MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?  

RE:

My MMU3 is running on a basic mk3S
regards Joan

RE: MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?

https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu3-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/mmu3-for-mk3s-not/#post-666685  

RE: MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?

If you haven't built the MMU2 yet, Just build the MMU3....

Joan

RE:

Thank you I have placed an order for it, hopefully the install will go smoothly.

@Joan, I already installed the MMU2S.

RE: MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?

Hum, I was just about to ask this question.  I have a MMU2S in a box and was wondering about printing all the MMU3 parts and building that way or wait until I can purchase an upgrade kit but assemble the MMU2S now.

Will the present MMU2S parts fit into the MMU3 parts?

I have been keeping notes on issues with the MMU2S and was making a list of changes during the assembly and that time has come.

RE: MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?

@Robin, 

the MMU3 has a lot of new parts  And ultimately beneficial parts...
But it is largely similar to the MMU2 in function. 

1, the support legs have a space for a label across the front.-not critical

2, the lower MMU Part has a different configuration for the FEED side PTFE tubes, these now use collets to locate and retain, rather than clamping the tubes. 
there may be other changes in this part but they are not obvious.  there are a pair of indicator slots in the middle part to indicate the correct tension for the tension screws  also the front of the middle part and the front of the upper part (PCB Cover) create a retainer for the tension screws, so they don't fall out when the MMU clamshell is open, all improvements, but not critical. 

3, the Idler roller assembly, dispenses with the printed motor shaft clamp, and replaces it with an aluminium motor shaft clamp, which screws on to the end of the idler barrel. this is a distinct improvement over the printed motor shaft clamp. but if you don't over tighten the printed motor shaft clamp. it will still work fine. there is also a small silicone rubber bump stop on the new barrel, which quietens down the action of initialisation... nice to have, but not critical

4, the MMU Motors and Pulleys are all the same on MMU2 and MMU3 (In my case, I am still using two of the MMU1 motors on my MMU3)

5, the smooth rods and brass bearing tubes are the same. 

6, the MMU Controller board is the same, BUT the MMU3 kit includes a tiny daughterboard which clips into the Data socket and the power socket on the rear of the Controller board, which I believe provides a more stable 5volt supply for the MMU. Other users have added a Buck regulator, to emulate this change, or used a cell phone charger plugged into the USB Connector on the MMU. I haven't tried either of these options. 
My MMU2 worked fine without revised power   the cover for the controller board changes, to make the switches on the controller board, less accessible, because you don't need to use them in MMU3 (At least I haven't used them since I got MMU3)

7, the Selector, has changed, it now has a new cutter assembly with two pairs of blade segments, off a disposable modelling knife blade. so  the blade clamp is new as well. the selector also has additional holes in the area of the finda nose, and ball sensor area to allow filament whisps, to fall out, and there is a magnet below the ball bearing to make the finda actuation More positive. (BEWARE, some ball bearings are non magnetic) the magnet is a redundant magnet from the Mk3S filament sensor setup.  All of these items make FINDA functionality more precise, and the parts probably can be sourced from your spares bag, or the local hardware / model shop

8, ALL of the PTFE Tubes (Excluding the tube inside the extruder assembly it's self,) have been changed to 4mm x 3mm tubes to reduce friction. I Believe this makes a massive difference, on My MMU2 I was already using 4mm X 2.5mm PTFE for the same reason, prusa went a step further

9, the Buffer assembly is new, with cassettes to make loading easier. I Believe this is an improvement but I Don't use them... 

10, the NEW mk3S / Mk3S+ filament sensor chimney assembly (With the horizontal adjuster screw), is much easier to use than the old version, where you just pushed the chimney from side to side to adjust it.

I think. apart from that^^^ it's the same old MMU2.. 

then you need the Firmware for the Einsy and the MMU3... this is where a lot of the Magic is... 

And I believe you can use it with the MMU2

IF I was in the position of trying to revise MY MMU2 
I would... 
A, buy a load of 4mm x 3mm PTFE TUBE... and replace all of the MMU2 tubes with that, (I used 4mm x 2.5mm, years ago for the same reason)

B, Change the Mk3S / Mk3S+ MMU specific filament sensor chimney and bondtech idler door parts, to the MMU3 Version. 

C, attempt to find suitable blades to revise the selector cutter blades, an old Mk3S / Mk3s+ filament sensor magnet and a magnetically attracted steel ball,  and if successful, replace the selector and blade cover to accommodate the new parts.. 

