SL1(S) Resin tanks  

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I would like to know that too... Both the old tank and the old platform (small prints) seems to be usable on the SL1S Speed.

RE: Conductivity

The difference in conductivity between the aluminium and the PA leads to false measurements by the resin sensor.

So it should not be a problem to use the aluminium frame in the SL1S as long as you deactivate that sensor.

Same for the build platform.

Resin sensor

Thank you for the answer.
I suspected that it was the measurement of resin levels and not the hardware that was the problem. In the SL1 -> SL1S Speed upgrade guide there is several warnings, using and mixing old an new parts (tank and platform):

"Do not use the new platform and the old version of the resin tank. And conversely. It can cause several issues"

If the only danger is running out of resin mid print, I can live with that and use the new tank+platform when printing larger models.
It would have been nice if PR told us, what exactly the problem is...

Transparency

In case nobody has noticed, transparency isn't really Prusa Research's thing.... lol

I haven't seen the SL1S tank in person, but I believe I also read that the old tank as a smaller internal volume and that there is a risk of splashing resin when used with the new platform.

As I have 4 SL1 tanks, I'd very much like to be able to keep using them when/if I upgrade to the S. If turning off the resin sensor and maybe not filling the tank to 100% allows them to still be usable, that would be nice.

VAT

what more, new resin tank uses terrible screws which you have to replace soon during the FEP exchange what is not completely understandable "upgrade" and the tank can bow when you apply a FEP completely....question is how this can affect calibrationin a way of tilt setting...if there is a way to use old more stable tank with much easier way of FEP exchange without gettin in nerves, let find it!

RE: SL1(S) Resin tanks

Looking at buying the SL1S: I like the idea of multiple sealable resin tanks, but I'm put off by the poor reviews (above, and in product comments) for the plastic tanks and -- particularly -- the self-threading screws.

To what extent is this a significant issue, to what extent just gripes from a small group of customers?   In short, how well do these tanks work? 

RE: SL1(S) Resin tanks

I believe the change to the newer composite tank in place of the previous solid aluminum was to save weight.  The older solid aluminum tank was too heavy to allow for a reliable increase in tilt platform speed.

As for how well the new composite tank works.  I have been using it for months (about a hundred prints) and haven't had any issues with it.  I have yet to replace the FEP film.

RE: SL1(S) Resin tanks

Thanks,  makes sense.

I figured it was probably safest to order one of the resin tanks to check out (and abuse) _before_ buying the actual printer.  With luck it’ll find a home.

RE: SL1(S) Resin tanks

I've only owned the newer plastic style, and in the multiple tanks that I have purchased they have all seemed ok.  I picked up a wera branded driver, the exact model is 367 HF TORX for the screws.  This is a quality driver and grips the screws really well.  It also allows you to use controlled force downward to seat the screw correctly the first time, and decent feel so you can tell when you've got it aligned correctly when re-entering previously cut threads in plastic.  If you are not aware turn gently backwards until you feel the thread rise and drop again as it seats in the previously cut thread.  The L-key included is adequate, but a better driver makes things easier. 

I'd encourage any designers if you are listening to not do foolish things like this and use proper thread locking metal inserts in the plastic.  This is an application for machine screws, not plastic screws.