RE: MMU2S Pre-purchase Question
Yes, this, it's just the nature of the beast which is FDM printing. That's why you want to pick the most "open" design, so that you can troubleshoot or enhance the components that don't properly work. Many like myself have printed countless mods to get the MMU2S working correctly (you can see some of mine here). While that's a chore, having that flexibility is great: it makes me know that my MK3S and MMU2S can last forever since I can maintain it myself printing replacement parts. The Palette, well, not so much.
RE: MMU2S Pre-purchase Question
got an fsytec mmu2 from china. now it works very reliable, but it was a pain in the ass to get it there.
before you even get startet with it, search and reprint following parts:
- ptfe tube holder. you will want to use some of the variants with pc4-m10 holders and push the ptfe all the way in.
- you should buy about 10 or 15 meters (depends to your setup) of PTFE tube with inner diameter of 2 mm and replace EVERY tube. yes, the one between extruder and mmu too.
- you definitly want to reprint the IR sensor tower to someone with large holes, there is one on prusaprinters with screw to slide it back and foreward. very very usefull
-you wont to definitly remove the cutting blade. that design is fucking dangerous and it does not work. you will cut yourselfe.
-you wont to print some thumbscrew adapter for the federed casing screws, and print shimps out of tpu that they can not drop.
-you should reprint the idler boy. there is a very nice design that uses a china 1 buck gear, or the remix that uses an standard bondtech gear. the original and all of the remixed will break in some time.
-there is a mod with an smd 22k resistor and an smd led for the ir sensor. definitly you want this one to see and adust your ir sensor. its a pain in teh ass and not at every pint possible to go to the prusa support menu and look if its triggered or not.
-the mod where you reprint and remount the board holder from the mmu is usefull in many cases. its an mmu2 print itselfe with difusors, you can easyliy see your mmu status leds from far away.
-there is an very nice moded selector remix with opened finda canal and magnets. actuall i personaly did not had problems with this part. that was the only part, haha... well.. AFTER i removed the blade. the blade cut my finger just in the first half hour to play with the mounted mmu2s..
so, this mods are either essential to get the mmu2s work reliable, or modify it in a way its easyer. in my opinion they should definitly done in the building proces. you cant imagine how not reliable a stock mmu2 is.
when you build an calibratet everything you very likely wont to go farther and replace the bufer, or print the mod with 10 pc4-m10 (or pc4-m6) conectors, and replace the spool holders, because they use very much place and are very loud and add a high amount of friction to your system
FRICTION is a big factor for fail. even if you think the friction is very low when you pull manualy the filament thorught the tubes. eleminate friction wherever possible, see my mod list above.
if you need help or advice feel welcome to contact me. there is also a good discord chanel, the guys helped me a lot and pointed many of the problems and mods out for me.
RE: MMU2S Pre-purchase Question
got an fsytec mmu2 from china. ....
...
so, this mods are either essential to get the mmu2s work reliable, or modify it in a way its easyer. in my opinion they should definitly done in the building proces. you cant imagine how not reliable a stock mmu2 is.
...
Original MMU2 printed parts from PR are pretty good. Without diminishing any of the mentioned mods, your review is for the fsytec mmu2 clone. The only must mod is the buffer. I still can't believe someone is using it on daily base.
Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram
RE: MMU2S Pre-purchase Question
All parts were printed on my prusa mk3s. So there is no issue about the fsytec kit. Some m3 screws, nuts, rods, bearings are not causing the general problems the mmu2s has. I highly recomend the mods for reliability. This forum is full of people strugfeling with mmu2s, either original prusa kits.
RE: MMU2S Pre-purchase Question
got an fsytec mmu2 from china. ....
...
so, this mods are either essential to get the mmu2s work reliable, or modify it in a way its easyer. in my opinion they should definitly done in the building proces. you cant imagine how not reliable a stock mmu2 is.
...Original MMU2 printed parts from PR are pretty good. Without diminishing any of the mentioned mods, your review is for the fsytec mmu2 clone. The only must mod is the buffer. I still can't believe someone is using it on daily base.
It really depends on your setup. I had to do almost every mod @pingu mentioned even with original MMU2S parts (tubes, selector, M10 fittings at every point possible, etc.). Before that I messed around for weeks with the stock setup and didn't get anywhere.
I'm still using the buffer but with the M10 passthrough plates. From what I've read, autorewind spools also have issues: spring gets loose/deformed over time and when the spool gets close to empty, it doesn't rewind reliably anymore, but it is definitely on my list of things to try; it's just a lot of hours of things to print for it. So there is no perfect solution to this, although the entire buffer design is stupid in my opinion. I'm sure the brilliant engineers at PR could have thought up a better solution; even if they had to pay a royalty fee to use VincentGroenhuis' genius autorewind design, they should have.
RE: MMU2S Pre-purchase Question
All parts were printed on my prusa mk3s. So there is no issue about the fsytec kit. Some m3 screws, nuts, rods, bearings are not causing the general problems the mmu2s has. I highly recomend the mods for reliability. This forum is full of people strugfeling with mmu2s, either original prusa kits.
I disagree, the buffer can work great. My last print was 99.2 hours long with 1204 tool changes and 0 user intervention. All through the buffer.
Like the rest of the system, friction is the enemy. The mod that lets you add festos to the entries and exits is effectively required as that removes a lot of friction. The rest is just positioning so the input and output PTFEs allow for smooth flowing filament.
As far as his list, I absolutely agree that the festo mod and IR LED mod are also important upgrades that make life so much easier.
It's possible to use the MMU as delivered with no changes so "required" might be a stretch, but many of these mods do make it much easier if you can't set things up exactly as Prusa prescribes (e.g. lack of space).
RE: MMU2S Pre-purchase Question
Another person using the buffer here - I did add the mod for festo connectors, but other than that it's sitting on the top of my Lack and was the best solution for space saving. It's a PITA to load, but once that's done it works fine. 🙂
RE: MMU2S Pre-purchase Question
Yes curently i use the original buffer too. Its attached to the wall behind the printer, with the pc4-m10 plates mod. It is okay. But there are many better and easielier to load mods, and, airtight solutions. I will print soone one of them
RE: MMU2S Pre-purchase Question
I just noticed, the Palette 2S Pro is $799 USD?! How? That's absurd. You might as well save up and get a dedicated dualstrusion printer at that point. The profit on these vs. cost to make (including any other operating and logistical expenses) must be insane. $300 was just about my max for a multi filament add-on. It's nowhere near THAT much of an improvement (if any) over the MMU2S.
In my opinion, Mosaic just wants your money (way overpriced product) and your data (cloud CANVAS app) and my guess is they will sell it off to the highest bidder in the future, just like every small company does. Everyone can be bought; it's just about naming the right price. Please note I am not biased in any way and I've had more than my share of issues with the MMU2S, but it was only $299 and gave me the ability to fix it on my own.