Assembly tools
I took advantage of the Black Friday deal to order a Core One kit with the view to add the INDX set up when available. This will eventually replace my Mk4s & MMU3, also kit built, as I don't really have the room for both.
Having kept an eye on early issues that caused me cancel my original Core One order in its early days I know there are a few critical things to be aware of when building the kit such as getting the frame as square as possible. As such are there any specific assembly templates or guides to add stability while building the kit? Or am I overthinking it
RE: Assembly tools
Or am I overthinking it
Yes, definitely.
In the meantime, if you search for C1 posts here in the forum, on YouTube or on the internet for this problem, you will find good advice for the worst-case scenario.
I will also assemble my conversion kit completely first and then see how the print quality is.
Only if there is something negative about the print quality that goes in the direction you described would I be prepared to change anything.
RE:
I don't think any specific jigs, fixtures etc. are needed. Assembling the frame is quite satisfying -- the minimal screw hole tolerances and the way the profiles interlock at the edges make it quite accurate without any additional measurements or jigs. You can use a machinist's square to double-check the 90° angles if you want to be extra-diligent.
I also used a machinist's square to pre-bend the two brackets which hold the X gantry to the Y bearings to exactly 90°. But having experienced how soft the material is, I now feel comfortable with Prusa's most recent guidance -- just correct any deviations by bending the whole gantry assembly in place after it is installed. This uses the end stops of the CoreXY frame as a reference, so you won't need the square for that step.
I found am M3 tap useful, since some screw holes in the 3D printed parts were rather tight, so it was difficult to get the screw to grab a hold initially. Just a few turns with the tap -- the screw should still get a tight seat in the plastic in the thread it cuts for itself.
There have been some reports of screws shaking loose over time, and some users suggest adding Loctite during assembly. If you want to do that, get a small bottle of the blue variant. (Loctite 242 or 243, screws can be loosened again with tools.)
RE:
I found a set of Wera hex drivers to useful but I already owned a set. Much better (depending on the reach) than using the included hex wrench. As Jürgen suggested, a M3 tap was useful for where some screws self-tap into plastic which can be annoying for some of the parts. A telescopic probe with a magnet for fetching errant screws and a rubber mallet. If you already have a 3D printer (or know someone who does) then print out a screw organizer. It will help in the assembly. It took me 18hrs to build but I swear I spent half that time searching for the right packet of screws.
RE: Assembly tools
+1 on the screw organizer (sorting) box. I had repressed the memory of that part of the build experience -- spent far too much time hunting through little baglets inside larger bags...
RE: Assembly tools
Thank you.
Will definitely print a screw tray 👍
RE: Assembly tools
Don't think you really need a screw tray - I just left mine in bags and took one as and when needed.
A good set of drivers and tools would be ideal though.
Check out the build videos in my sig in the meantime 😉
RE: Assembly tools
Check out the build videos in my sig in the meantime 😉
I can promise to check them out AGAIN haha
RE: Assembly tools
my biggest gain while assembling was driven by two things:
- decent hex driver, doesn't matter if you print a handle for the one you get in the kit or you buy one, this makes a huge difference
- look at the whole step first, go through all pictures, then read the user notes of all the steps, only then start the assembly step. This saved me the most in term of avoiding later problems
RE: Assembly tools
1. SUFFICIENT SPACE for a 3-5 day build !
The build may take a while. If you have issues, such as missing parts, and have to stop for four to five days, the build needs to be in a space so that you don't have to pick it up. It needs to be in a space where HARBO thieves are not around (kids, dogs, wives, ex-wives, etc.). There are a lot of tiny parts that could go missing.
2. KEEP ORGANIZED !
The parts are all in different boxes. I left all the parts in their respective boxes and sub-packages until I needed them.
Once a screw,nut,bolt package was open, I kept them on the table and sorted by size.
3. DOUBLE CHECK YOU HAVE THE CORRECT fasteners !
Did you really need the M3n nut or the M3nN nut ! WOW. There is a lot of similarly named hardware fasteners.
I used the torx heads bolts when I needed the hex head bolts (and vice versa) a few times.
I used the Square nuts instead of the Hex nuts or Lock Nuts on occasion.
4: TOP ERRORS
1. TENSION your belts before you fire up the printer to avoid the 'head banging' issue
2. TIGHTEN the Thumb Screws on the hot end.
My hot end fell into my third large print causing a shutdown and 'overcurrent error' ! It was a pain digging the head out of the large part.