D, install the new firmwares for Mk3s / Mk3S+ and MMU3

E, give the printer and MMU3, a whirl...

if it worked satisfactorily I would leave it at that, if I had power problems I would research Buck convertors or try the Cell phone charger options, (Lots of info in this forum!)

If I had time to spare, I would reprint the MMU3 specific, lower, middle and top cover, plus the PTFE retainer part at the back of the lower part. 
If i wanted the label at for the front of the MMU, I would print the support legs, and  then the label, in multicolour using the MMU2/3...  and fit them

Unless you can source the aluminium connector for the idler drum, there is probably no point printing the idler drum. 
there are more robust Idler drum design's on printables and thingiverse, which may give you an interim step between the MMU2 original Drum, and the MMU3 setup. (I never broke My MMU2 drum, so I never tried the alternatives)

e3d Online, can provide 'embedded bowden coupling clips for the MMU and Buffers
https://e3d-online.com/products/embedded-bowden-coupling-for-metal?_pos=3&_sid=a694e4587&_ss=r

I Believe Amazon and EBAY can also supply 

https://www.amazon.com/LHTHT-Coupling-Printer-Accessories-Filament/dp/B0C7QBHN9B/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Embedded+Bowden+Collet+for&sr=8-3

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394941565244?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D256503%2C257000%26meid%3D28c356b6ed4c4d33ab54f5f15d426159%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D314845122831%26itm%3D394941565244%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAuto%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p4429486.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A39494156524428c356b6ed4c4d33ab54f5f15d426159%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAABcObhgc4Nk8%252BdtAwOww4FKLaj%252FQ5qqgDlQCuqZA43WcPFUWDERCUugbbOk7XQv0JXlBfqCg2xKF3WcPghxGMFw2oSlXvfExEaMYr7I7LmrHcP6czY1wIMt0ORyKiCWt95xldincyyBx3g%252BNDW%252B%252FhWUgTaBhK6xAm%252BJIbCOMehu%252BdwFByNFP7Pp43p8qcUziIfzVXs4ewBSxHd2yH%252F9zXxj6rnYfq%252BcEmQycThBn6zIauoBZpctZmVePr8%252BN7CkL%252FYuSctMQuw9ThjDEbsu2vBPlSnw1yJKT726VRbdWatXU8PvrhqyMCl1zs5EqhvDphkO9%252BmGAFPCDAox500vMtuJUlWT5%252B7kF3ZXz8wJ2YOKonL66itsE%252B23mIXyfLhhKVFFsJIWeMh2sXmRNw5typ7NlCYOYA%252BSg9wzL7OcAFAt%252FH068b50w8noi%252Fmf3r%252B%252FCPjbF%252BHhOLMyxv5Mzd2h1V45dTLKu9cVawhnNfPkcmv2eDq%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486

ANNNNNDDDDDD.... I think,  That's all folks! 

Joan 

RE: MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?

Thank you for the detailed description.  Will have to look through it carefully.  Nice to see that there isn't any major changes that require many new parts.

The 5V issue is something I have been reading about and will take into account.

Now to set out a plan to get it running.  There are some things I would like to use the MMU for.

I noticed that there is a new selector on Printables for the MMU and will have to look at it in comparison.

MMU2S Super Upgrade (MSU) - Selector

I had ordered a bunch of tubing and fittings earlier this year but looks like I will have to order a different size.

Been looking at the spool holders from this multi-material project.  Once I get more experience.

EnragedRabbitProject

RE: MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?

Absolutely, you can upgrade your printer from MK3S to MMU2S and then to MMU3 by installing the required hardware and updating the firmware according to the manufacturer's guidelines. SoundCloud To Mp3

RE: MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?

Hello everyone,

I have ordered an upgrade from the MMU2S to MMU3S.Which parts do I need to print so that I can get started straight away when the upgrade comes?

Thank you.

RE: MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?

here is the Prusa Printables site for MMU3
https://www.printables.com/model/531604-mmu3-printable-parts

it tells you what to print. 

regards Joan

RE: MK3S to MMU2S then to MMU3 possible?

I printed these parts and they worked well.  I ordered my upgrade board and pieces from Aliexpress due to cost.  Didn't include a couple of items that are in the assembly instructions. 

May also want to look at some of the user suggested upgrades to the MMU3 that may be of interest.