Your experience with the MMU2S, do you need prusa heat break for it to work?
i am completely new to mmu2s hardware or slicer related stuff just figuring it out. i have a mk3s
i have been reading on this forum and others about jam/other issues with the MMU2S a lot, people are also saying that they are also having success once you dial in your settings/ hardware.
i expect mmu2s will have learning curve, so i was wondering
0) is it worth buying first of all?
1) i had read some stuff that said you have to use the prusa heat break to get the mmus2s to work due to the different design of the break, i have a E3D Titanium heat break would it work? do you use any other parts?
2) Prusa said they only support brass nozzle for mmu, i am assuming this is just a disclaimer and not a requirement? i am planning to install a tungsten nozzle
3) what are some issues that you think are important or likely to occur with mmu?
RE: Your experience with the MMU2S, do you need prusa heat break for it to work?
I have a MMU2 and it works OK, but I print mostly with PETG and models with few color changes..
Use the nickel plated brass nozzle from MicroSwiss and that works great.
When the MMU2 was first introduced I got a kit and I gave up getting it to work. Half a year ago I upgraded to MMU2S and all the latest improvements and now it works.
Cannot help with the other questions.
Have a look at my models on Printables.com 😉
RE: Your experience with the MMU2S, do you need prusa heat break for it to work?
@area51
thanks
i am assuming you are using the heat break you got from prusa specific ones
RE: Your experience with the MMU2S, do you need prusa heat break for it to work?
I have mmu2s for a year and a half. Similar to rather large portion of the owners i reached a point that i was thinking of giving up and throwing it outside the window and then going outside and running over it with a rented lorry. I did almost everything in the forums. My problem was mainly failed loads due to stringing tips. No matter of the settings on the slicer , temps up, down, retractions, ramming speeds and moves etc, the tips were always bad. And even if those settings would do half the trick with a filament the next one would be again a pita. Finally for me it was the following changes:
1. A slicer that allows for some "wiggling" in the extruder so as to "form" the strings before unloading. Like antimixes dribbling method or an older one called skin dipping.
2. The realization that ambient temperature plays , on my case anyway, an important factor. I.e. 40 degrees during summertime will give long strings . If i reduce the temp too much i get bad prints. I print mostly on PETG. And here helps point 1.
3. The new blade function of mmu2s was a big help
4. Print http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3528314 as a new selector.
5.I also made this modification. I don't know though if it did any significant difference but i find it useful since i dont use the buffer. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233579
Bottom line. Even if it works now, not as good as MK3 but fairly decent, with fewer problems, i shouldn't have to go to all this mods for it to work. Also i refrain for using it very often because for big model the printing time gets multiplied by a lot.
RE: Your experience with the MMU2S, do you need prusa heat break for it to work?
@muo
Yes I use a stock hot end with Prusa heat break.
Forgot to mention, I too use a magnetic update to PINDA - I modified the latest Prusa selector model to fit the magnet, here. It is a drop in replacement with a hole for a 6x1 mm strong magnet.
Have a look at my models on Printables.com 😉