stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Please check out my Thingiverse submissions... I have been working on modifications to the Prusa I3 Mk3...
Fan mount, fan shroud, PS support bracket, filament guide, filament roller clip, Einsy Controller Case that supports the Z Frame and a smaller Heated Bed Cable cover -for Soldered shorter Y enclosure...
Please review and let me know what you think...
https://www.thingiverse.com/carterm2/designs
Carter
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
No support for the nylon filament strain relief in the extruder harness is a big miss; otherwise looks nice.
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
I agree with Tim on the hole for the nylon filament being missing. I also wonder why you would design it to require brass inserts? The countersunk nuts that Prusa use works quite well and installing brass inserts may go beyond what some are capable of.
Going to print the heatbed cable cover tonight.
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Thanks!
Tim... Richard,
I don't know what a "nylon filament strain relief in the extruder harness" is, although the entire point of this is to be able to print Nylon... I have been printing ABS and my layers are getting flatter and cleaner, but my goal was to get printing in Nylon (after getting ABS reliable and I feel close to this goal. (Amazon ABS)... I am also starting to work with the Octoprint Bed Leveling plugin to get the bed flatter. (using lock nuts)
You are dead right about the brass inserts.. the first rev had 13! I will revise and remove the inserts soon. (I got a little nuts about brass inserts.)
Thanks for the review...
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Rev'd the Body, removed the brass inserts... Actually just added a slot for the M3 square nuts... choice is yours...
Carter
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
The Nylon referenced in this assembly manual step and image. The filament is essential to keeping the bundle from twisting and turning and wearing the sleeve and wires inside.
Slide the NYLON filament in the hole.
Make sure the filament isn't pushing into the motor cables, which would indicate it is too long and you need to slightly unwrap the sleeve and push the filament back.
https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/8.+Electronics+assembly/1052?lang=en#s18471
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Tim,
Thanks! I will work on it...The strain reliefs definitely need attention and I completely missed on the nylon rod.
Carter
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
I have removed the case from Thingivers and Pinshape... It worked very well... my prints were never cleaner... each layer very straight... but...
some sort of whiplash would build up and cause a layer shift of epic proportions after hours into a print... I could get 6 hour prints done beautifully, but anything longer and there would be a inch long X axis shift... I tested with 2 very reliable MK3's.
I am looking into it and trying to build a version that works better, with fewer screws. Maybe the thing just needs to shake?
Carter
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Image provided to show lattest revision in progress...
Carter
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Hi Carter,
Can you consider building an einsy case version with no slots in the cover, but an angled chimney at the top and an optional vertical flue at the bottom, for those folk who want to put their prusa's in an enclosure, then the einsy case could bring in cool air from the bottom, and vent hotter air outside the case at the top
or, make the einsy lid deeper so that the whole lid can vent outside the enclosure
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Hi Carter,
Can you consider building an einsy case version with no slots in the cover, but an angled chimney at the top and an optional vertical flue at the bottom, for those folk who want to put their prusa's in an enclosure, then the einsy case could bring in cool air from the bottom, and vent hotter air outside the case at the top
or, make the einsy lid deeper so that the whole lid can vent outside the enclosure
regards Joan
That's going to be a big vent to get past the X-motor.
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
There is a reason the stock case angles the cable harnesses the way they do. It is functional and necessary. Also why the upper Nylon filament hole is essential for supporting the weight of the harness: both harnesses have large Nylon filament to keep the harness pointed the right way, up and over obstacles that will snag the cables and cause shifts.
Re: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Hi Carter,
Can you consider building an einsy case version with no slots in the cover, but an angled chimney at the top and an optional vertical flue at the bottom, for those folk who want to put their prusa's in an enclosure, then the einsy case could bring in cool air from the bottom, and vent hotter air outside the case at the top
or, make the einsy lid deeper so that the whole lid can vent outside the enclosure
regards Joan
That's going to be a big vent to get past the X-motor.
is a big vent more difficult than extending the wires?
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Joan, Folks,
I added my parts to the PrusaPrinters site...carterm2
Great idea for cooling Joan! I may create a "door or access" for that purpose. I was hoping all that was needed was a pusher fan just outside the case, to the left, and an intake at the base of the Einsy case, the cool air would cool the controller (Einsy) board and escape through the upper part of the case into the warm environment of the printer case. So far, with the limitations of my understanding, my setup has not caused any overheating of the Einsy board, but I am only using ABS. I would like to use Nylon, and PolyCarbonate, but I don't think that the bed and extruder can manage the temperatures required.
The latest case details now available at thingivers.com and PrusaPrinters... now with slightly faster and easier to print hexagonal vent pattern. and nylon support hole... it goes straight up though, so I will have to work on rotating the cable entry to an angle. It is not causing a problem yet, but I have turned off crash protection due to the layers shifts I was getting 5 hours into a long print. Also a door for MMU2 cable access.
I have removed all need for brass inserts, and made options for folks to use square or hex nuts... (Further simplification was attempted, a snap case door, screw less, but it is not reliable enough yet.
Carter
RE: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
I just subscribed to new replies... I thought I had since there was a checkmark next to it...
OOPS!
Carter
RE: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
This is a fan cooled door, getting air through a square tube from the outside of the enclosure in order to keep the Einsy board cool. I need to learn how and where to connect the fan. It should run whenever a part is being cut. Is there a connector I need to get in order to get this working with GCode?
RE: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
RE: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Posted on Prusament and Thingivers...
This has a Noctua 5v fan... I am hoping that someone can help me with adding this to the Einsy board or the Pi Zero board GPIO pins...
The goal would be to make this fan accessible, or programmable. I was thinking of adding it to the Pi Zero board and using it to program when this fan gets turned on and off. This would happen when turning on and off the Zero board.
The Shroud will likely change as it needs to get shortened and will be different for different users.
RE: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
You could probably wire the switching from Pin 9 on expansion connector P3 (pin PJ5 of the CPU), that should be available, at least on the Mk3. I think it's used for the filament sensor of the Mk3s, in which case you'd need to use pin 7 of the J19 Pi Zero connector (pin PJ3 on the CPU). But the firmware would need to be modified to control it and you'd need a MOSFET (like a BS170) to switch the fan, those pins cannot provide the required 50 mA.
RE: stiffening the frame, enclosure mods, bracket and case mod
Vojtech,
Can I use a Y connector to attach the Noctua 5v fan to the extruder fan port? See attached...
Carter