Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile  

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Just an update:
Started playing with unloading speed at the start
So far:
below 75 = filament gets stuck in extruder and cant be retracted out during color changes
Default 100
Above 120 = Stringy tips

Current settings:
First layer temp: 215c
Other layers : 200c

Advanced
unloading speed at the start: 85
Number of cooling moves: 2

Ramming settings:
Total ramming time(s): 4.00
Total rammed volume (mm^3): 28

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Following along, since I use Inland. My MMU is still several weeks out, though. 🙁

Filament can be ordered from Microcenter.com with free shipping. Amazon occasionally carries it. I wish there was a Microcenter near me.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Following along, since I use Inland. My MMU is still several weeks out, though. 🙁

Filament can be ordered from Microcenter.com with free shipping. Amazon occasionally carries it. I wish there was a Microcenter near me.

I'd call it "functional" now - Successfully printed the test sheep.

I'll continue to tweak it for better filament tips. Hopefully by the time you get your mmu2, i'll have this profile tuned better.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

10 hour print - Inland PLA

No extruder jams, No load/unloads failures

Unloading speed at the start
Yellow: 90
Peek Green: 80
Grey: 80
Blue: 80
Darker colors look less stringy??

Functional for sure if no issues during a 10 hour print, but I still want better looking tips..

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Looking good!

Have you tried any of the new Inland PLA+? I have a couple of rolls but haven't got into them yet.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

thanks for doing the science, inland is nice for the price. I look forward to changing the settings when I get my MMU.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Looking good!

Have you tried any of the new Inland PLA+? I have a couple of rolls but haven't got into them yet.

I have tried inland pla+ on my other printers, it looks better just sure. But I haven't tried it on mmu2 yet.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Disregard this if only interested in Inland PLA profile. I wanted to print a mmu clown fish with Solutech3D filament. Thought I could get by with the default prusa mmu profile, nope.
Also tried purge to infill.... Decreased printing time. But not to nice for models with light colors, infill shows thru walls (yes i tried more perimeter walls). I wouldnt care on a functional part however.

Solutech3D - White
Solutech3D - Orange
Hatchbox - True Black

Solutech3D stringed, causing it to not feed into extruder. I've played with the advanced settings alittle as you can see from the photo above. Each set of tips is an adjustment in settings. Gonna try again to print this fish and then get back to Inland.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Thanks for the inland posts, and keep us updated. I've got a bunch of MatterHackers Build series (their 'cheap' line, a bunch of colors I bought for the MMU2 at $20/kg), and it does string a bit and gave me issues with the pre-built gcode sheep. I've dropped the temp to 200 and resliced, which seems to be helping. I'm still seeing more stringing than I'd like, but I haven't had an unrecoverable error yet.

I've had three types of errors, only one causing print issues:
1) failure to unload at the MMU due to a string keeping the FINDA up (red flashy, easy fix)
2) failure to load at the MMU due to string (red flashy, easy fix)
3) failure to feed back into the extruder, as a string jams it below the extruder bearing (skipped layer, printer doesn't detect)

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Has anybody found a Slic3r option for turning off the heater during ramming? Or setting a lower temp target during ramming?

I wouldn't want to drop much, but 5 degrees or so seems like it would be a nice option to have. During unload/reload the tip would have plenty of time to get back to temp and stabilize.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

I'm using your latest settings as a starting point for my Matterhackers Build testing.

When you increased the Ramming time to 4.0s, did you leave the default curve shape? I notice it peaks between 3/3.5 and drops off. That 4s shape may be there for a good reason, or Prusa does all their work at 2.5 and the shape past there is random.

I'm leaving the shape for now, we'll see how it goes.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Has anybody found a Slic3r option for turning off the heater during ramming? Or setting a lower temp target during ramming?

I wouldn't want to drop much, but 5 degrees or so seems like it would be a nice option to have. During unload/reload the tip would have plenty of time to get back to temp and stabilize.

This is exactly what I do, plus increase the temp by 3 degrees at the start of the purge and print temp about half way through purge.

There are a couple of issues; Slic3r does not have facility to do this, so it has to be included in G-code sections and there is too much under/over shoot with a 40W heater (even with a good PID calibration.

So I switched to a 30W heater (plus sock) and slice with KISS.

Peter

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Thanks for the inland posts, and keep us updated. I've got a bunch of MatterHackers Build series (their 'cheap' line, a bunch of colors I bought for the MMU2 at $20/kg), and it does string a bit and gave me issues with the pre-built gcode sheep. I've dropped the temp to 200 and resliced, which seems to be helping. I'm still seeing more stringing than I'd like, but I haven't had an unrecoverable error yet.

I've had three types of errors, only one causing print issues:
1) failure to unload at the MMU due to a string keeping the FINDA up (red flashy, easy fix)
2) failure to load at the MMU due to string (red flashy, easy fix)
3) failure to feed back into the extruder, as a string jams it below the extruder bearing (skipped layer, printer doesn't detect)

yes #3 is a killer - this has to be caught before a layer skip or print ruined
There is github issue highlighting this and some other issues.

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/1163

PavelSindler commented 3 days ago
"Thank you for these information. We will look on it closer."

As for the filament sensor is it's unreliable, so its disabled when using mmu2. So the only way to prevent this is a well tuned, resistance free filament path + perfectly shaped tips so extruder always catchs the filament.

But there are not great profiles for every filament, and every1 isnt going to have a well tuned printer or know how to troubleshoot mmu2.

When you increased the Ramming time to 4.0s, did you leave the default curve shape? I notice it peaks between 3/3.5 and drops off. That 4s shape may be there for a good reason, or Prusa does all their work at 2.5 and the shape past there is random.
I left the graph alone. Only increased or decreased ramming time, so for.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Sadness......I thought i had Solutech3d good to go.....

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Thanks for the settings! Right now I'm having worse problems with my Prusa Silver I got half a year ago, moreso than the Inland. But I'm running both and curious to try them.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Have you tried inland red? These settings seem to work just fine for all of it except the red. Not sure what is wrong with it. It's really stringy on the tip.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

I hear red is hard to dial in. maybe something in the pigment.

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

I hear red is hard to dial in. maybe something in the pigment.

FWIW, I use filaments from 4 different manufacturers and a range of colours for each. I use the same settings for all PLA filaments.

Peter

Re: Work in progress MMU2 Inland PLA profile

Peter,

I have seen some of your settings on other posts. Is there a screen shot some where I can copy them down? I would love to give them a try.