PLA supports on Prusa PC Blend
XL with enclosure installed. Can run open or closed.
Is it possible to do a pla supported Prusament PC Blend print. It's large with a lot of support. Doesn't have to be pretty. But reasonably accurate.
If not what support options are available?
What support settings are best?
Enclosure closed or open?
I'm printing a ~5 layer thick exhaust tube that has bends in it. It used 825g of pla on the prototype print (including snug supports)
RE: PLA supports on Prusa PC Blend
You're gonna get heatcreep problems from the PLA toolheads in an environment conducive for PC blend printing.
XL-5T, MK3S MMU3 || Printing with multiple nozzle-sizes: Official Guide, Unofficial(old) || PrusaSlicer Fork || Other advanced slicer tactics || TPU || HF Nozzles
RE: PLA supports on Prusa PC Blend
I havent't actually tried this, but HIPS should work and prints well at PC blend temps. Also it's super cheap and prints easy enough to use for anything.
Normally I just reduce my line width to 70-80% for PC blend supports on PC blend models, but since you need so much it's probably not an option.
RE: PLA supports on Prusa PC Blend
Wow ya learn something new every day! I've never even heard of HIPS before.
Thanks. I may give this HIPS + PC Blend a shot some time. Interesting stuff.
Ya know, i've never actually printed in ABS. I do have some ASA here I haven't tried yet.
RE: PLA supports on Prusa PC Blend
I use HIPS for ASA and ABS. It works really well, you can even support the inside of horizontal channels. Most of the time I use custom designed supports with inbuilt handles for removal, though.
You can reduce the Z contact distance to 0.1 or even 0. With ABS it sticks almost too well sometimes. I only use support materials when I need smooth print undersides or when the main material is expensive. If you play around with the contact distances and extrusion width for supports, you can easily find settings that give great results. ABS and ASA tend to leave white markings where supports are broken off. If that happens you can carefully remove them by waving a heatgun (around 120°C) over that area. I think these are zones that crystallize under pressure.
Another thing, if you use a better fan shroud that cools from all sides, you need less supports overall. Also print temp towers and then use the lowest feasible temperature for your material.
Also see here: https://toms3d.org/2024/12/06/try-these-filament-combinations-for-multi-material-and-supports/