New MK4S kit with MMU3 kit assembly - Really modify nextruder?
I am currently building a MK4S (could be MK4, no difference in regards to my question) and MMU3. Most of it is done besides Nextruder and MMU3 modifications for Nextruder.
In the assembly instructions I am supposed to build the MK4S Nextruder and then disassamble it again to make the MMU3 modifications. Seems pretty pointless to me and especially a complete waste of time.
Now, considerung I'm certainly not the only of Prusa's customers who purchased the MK4(S) kit together with the MMU3 kit does anyone know why I should assemble the Nextruder to just disassemble it again and build it with MMU3 modifications?
Is that required to be able to finish initial calibration of the MK4S? Or is it just the fact that Prusa didn't bother to create a separate set of instructions for all who build MK4(s) together with MMU3 initially?
I can hardly believe that if Prusa is selling fully assembled MK4S+MMU3 that in the factory they build the Nextruder and then disassemble and modify it afterwards.
So the question is, if I'm combining both instruction sets (MK4S and MMU3) and build the Nextruder including the MMU3 modifications - will that cause any issues during initial calibration?
Or do I really have to finish the MK4S without MMU3, run the initial calibration and then modify the Nextruder?
RE: New MK4S kit with MMU3 kit assembly - Really modify nextruder?
So, after being brave and finishing assembling MK4S and MMU3 without building MK4S and then disassembling parts again to modify for MMU:
It works to directly include the MMU3 modifications when building MK4S. Calibration and everything else afterwards works just fine.
So no need to waste time during assembly by following both (MK4S and MMU3) assembly instructions separate.
Only thing slightliy tricky is reading two manuals at the same time and always picking from the right one.
In case Prusa is reading here: Please make a separate chapter in the MK4S manual: Building Nextruder with MMU3.
RE:
The Nextruder is slightly different with a MMU3 setup, in the sense that the filament sensor has been removed from the Nextruder and is now up on the MMU3 at its SuperFinda, and you have a slightly different idler door mechanism. When you built the printer, the guide took you through a standalone setup in order to avoid all confusion. It's advisable to get the individual printer all setup and run off a couple of prints to make sure everything is working fine as a standalone machine. Then upgrade and add the MMU3.
If you mix both guides and try to do everything at once, not only does it add confusion, it will be more difficult to pinpoint and rectify any possible issues. ie you could be assuming you have an issue with the MMU3, when in fact it's the actual printer, or vice versa. With a fully assembled and working printer, any new issues you know have been introduced with the MMU3 add-on.
Although it seems you are more experienced anyways, remember, Prusa have to target a complete beginner with their guides so makes sense to complete one build at a time just to avoid confusion and make any troubleshooting easier.
--> MK4 - MK4S - MINI+ - Accelerometer Guide - BambuLab A1 Combo <--
RE:
Hey @iftibashir,
two comments:
1. I'm not experienced at all. I owned a Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro before where I did zero modifications/adjustments so before buying the MK4S I did not work on any 3D printer. Still I was able to build MK4S and MMU3 at the same time which should be easy for people with experience and I really doubt when you buy pre-assembled printers from Prusa that they internally build the MK4S and then undo some steps to do the MMU3 modifications. No company has money to waste and likely Prusa doesn't have either. Maybe they have different assembly manuals internally?
Do you really think that people without technical skills will buy a printer kit? I doubt it. Anyway, I was able to do it with zero experience and there were zero issues with the printer or MMU since I assembled them (besides a broken display but that's not related to the assembly) so in my opinion it's not worth spending the time building something and then undoing it again and it would be great if Prusa brought a proper manual to avoid this. But it also works with two manuals.
2. Since you wrote "the filament sensor has been removed from the Nextruder and is now up on the MMU3" I guess you never built the MMU3 modifications since this is not correct what you wrote. The filament sensor at the nextruder not removed. It is modified in a way that it doesn't detect the filament when entering at the top of the nextruder anymore but after the modifications it rather detects the filament as soon as it reaches the transport gear and upper idler bearings. This causes the idler door to move which will trigger the filament detection.
RE: New MK4S kit with MMU3 kit assembly - Really modify nextruder?
Hi Guys.
I have read these posts along with many others posts on a daily basis. Seems a vast difference of opinion and skills required to
get up and running between you two.
My situation is this, I am in the business of shopping around for a new printer for my family at Xmas and to be quite honest I am becoming more
disillusioned with the whole Prusa go around with mods, upgrades, and seems a lack of information for non engineering persons such as me.
It has got to the point that I am completely lost on what model to order, I really want at least a 250 mm x 250 mm bed, dual print, maybe gradient print.
I do not understand how Prusa can knock off about $900 for a do it yourself assembly, surely with non engineering types like me, I would be a real PITA
to try and assemble and frequently become a nuisance to call the engineering staff, even if they answered me the second round of phone calls. LOL.
Unless some real clarity is made by Prusa themselves to me that upgrades are just that, and these add on at a price are not an afterthought because of poor
decisions or engineering etc etc.
Even the shipping costs buying from Prusa who are part of the EU , and so am I living in Spain is 3 times the cost of say buying a Mizar M (Geeetech)
who have warehouses in Germany. Work that logistic out, I cannot.
Bottom line is Prusa has a good name in quality, durability, but with add ons upgrades etc etc, all so very confusing to a newbie like me, I am very tempted to jump ship and purchase from Geetech (Germany) a model that has not changed in 3 years and be somewhere in the region of $600 better off plus a 255 mm x 255 mm bed.
I try and support the EU 27 nations as much as possible, but there are limits. Every post that causes me doubts, confusions, anomalies. then these have have consequences unfortunately.
Thanks.