and advice.
I have somewhat of a unique situation as my gantry is perfectly square front to back. I also have my belts tensioned perfectly to 85hz.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
@mikedvb
I appreciate the response and advice.
I have somewhat of a unique situation as my gantry is perfectly square front to back. I also have my belts tensioned perfectly to 85hz.
Did you try to slightly change the tension of the belts? My Core One Kit "didn't like" perfectly square 85/90 Hz, but works fine at 81/86 Hz.
So I'd suggest to either make it a tiny tiny bit not-perfect by tightening the right belt (from your perspective, when sitting in front of the printer) or slightly going tighter/looser on both belts.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I assembled a conversion kit and also had a Y calibration issue. Adjusting the belt tension precisely solved the problem and allowed the Y calibration to pass.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
I meant on your replacement. What's going on with your current one is definitely strange.
@mikedvb
I appreciate the response and advice.
I have somewhat of a unique situation as my gantry is perfectly square front to back. I also have my belts tensioned perfectly to 85hz.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
They could try how mine shipped, 125hz on the right, 80hz on the left LOL. If it's square now, it wouldn't be after that.
One thing I did notice after I got mine square and even - was that it was still sometimes taking a while to calibrate - so I went every so slightly tighter on the right belt [didn't measure it, just gave it like a 1/8" turn] and now it calibrates after two knocks every time.
I then ran the input shaper calibration [I wish they included an accelerometer in the print head, missed opportunity] and now it's almost dead silent other than the normal whirring of servo motors.
@mikedvb
I appreciate the response and advice.
I have somewhat of a unique situation as my gantry is perfectly square front to back. I also have my belts tensioned perfectly to 85hz.Did you try to slightly change the tension of the belts? My Core One Kit "didn't like" perfectly square 85/90 Hz, but works fine at 81/86 Hz.
So I'd suggest to either make it a tiny tiny bit not-perfect by tightening the right belt (from your perspective, when sitting in front of the printer) or slightly going tighter/looser on both belts.
RE: Failed Y-calibration of a new CoreOne
In my case (kit, self-built) there was a completely different problem why the Y-calibration was not correct. I had mounted the pinion on the Y motor incorrectly This is not noticeable when manually calibrating to 85Hz. Everything seems fine, but the belt doesn't mesh with the motor. You can look into the holes on the left and right of the motors from the inside. Just use the cam of your phone using flashlight to take a photo.
This is the step I did incorrectly ignoring the RED warning 😉
https://help.prusa3d.com/de/guide/5-corexy-montage_835522#843327
I have been going crazy trying to figure out why my printer won't pass the y-axis or x-axis calibrations. Gantry is square, belts tuned to 85/85, and slight variations +/- 5hz for testing. No luck at all. Round and round I've gone. I've been working my way through this thread and got to your comment. I double checked the sight windows into the x and y axis motor/pulley assemblies. My y-axis motor is fine, but on my x-axis pulley motor I'm able to see the teeth and not the set screw.... 😑 I installed it upside down. That's what I get for pushing through trying to finish a chapter at a point that I should have stopped and went to bed.
Now I have to figure out how to invert that pulley without disassembling the entire printer to get back at it.
If any one has tips or tricks to remove the x-axis motor with the least disassembly, I would greatly appreciate it!