Heated bed issue, it's not flat
I got my 2 head XL in December and since then I'm struggling with the first layer (which suppose to be good even on a log).
Last week started to talk to support, and I showed them, that the whole tile assembly is off (back right corner is about 1-1.5 milimeter lower). I created a gcode, every tile had a 60x60mm square, 0.2 layer hight. based on that, I had a very poor result: numbering the tiles from the back left to right (1,2,3,4 first row, then 5,6,7,8 and so on) I had good result on maybe 3 tiles (both surface are smooth on 10, 11, 13) ok result on 3 tiles (top surface a bit rough on 9, 12, 14), and the rest were either too close (wavy pattern) or too far (separated lines). Attached the result from tile 1,2,3,4,7,8 (back row and second row right side).
Today I got one heat bed tile to replace the right back corner tile, but the tile does not have any problem, it is straight. The whole assembly is the problem, that the tiles relative to each other are not in level...
Does anyone have any idea, how to fix this properly, because this is ridiculous. I spent lots of time to tinker my Mk3S+ to have a good first layer, had to do a nylon nut mod, but after it worked.
I'm really pissed off of that a 2.5k EUR 3d printer has this type of issues. This should be able to use a "very sensitive" sensor, and we are talking about "mikrons" based on the support.
RE: Heated bed issue, it's not flat
So first of if you ask us for help i would suggest not to use words like "pissed off".
Anyway I can see possibly reasons:
- Check that you Buildplate is really really clean and it is not enough to just wash it. When the printer probes it sometimes leaves little dimples and if you do not get rid of the these parts of the build plate will be probed wrong.
- Check That if you have a Multitool Machine if this Happens with every tool and that the tool is from the beginning correctl attached
- Check how thick you first layer is and that it isn't underextruding.
- Check that the nozzle is screwed in deep enough into the heater and that the Nozzle is in the Extruder as far as possible. It needs to be well fastened, but not too tight.
Good luck mate!
RE:
Sorry @acht, I don't really understand your issue. I'm not pissed off of you, or the forum, or even the support engineers. I'm really frustrated because of the whole situation, I'm trying to fix a 2.5k machine in the last 2 months. If you don't want to help, because you are offended the words I use, even if it's not towards you, you don't need.
Build plate is clean. I learned my lessons from my Mk3S+, I washed my sheet with soapy water, clean it frequently with alcohol. If you check the picture, you can see a variations between tiles. In my experience, this is not caused by dirty sheet or some dimples.
I recalibrated toolheads at least 3-4 times last week, I replaced 0.6 to 0.4 and back at least twice, so I'm pretty sure the nozzle is in place and firmly attached. There is no underextruding, except for some reason it's always on the same place, and during the same print some other places are overextruding and some just fine.
As I mentioned: there is an uneven levelling between the heating tiles (using steel ruler I can see it), but I would expect the steel sheet should correct it mostly, and during the probing the rest would be taken care of. This does not work too well in my experience.
Today I got one(!) tile to replace, but I fail to see, how will it solve my issue with the uneven levelling with the neighbour tiles. I had similar problem with Mk3S+ until I did the nylock mod, and since then it's perfect (I check every 3-4 month, but usually no need to fiddle).
RE: Heated bed issue, it's not flat
There are a few people in the forum with bent tile carriers in the earlier batches of printers. Did yours come with a bucket of Haribo on the bed, which seems like a possible cause?
It sounds like you might have this issue, in that case I don't see how you could align the tile properly if the bend is severe. There is minimal play in the screws which you can use to try and level it out (they ride on rubber seals, so maybe half a mm give or take). I would try it anyway, because I've read at least of one guy who had a tile with some poorly installed standoffs (these are fixed to the tile, not the bed carrier). If only one tile is affected maybe you're lucky and replacing it can actually fix it. One wrong tile can potentially throw off the levelling, depending on what logic they use (I don't know which). Possibly it can also be fixed by putting a spacer between standoff and carrier, but only if the offending standoff(s) ride too low.
It's really hard to wrap my head around it from the picture, if you still have the test prints could you align them as on the bed and post another foto? It might also be a Z axis issue, that's why I'm asking.
Can we have the support discussions in dedicated threads please?
RE: Heated bed issue, it's not flat
Mine is semi assembled, so haribo did not do too much damage. I tried to play with the screws, did not work. I got a replacement tile, replaced it, did not work. It looks like on the right side column the two middle tile a bit higher than the two at the ends.
My test print was 60x60x0.20 squares, they were placed like this:
Since I replaced the tile (back right corner), bed leveling always fails. There are 12 probing point, either 10th or 11th fails during the leveling.
RE: Heated bed issue, it's not flat
Thanks, that's a lot clearer.
Can you repeat the print but only the top left 2x2 tiles? I'd be interested to see if the levelling gets better if it probes only the (apparently) good area.
Are the results identical if you use your 2nd head for probing/printing? It might require an update to the latest stable release firmware, if yours is still stock, but probably support already prompted you to update.