SL1S Wham Bam
WHAM BAM FBS FOR SL1S 138x78
A brief story of how I got involved in this topic:
I work at a dental lab, and we received an SL1S printer. Everything was going well until it came time to clean the finished models. The original spatula is sharp as a knife, and when you (unintentionally) make sudden movements to cut the models off the supports, the spatula slips and cuts your hand. That’s exactly how I sliced open my palm. I showed the cut to the neural network, and it suggested I switch to Wham Bam flexible magnetic plates. Without checking anything, I immediately ordered three of them.
As soon as they arrived, I opened the same neural network and asked for installation instructions—and that’s when the real fun began. It started telling me about some spacers, that I needed to take apart the printer, design a replacement part, print it on another printer, and other illogical advice. I opened the official Wham Bam website and found out that there are no such plates for the SL1S at all, and the developer strongly advises against using them with this type of printer. 😂😂😂
After that, I found this thread on the forum, which plunged me into even deeper despair. https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-sl1-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/wham-bam/I also want to point out how differently people treat their equipment. I worry about micro-scratches on the screen and replace it, while other people (literally) use the printer tray as an anvil. 😂😂 It’s certainly none of my business, but it really shocked me. That’s the background. But I didn’t give up and decided to give it a try (since I already had these pads on hand), and here’s my experience:
In short, I didn’t do anything special at all, and the result surprised me.
1. First, I degreased the table and stuck the magnet on. It’s impossible to stick it on perfectly because it doesn’t fit the size. The guy from the forum I mentioned earlier as an example decided to cut it to size—he sawed, bent, and pressed it—and I think that was his main mistake, since the table surface likely has some kind of coating or finish (like on the MK4S table). I taped down the edges (flaps) that stick out with regular clear tape so they wouldn’t peel off.
2. CRITICAL POINT. DON’T DO ANYTHING STUPID. Both the neural network, online commenters, AND EVEN THE MANUAL ITSELF insist that you install some 3mm spacers. THE SL1S PRINTER DOES NOT NEED A SPACER. There is simply nowhere to put it, and there is NO REASON TO. When you perform calibration, the printer responds to the pressure sensor and then sets a new zero point.
2.1 CALIBRATION. This is the only thing you need to do, and it’s the most important part.
My calibration went perfectly, with no surprises. In fact, when you loosen the bolt at the very beginning of the calibration, your table is in a semi-free state. So there’s still a centimeter of travel left (UP), meaning there’s zero chance of hitting or pushing the build matrix.
3. Set the dimensions of the new virtual plate/table in two clicks. You can skip this step, but make sure not to place the models on the edge where there is no surface.
4. I’m running the first models. An hour later, as you can see, everything turned out perfectly. Don’t pay attention to the artifact—the hole on the side—it’s a CAD bug. The models came out perfectly. I used “Prusament Resin Flex Gingiva Mask” and the default print settings (0.1 mm, fast). Also, out of habit, before printing, I degreased the (already fresh and new) surface of the Wham Bam magnetic pad with 97% alcohol.
After a while, I ran the second batch. It turned out just as great.
That’s basically it! I didn’t do anything out of the ordinary, not even what’s written in the instructions. I just attached it and calibrated it. So I can confidently recommend this product to you. The spatula is now in the trash. I’ll keep you updated if any issues come up later. Feel free to reach out for more info—I’ll pass it on to you.
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Thank you!